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 Posted - February 21 2016 : 9:59:01 PM
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I found an old set my uncle got in the mid 70's. It still works and everything for the most part, except for one thing. The engine doesn't work for some reason. I think it may be because the rear wheels are jammed, but I have no experience with these, so it might be designed to be like that. It moves for a bit after pushing it, but then it just stops again. The two axles each have powered wheels, but only the front moves freely. Is there any way to fix this? Somebody on Reddit says it might be the gears, but i'd just like a second opinion. The circled axle is stationary. 
Edited by - billsmitherson on February 21 2016 10:00:05 PM
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 Posted - February 21 2016 : 10:15:14 PM
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The rear wheels are supposed to be like that
It might need a good cleaning and oiling
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Posted - February 21 2016 : 10:33:34 PM
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I concur, especially with your description of it moving briefly after being pushed. Get the wheels and wipers good and clean, and clean any fluff and gunk out of the works.
Feedback-hungry attention w****
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Posted - February 21 2016 : 10:35:17 PM
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Sounds like a clean & lube to me...
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Posted - February 21 2016 : 10:38:55 PM
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quote:The rear wheels are supposed to be like that
It might need a good cleaning and oiling
Originally posted by thesiding - February 21 2016 : 10:15:14 PM
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How would I clean the motor? Just undo those two screws and go to town? Sorry for dumb questions I just don't feel like messing this thing up.
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Posted - February 21 2016 : 11:08:24 PM
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Ain't no such thing as a dumb question. The rear truck (the power truck) is held in the body by
a couple of tabs. Look closely at the body above the truck and you can see the black tab ends.
VERY gently, pry the body away from the tab (use a plastic stick if possible) just under the body
where the tab shows thru. Once one side is out, the other tab on the other side will have to be
removed as well. As far as cleaning and lubing. You will want to post photos of the motor when
you get the truck off so that the better qualified members here can tell you how to dis-assemble,
clean, re-lube and re-assemble the motor/truck. Good luck.
Edited by - oldtimer52 on February 21 2016 11:10:07 PM
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Posted - February 21 2016 : 11:33:24 PM
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quote:Ain't no such thing as a dumb question. The rear truck (the power truck) is held in the body by
a couple of tabs. Look closely at the body above the truck and you can see the black tab ends.
VERY gently, pry the body away from the tab (use a plastic stick if possible) just under the body
where the tab shows thru. Once one side is out, the other tab on the other side will have to be
removed as well. As far as cleaning and lubing. You will want to post photos of the motor when
you get the truck off so that the better qualified members here can tell you how to dis-assemble,
clean, re-lube and re-assemble the motor/truck. Good luck.
Originally posted by oldtimer52Â -Â February 21 2016Â :Â 11:08:24 PM
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I see them, will update with pics later.
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Posted - February 21 2016 : 11:36:33 PM
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Here are pics of the motor. It looks clean, but i'm no expert
 
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Posted - February 22 2016 : 5:53:53 PM
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| Pictures a bit dark Gordon, but it certainly doesn't look clogged with dust from here. I'm not sure where you're at with knowledge of this stuff, but you know one side of the engine (wheels) pick up juice and the other side is ground. Cleaning gently with alcohol is good. Watch out for Q-tips loosing fibers in the motor; toothpicks can pick up fine things without leaving a mess of fiber. You might be able to find a diagram of assembly information and wiring at www.hoseeker.net . Check all the wiring (track and transformer as well) and make certain all the connections are good. Use a toothpick to do the oil if you don't have a needle and syringe; axles and armature of motor. Lookin' forward to seein' a video of this thing runnin'.
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Posted - February 22 2016 : 6:41:16 PM
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| This is an early MU2 drive. I would also remove those two screws on the bottom of the motor. . This will allow you to clean those two brass pickup wheels easier and check for blockage. Much easier to clean the brass wheels when they are removed... Good luck and welcome.
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Posted - February 22 2016 : 7:17:39 PM
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All good advice. I'll echo some of what was said earlier, make sure your track is clean as well as the wheels and pickups.
Assuming your connections and track are good, and have been verified by another working locomotive?
http://tycodepot.com/
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Posted - February 22 2016 : 10:15:59 PM
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| Thanks for all the tips, I'll try cleaning the wheels because it seemed to have a bit more get up and go today, but it keeps sticking. Also I only wish I could test another engine, unfortunately this is the only one I have, and my friend only deals with O scale. Also my knowledge is pretty basic. I just know that the brass wheels need to touch the tracks to go forward, and that's it.
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Posted - February 22 2016 : 10:22:54 PM
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Here's a pic of one of the wheels. Does this look like enough gunk to kill it? 
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Posted - February 22 2016 : 10:34:16 PM
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| That wheel is pretty dirty. I use some soft nail files that I picked up from Sprawlmart to clean my wheels and track. They have 3 or 4 gross to them. One is coarse, another is medium and the last two are fine and super fine. These last three may be labeled shape, clean and polish. I use the last two. Gets my wheels and track shiny. Be sure your track is clean too. Wahl clipper oil can be rubbed onto the track to help it stay clean.
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Posted - February 22 2016 : 10:37:35 PM
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quote:Here's a pic of one of the wheels. Does this look like enough gunk to kill it?
