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 Posted - March 25 2015 : 9:35:57 PM
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I need help finding a part for my Riverossi Big Boy. I was running it and heard a dreaded grinding. After opening the steamer up I found the piece connecting the shaft to the motor free spinning. Where can I find one of these? Is there an alternative part I can use?
  
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Posted - March 25 2015 : 10:28:43 PM
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Tim, someone already substituted a Hobbytown universal set for the original slotted shaft. It's quite likely that the universals have a 2.4mm dia. hole, and the original owner used silicone caulk (or whatever is all over the back of the one on the gearbox) to make up the difference between it and the 2mm shaft. If so you might be able to find some vinyl electronics tubing to make up the difference, but if it's the same diameter just CA it back on.
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Posted - March 26 2015 : 10:57:07 AM
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Great advice NKP. One tip I may add here; always place the CA (super glue) inside the hole of the part being glued. Do Not place a drop on the male part. Because; when you slide the female part on the shaft the glue will roll up in front of the part and be pushed back along the shaft where it is possible for it to quickly "wick" into the bearing.
Ask me how I know this.
Randy
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Posted - March 26 2015 : 3:42:08 PM
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quote:Great advice...
Originally posted by rbturner - March 26 2015 : 10:57:07 AM
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Ditto, Randy.  Super glue in a motor bearing makes for a very bad day. 
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Posted - March 27 2015 : 12:20:53 AM
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Another solution is to get a styrene rod the same size as the motor shaft, cut a short piece in half
and use that to fill in the "keyed" part of the motor shaft. The reason the part is slipping is that the
hole is not fitting tight on the "keyed" part of the shaft. A "half-round" shaft doesn't work well with
a "full-round" hole.
If you do it right, then you will not need any kind of adhesive at all. Ergo, no possible problems
with adhesive getting into the motor bearing.
If memory serves me right (I hope I'm not at that age yet) Hobbytown conversions kits came in a
3/32" and 2mm diameter sizes.
Edited by - oldtimer52 on March 27 2015 12:27:34 AM
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Posted - March 27 2015 : 10:32:19 AM
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quote:Another solution is to get a styrene rod the same size as the motor shaft, cut a short piece in half
and use that to fill in the "keyed" part of the motor shaft. The reason the part is slipping is that the
hole is not fitting tight on the "keyed" part of the shaft. A "half-round" shaft doesn't work well with
a "full-round" hole.
If you do it right, then you will not need any kind of adhesive at all. Ergo, no possible problems
with adhesive getting into the motor bearing.
If memory serves me right (I hope I'm not at that age yet) Hobbytown conversions kits came in a
3/32" and 2mm diameter sizes.
Originally posted by oldtimer52Â -Â March 27 2015Â :Â 12:20:53 AM
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I thought of that. Unfortunately the whole hole is enlarged due to the slipping motor. I have slight play side to side on the non-flat portion of the shaft.
Your replies did give me one thought. Could I drill the hole on the part large, insert a styreen piece larger than the motor shaft, drill a hole in that for the motor shaft and then will it work? Or am I betteroff just gluing it?
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Posted - March 27 2015 : 12:13:33 PM
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Until you fill in the "keyed" part of the shaft, you'll continue to have problems. I've run across this
problem on older Mantua General locomotives that use the "keyed" shafts on the motor and
gear drive shafts. If you make the filler for the shaft and then try to use a styrene tube(fit the
key part into the tube and then glue that), drill out the hole on the socket to the outter diameter
of the tube, that might work. In essence, you would be modifying the socket into a "keyed"
socket. I will try to put together a visual instruction for you today on how to do it, if you'd like.
Edited by - oldtimer52 on March 27 2015 12:18:41 PM
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Posted - March 27 2015 : 2:49:17 PM
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quote:Until you fill in the "keyed" part of the shaft, you'll continue to have problems. I've run across this
problem on older Mantua General locomotives that use the "keyed" shafts on the motor and
gear drive shafts. If you make the filler for the shaft and then try to use a styrene tube(fit the
key part into the tube and then glue that), drill out the hole on the socket to the outter diameter
of the tube, that might work. In essence, you would be modifying the socket into a "keyed"
socket. I will try to put together a visual instruction for you today on how to do it, if you'd like.
Originally posted by oldtimer52Â -Â March 27 2015Â :Â 12:13:33 PM
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I have the idea, basically a half round added to the shaft to make it round.
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Posted - March 27 2015 : 4:37:17 PM
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I've seen aftermarket universals with a set screw. It's extra security on these half round shafts. I'm not sure who makes it. I'm sure it could be drilled and tapped.
