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Posted - June 20 2015 : 3:50:41 PM
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I've found that running cars with incandescent lighting eventually overloads my power supply. You probably have, too. I just found this cool thing last week at a thrift store. Half price Sunday, again. 22 sections of 3 elements in this strip. After a ton of work removing and separating them, I put one in my B&O heavyweight coach. Works great. My question is, what colour filter would you use to make the lighting correct for this era of car? As it is, it looks more like a modern subway car. Opinions, please. Evan
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Posted - June 20 2015 : 11:34:23 PM
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That looks pretty good Evan, other than something that would maybe dim it a bit . . . or maybe the camera just picked up more light. So what do you do? Just cut off a piece and wire it to a battery? I'm ignorant on this.
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Posted - June 21 2015 : 08:48:33 AM
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quote:That looks pretty good Evan/// So what do you do? Just cut off a piece and wire it to a battery? I'm ignorant on this.
Originally posted by Barry - June 20 2015 : 11:34:23 PM
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These new LED strips come in long sections, and they have copper pads spaced every so often along the strip, so you can cut them into lengths of multiples of 3 LEDs usually, then just solder the wiring to those pads. Pretty neat, so you can customize the lengths you need. I've seen a big role of different color LED lights like this at Micro Centre stores, you get like 100 LEDs in a strip for $70. Seems like a lot, but that's less than $1 per LED. Not bad, really. Far as color? Get some tinted cylophane sheets, put over those strips, and you can tint that bluish white light to whatever color you want.
Jerry
" When life throws you bananas...it's easy to slip up"
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Posted - June 21 2015 : 6:50:00 PM
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That's what I'm after. Would the lighting in these cars be more yellow-ish? 1920's-30's incandescents. I guess I'll have to buy some bulk candies and experiment with the wrappers. I think I got a steal on the LED's at $5.00. Oops. Forgot to reply to you, Barry. I've made axle wipers from brass shimstock and mounted them on the trucks. The lights run off track power. You have to watch the polarity on the strips. The juice only flows one way. I have the right front wheels connected to the positive pad on the right end, and the left rear to the neg. pad on the left end. So you have to have a front marked on your car bottom, or a backwards car won't light up (unless you go in reverse). Maybe I should post a picture when I get home. Evan
Edited by - PGE33 on June 21 2015 7:01:07 PM
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Posted - June 21 2015 : 6:58:38 PM
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quote: I think I got a steal on the LED's at $5.00. Evan
Originally posted by PGE33Â -Â June 21 2015Â :Â 6:50:00 PM
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I'm dialing 9-1-1 now.... Great snag!
Jerry
" When life throws you bananas...it's easy to slip up"
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Posted - June 21 2015 : 7:27:52 PM
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That faint blue tint would look good for fluorescent tubes, but I don't really know when those came out. When the clerestory roofed passenger cars were state of the art, I believe the lighting would have been incandescent and therefore would have a bit of a yellowish tint. Perhaps the bulk candies should be butterscotch with yellow wrappers.
Carpe Manana!
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Posted - June 21 2015 : 8:27:06 PM
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MMMMM.....Butterscotch.
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Posted - June 21 2015 : 9:01:51 PM
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Ok PG, here is an answer. Leds come in a variety of white colors. The colors are: Bright White, Cool White and Warm White. The warm white leds offer a light that is closer to the incandescent light for that period. Since you have the bright white leds, you might try putting a larger value of resistor in the supply line to limit the amount of voltage going to the led. If you don't know how to do that, then get some clear orange type of paint (the kind used in sun catcher kits). The kits and paints can be bought at most craft stores. Put a small dab of paint on the top of each led and let it dry. You will have to hit and miss as to how many layers you'll need to get the color you are looking for.
Edited by - oldtimer52 on June 21 2015 9:03:28 PM
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Posted - June 21 2015 : 11:58:30 PM
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Thanks, Oldtimer. I know the stuff you're talking about. I hadn't thought of a clear paint-on coating. Hopefully it will stick to the silicone covering. Update to follow. Evan
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Posted - June 23 2015 : 11:54:49 AM
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You're welcome. If the paint doesn't stick, use a very fine sanding stick to lightly roughen up the led surface. That should cure that problem.
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Posted - September 29 2015 : 04:01:05 AM
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GREAT FIND!!! [cool] I don't know how far you want to go with this... I do DCC installs often. There are two things you can do, to make it even better. First, a capacitor, soldered across the + and - inputs, will prevent flickering lights on dead spots.
Also, you can now get SMD bridge rectifiers, that solder directly to the led strip, keeping the power to the lights bi-directional. That will keep your lights working in BOTH directions!!
Carmine - CEO, Engineer, and Chief Bottle Washer Pacific Belt RR, in HO Scale, Since 1975!
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Posted - September 29 2015 : 04:03:57 AM
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Here's one of mine..... the Red arrow points to the bridge rectifier. I also put a light coat of yellow paint on the LEDs.....
Carmine - CEO, Engineer, and Chief Bottle Washer Pacific Belt RR, in HO Scale, Since 1975!
Edited by - pacbelt on September 29 2015 04:05:23 AM
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