Originally posted by billsmitherson - February 22 2016 : 10:22:54 PM
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Yep, it sure would! As Wildecoupe said, they need to be shiny bright. Same goes for your track too.
http://tycodepot.com/
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Posted - February 22 2016 : 11:21:07 PM
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quote:
Yep, it sure would! As Wildecoupe said, they need to be shiny bright. Same goes for your track too.
Originally posted by JNXT 7707Â -Â February 22 2016Â :Â 10:37:35 PM
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OK, sweet. I'm gonna let the wheels soak in isopropyl 91% alcohol for tonight and some of tomorrow and see what that does. Thanks for all you help by the way guys, this was a really welcoming experience :) I'll post video once I have it working. My grandparents would also be thrilled to see this running again.
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Posted - February 23 2016 : 11:03:50 AM
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| You can let 'em soak, but it's elbow grease that will get it off. Not something as harsh as a file; even an eraser like the way people would polish coins with pencil erasers or a fine sandpaper. Just don't get so aggressive that you get brass dust all over the place and make gouges in the wheels. And let everything dry well after using the highest percent isopropyl alcohol.
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Posted - February 23 2016 : 12:33:23 PM
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This may be obvious, but you state that you have very limited experience. When you put the wheels back in the trucks, make sure that all the brass wheels are on the same side in each truck and that the front truck is opposite to the rear or you will short things out. Refer to your first picture - the brass wheels are on opposite sides front and rear.
Also I would inspect the gears closely. It is hard to tell from the picture, but to me, there appears to be some wear on a few of the teeth. A VERY LIGHT touch up with fine sandpaper or a fine file may not hurt the "jamming" you mentioned.
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Posted - February 23 2016 : 2:39:32 PM
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quote:You can let 'em soak, but it's elbow grease that will get it off. Not something as harsh as a file; even an eraser like the way people would polish coins with pencil erasers or a fine sandpaper. Just don't get so aggressive that you get brass dust all over the place and make gouges in the wheels. And let everything dry well after using the highest percent isopropyl alcohol.
Originally posted by Barry - February 23 2016 : 11:03:50 AM
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I don't know, I once had to deal with some gunk that was crusted on hard enough that I needed to use a file, an eraser wasn't cutting it. Sandpaper might have worked but the little file was more controllable.
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Posted - February 23 2016 : 3:57:01 PM
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| I agree with that fine file business Zelda; I have used those model filing sticks you can get at Hobby Lobby that are pretty fine and you do definitely have a bit more control.
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Posted - February 23 2016 : 4:51:35 PM
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| Letting them soak didn't do anything. So you guys were mentioning sanding. Should I use some 12k grit sandpaper, or something a little more coarse?
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Posted - February 23 2016 : 5:28:15 PM
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| At the hobby shop, or Hobby Lobby, they have these files that are essentially sandpaper glued to a straight piece . . . which goes to say, you could take some 400 grit sandpaper and glue it to a small piece of balsa (like an 1/8 inch wide) with Elmer's, just basically make a little sanding tool. If you use something as fine as 1000 grit, it will clog up before it really gets after anything. Basically, you're "polishing" rather than sanding. But still, keep away from the motor and things when you're "sanding".
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Posted - February 23 2016 : 5:28:35 PM
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I've had some good results cleaning brass wheels with Brasso
Carpe Manana!
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Posted - February 23 2016 : 5:31:06 PM
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| I'd forgotten about the Brasso Don. I remember seeing some stuff that Ken Catford cleaned up with Brasso that looked real nice.
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Posted - February 23 2016 : 6:47:44 PM
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The most effective thing I have used for polishing wheels is a brass brush mounted in a Dremel. I wouldn't use it for routine cleaning all the time, but it's great for old, heavily gunked up wheels.
http://tycodepot.com/
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Posted - February 23 2016 : 7:24:07 PM
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A good nail file might also do the trick, especially if it's a little metal one like you tend to find riveted to nail clippers. At that small size, it would be easy to maneuver it around the wheel to do the polishing.
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Posted - February 24 2016 : 10:15:48 AM
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| I'll try some 600 grit sandpaper, then, if I need to, I'll smooth it out with a higher grit. Will post more pics when I get home
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Posted - February 26 2016 : 10:38:03 PM
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The problem with a file is that it is too rigid, you can deform the running surface of the wheel with that. Super-fine sandpaper or a rotary wire brush is best for this. If the crud is " chunky", you might need some dental scrapping tools to get the high spots off, then revert to the fine sandpaper. That wheel pictured definitely had too much crud on it to run properly!
BTW, that might have been me on Reddit, I post a lot of responses in the Modeltrains sub-forum there. :) Since I do repairs at a shop. Anyway, nothing beats good old-fashioned elbow grease to remove stubborn crud buildup. Sometimes you just have to work at it to get it all off.
Oh, and the wheels are not jammed, they just won't turn because they're geared from the motor , so the motor will turn the wheels easily, but not the other way around. It's a laws of physics thing. Lionel / AC powered motors are geared differently, and you CAN spin the wheels to make the motor spin, but not in HO scale, the gearing is lower to make more torque, so you can't spin it easily the other way ( from the non-powered wheel end ). Just an FYI.... :)
Jerry, train repair tech, in VA
" When life throws you bananas...it's easy to slip up"
Edited by - AMC_Gremlin_GT on February 26 2016 10:41:43 PM
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