" Heck with counting 'em rivets, TRAINS ARE FOR FUN! Not called the Mad Scientist for nothing either!"
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Posted - March 27 2015 : 5:54:00 PM
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quote:I've seen aftermarket universals with a set screw. It's extra security on these half round shafts. I'm not sure who makes it. I'm sure it could be drilled and tapped.
Originally posted by Redneck Justin - March 27 2015 : 4:37:17 PM
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I was visualizing this when I saw the half-shaft. Would be perfect if you could find one of those.
http://tycodepot.com/
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Posted - March 27 2015 : 7:29:33 PM
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A half-round added to the shaft would work, providing you get it to fit tight in the coupler. You
would need to make it a tiny bit larger than the shaft to make it fit tight. Make sure that you
only make it as long as the keyed part of the shaft or i may not fit the coupler right. Once you've got it cut and fitted, place a small amount of ca on the flat parts for additional holding.
Edited by - oldtimer52 on March 27 2015 7:34:58 PM
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Posted - March 27 2015 : 7:34:45 PM
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A universal socket with a 2mm bore will work fine on these shafts if you carefully apply some CA to hold them in place. I've done it with NWSL universal parts and never had a problem. The problem is that this style of universal was only made for 3/32" (2.4mm) dia. shafts for years, and that's why the adhesive eventually gave out.
There are a number of options. A-Line makes brass adapter sleeves that would do the trick. I would use them on both cups, since the original owner appears to have relied on what looks like hot melt to make up the diameter difference, so the other is likely to be off-center as well. If the glue is hot melt, just the heat of the motor shaft would cause it to let go.
http://www.mainlinehobby.net/product/9532/116-12053-BRASS-SLEEVES-ALL/
Or you could buy a one of the new sets for 2mm shafts that the former owner of Hobbytown put on the market a few years ago:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/271810274949
He should re-list them soon, or you could go directly through his website.
There's also the original slotted shaft, if you can find one. I may have a spare in my parts collection, but I'll need a measurement. Since both shafts are in a straight line, universals aren't necessary.
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Posted - March 27 2015 : 11:47:41 PM
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I have replaced the slotted shaft with a section of brass tubing (the ink tube from a pen) that I crimped to engage the flattened side of the motor and gear shafts. It seems a little fly-by-night, but it worked.
Carpe Manana!
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Posted - March 28 2015 : 12:43:22 AM
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That's a good fix, Shaggy. Either a pen or some K&S tubing would do the trick. Did you get any wobble or rattle out of it?
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Posted - March 28 2015 : 10:40:45 PM
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quote:Either a pen or some K&S tubing would do the trick. Did you get any wobble or rattle out of it?
Originally posted by NickelPlate759Â -Â March 28 2015Â :Â 12:43:22 AM
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I didn't have to shop for the old pen. 
It didn't wobble or rattle that I noticed. This was on a Hudson not a Big Boy and both the motor and gear shaft were in a fixed position. I've never seen the inside of the Big Boy to know if its rear gear box is fixed or if it pivots with the rear engine and frame.
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Posted - March 28 2015 : 11:31:47 PM
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The gearboxes are fixed to the frame, so it would work in the Big Boy too.
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Posted - April 01 2015 : 1:28:17 PM
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A piece of 12 gauge wire insulation makes a perfect bushing/adapter. I've used it many times to fix the same problem.
Vince
We are born naked, wet and hungry. Then things get worse.
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Posted - April 04 2015 : 4:11:38 PM
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Good news and Bad news. The good news is that using the EBay link in a prior post I was able to order a new cup for the shaft. Then using the suggestion to fill the shaft I placed it on and the Big Bow is running again.
Bad news is that I lost the nut that the front screw behind the boiler plate goes into. Anyone know what size this one is and where to get one? I have every other part except that now.
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Posted - April 04 2015 : 6:03:14 PM
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Check HOSeeker for the diagram and see if the parts list is there. Location the part
number for the nut and check the parts list for the specs on what size and thread it
requires. You might need to know what year it was made as well.
Edited by - oldtimer52 on April 04 2015 6:05:31 PM
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Posted - April 04 2015 : 11:50:50 PM
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If all else fails, you might be able to take the screw to the hardware store and start checking it against nuts, there. It'll probably be in the metric sizes.
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Posted - April 05 2015 : 4:30:16 PM
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quote:If all else fails, you might be able to take the screw to the hardware store and start checking it against nuts, there. It'll probably be in the metric sizes.
Originally posted by scsshaggy - April 04 2015 : 11:50:50 PM
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Unfortunately only big box stores are left and they do not carry anything that small. Wish the local one were still around.
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