Tyco Collector's Forum -
Welcome to the forum.
Username:
Password:
Save Password


Register
Forgot your Password?
  Home   Forums   Events Calendar   Forum Admins & Mods   FAQ   Install Search Provider   Register
Active Topics | Active Polls | Newsletters | Member Map | Members | Online Users |
[ Active Members: 0 | Anonymous Members: 0 | Guests: 28 ]  [ Total: 28 ]  [ Newest Member: RBDallas ] Select Skin:
 All Forums
 Tyco Trains
 Tyco Maintenance & Repair Shop
 Replacing Tyco Wheels
   All users can post NEW topics in this forum
   All users can reply to topics in this forum
 Printer Friendly
Author Previous Topic: Removing couplers from Mantua-Tyco trucks? Topic Next Topic: GP20 plastic wheel replacement?  

DaCheez
Big Boy



Nose

Status: offline

 Posted - April 22 2007 :  09:30:16 AM Link directly to this topic  Show Profile  Click to see DaCheez's MSN Messenger address  Add DaCheez to Buddylist
On some of my Tyco engines and Streamliners, I've found that the metal wheels (that pick up the power) have been worn down. This is affecting the performance of the motor (in engines) and the lighting (in streamliners). Has anyone ever replaced the metal wheels and could tell me what kind to get?

-cheez

BTW, did Tyco use the same type of wheels from the 60's-80's?
 Country: Canada  ~  Posts: 3448  ~  Member Since: September 22 2006  ~  Last Visit: March 11 2026 Alert Moderator 

obtrey
Little Six

Malfunction Junction

Status: offline

 Posted - April 22 2007 :  11:02:39 AM Link directly to this reply  Show Profile  Add obtrey to Buddylist
Cheez,

It has been my experience that if the loco's hesitate or lights flicker or don't come on as they are supposed to it has usually been that the "pick-ups" are a wee bit pitted, electrolysis does that, 2 different types of metal with a current running through them creates an area that gets "dirty" or pitted. What I usually did before thinking about replacing the wheels or shafts that the lights get their connection from was to give them a light sanding with a very fine emery paper, it seemed to always work for me.
Just a suggestion before you look into replacing the wheels or shafts, try the easy one first.
What especially comes to my mind is the Tyco Pacifics mine are notorious for the front trucks getting pitted and then "skipping" and the Amtrak lighted coaches were the same way, the lights would flicker and eventually fade out. I just lightly sanded the shafts on the coaches and the front trucks on the pacifics and they ran well again for a while.

Bob

In Malfunction Junction:
When all else fails get a bigger hammer.

Edited by - obtrey on April 22 2007 11:06:19 AM
 Country: USA  ~  Posts: 182  ~  Member Since: January 20 2007  ~  Last Visit: April 05 2013 Alert Moderator  Go To Top Of Page

DaCheez
Big Boy



Nose

Status: offline

 Posted - April 22 2007 :  1:21:20 PM Link directly to this reply  Show Profile  Click to see DaCheez's MSN Messenger address  Add DaCheez to Buddylist
Hey Bob. Thanx for the tip. When you say shafts you're referring to the axles right? I sanded the middle of the axles on one of my Amtrak observations and it works much better now, but I'm not sure what to do about the streamliners from the 1960's. They have metal trucks that bring the electricity straight to a metal chassis so there is no need for anything to rub on the axles. Anyone know what to do about these?

-cheez
 Country: Canada  ~  Posts: 3448  ~  Member Since: September 22 2006  ~  Last Visit: March 11 2026 Alert Moderator  Go To Top Of Page

obtrey
Little Six

Malfunction Junction

Status: offline

 Posted - April 22 2007 :  1:41:35 PM Link directly to this reply  Show Profile  Add obtrey to Buddylist
Cheez,

Not too sure about the 60's but the theory is the same. More than likely it is pitted on the pickups somewhere. I also had to run a strip of that emery paper under the copper plate where it touches the axels (sorry) that was usually all I did to restore the electrical contact on the loco's or lighted cars and if the wheel pops off be sure to remember to put them back the same way as 1 side is insulated and if you put them back wrong you will get a dead, or direct short my son never listened and more than once I had to pop off the wheels and put them back in their proper positioning. They do build up a "carbon" coating that acts sort of like an insulator and prevents the proper elec. pick up. Other than that maybe someone else here has a different idea. I always looked for the easier way first before disassembling something. Sometimes I had to take it apart partially but I always tried the "easy" way first. Emery paper not sand paper works better and the finer the better you son't want to grind down the axel or wheel just clean them up a bit. I remember those Pacifics were stubborn to clean but with patience it always worked fine for me
Good luck

Bob

In Malfunction Junction:
When all else fails get a bigger hammer.
 Country: USA  ~  Posts: 182  ~  Member Since: January 20 2007  ~  Last Visit: April 05 2013 Alert Moderator  Go To Top Of Page
  Previous Topic: Removing couplers from Mantua-Tyco trucks? Topic Next Topic: GP20 plastic wheel replacement?  
 Printer Friendly
Jump To:
 Image Forums 2001 This page was generated in 0.22 seconds. Powered By: Snitz Forums 2000