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 Posted - February 18 2015 : 6:11:08 PM
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Win! I just won this 2-6-2 Prairie, intended for use on one of the micro-layouts I have in the works. This is the first of my final 5 planned engine purchases. "Planned" is the operative word!  I soon have to stop buying and start building with warmer weather just around the corner. I don't really like the tender, so I'll be picking up something that looks more at home in Pennsylvania, even though Reading never had a 2-6-2 like this.
~ Dave
They're ALL toys
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Posted - February 18 2015 : 7:22:21 PM
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quote:
This is the first of my final 5 planned engine purchases. "Planned" is the operative word!
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I think I've said that about 20-30 times so far
Nice loco! 
http://tycodepot.com/
Edited by - JNXT 7707 on February 18 2015 7:23:01 PM
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Posted - February 18 2015 : 8:43:12 PM
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Thanks!
Here's the tender that I picked up for east coast ops ... the original tender will be for desert ops:
~ Dave
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Posted - February 18 2015 : 11:35:05 PM
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quote:Here's the tender that I picked up for east coast ops
Originally posted by RDC1Â -Â February 18 2015Â :Â 8:43:12 PM
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That's a definite improvement. I like firing with coal way better than with oil. The oil is just so darn hard to shovel.
Seriously, I think that coal tender will look good with the engine. They are well proportioned to each other.
Carpe Manana!
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Posted - February 19 2015 : 09:42:05 AM
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I definitely look forward to seeing this beaut complete. Dang, I've gotta get one of these things.
-Steve
"A lot of modellers out there who go to these train shows see broken HO stuff and go, 'This is useless' when, in reality, they can still be used for modeling whether it's as a prop on your layout or a cool project to make something old new again."
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Posted - February 23 2015 : 10:21:50 PM
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quote:Thanks!
Here's the tender that I picked up for east coast ops ... the original tender will be for desert ops:
Originally posted by RDC1Â -Â February 18 2015Â :Â 8:43:12 PM
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Does anyone have any idea who manufactured this tender? I'm coming up with nothing.
~ Dave
~ Dave
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Posted - February 23 2015 : 11:16:26 PM
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I've seen one before...right down to the 4-40 or so straight down for the drawbar. I am thinking Penn Line....just thinking right now. Got a shot of the underside?
Dave
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Posted - February 23 2015 : 11:27:53 PM
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Lionel is another possibility. Cast corner steps, cast in coal pile, even the corner braces in the back of the deck.
Shot of the frame.
Dave
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Posted - February 24 2015 : 12:36:36 AM
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I'll get a shot of the underside tomorrow.
~ Dave
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waw47
Hudson
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Posted - February 24 2015 : 01:29:55 AM
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The tender appears to be a die cast John English model, which was later produced in plastic by Lionel.
Edited by - waw47 on February 24 2015 01:33:04 AM
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Posted - February 24 2015 : 05:59:13 AM
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John English, eh? ... I'll have to do some searching on that. Thanks!
~ Dave
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Posted - February 24 2015 : 06:05:40 AM
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waw47 is correct, and here's a couple examples right here in our forum:
http://www.tycoforums.com/tyco/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=13209
Thanks again!
~ Dave
~ Dave
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Posted - February 24 2015 : 12:25:20 PM
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A lot of that stuff passed around. I thought English, but then tried to think of cast in coal pile....and couldn't remember. But the Lionel version in Plastic I did.
To show you how much got swapped around..I have a Penn Line UP Boxcar.
From my database:
UP boxcar, brown, Road of the Streamliners, Penn Line 401. (1958 catalog) Road number 106132
Mantua shell, modified Mantua frame (for PennLine)
Bottom frame 419 Penn Line
There you have Mantua parts in a Penn Line production. Lionel, Athearn, the list goes on.
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waw47
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Posted - February 24 2015 : 4:31:27 PM
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| From 1956 forward, Mantua made box cars, gondolas and the Wilson Reefer for Penn Line.
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Posted - February 24 2015 : 7:37:51 PM
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quote:From 1956 forward, Mantua made box cars, gondolas and the Wilson Reefer for Penn Line.
Originally posted by waw47Â -Â February 24 2015Â :Â 4:31:27 PM
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I never even knew that, really. I've got to find one. 
-Steve
"A lot of modellers out there who go to these train shows see broken HO stuff and go, 'This is useless' when, in reality, they can still be used for modeling whether it's as a prop on your layout or a cool project to make something old new again."
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Posted - February 24 2015 : 8:13:37 PM
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quote:
lol I was thinking the same thing .... and the sickness continues ... and I love it .. God help me I love it!
~ Dave
~ Dave
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Posted - February 24 2015 : 8:54:06 PM
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From the reading and conversations I have had over the years...I knew they had, but that it was much later, just before they bailed. Not 1956.
Hard to tell unless you have catalogs and road numbers. The shell says MANTUA on the underside of the roof. With a Mantua-modified frame/floor that says PennLine.
Good thing is it increases the amount of stock that LOOKS like Mantua.
Dave
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Posted - February 25 2015 : 9:22:06 PM
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I'm having a hard time finding trucks for this tender, metal with brass wheels that will clear the pin that prevents the trucks from spinning 360 degrees. The LHS has a few very old MDC boxcar kits for $4. I might have to get one of the kits and rob the trucks for the tender. I could install some Kadee Bettendorf trucks that I have on the boxcar to make that a runner.
Do you guys have some suggestions?
~ Dave
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Posted - February 25 2015 : 9:28:01 PM
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Are you looking for sprung or non-sprung? One of my Varney 2-8-0's has Athearn sprung, the other what appears to be Mantua metal non-sprung with the coupler tangs cut off. Has brass wheels on one side.
Dave
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Posted - February 25 2015 : 9:49:26 PM
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I haven't decided really. Is there much of a difference in ride or performance?
~ Dave
~ Dave
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Posted - February 25 2015 : 10:10:16 PM
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Not in half zero. As long as the rucks are square. You'll know if one wheel builds up garbage and the others don't...tweak the frame to correct.
If you have a lot of current draw (big, open frame motors, big, heavy engine, long trains), I am not sure how long the springs would last with the current flowing through them (if there is not good contact between bolster and sideframes.
Mantua caboose trucks work.
Dave
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Posted - February 26 2015 : 4:01:21 PM
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One of the issues with old stuff is it was made before the nmra came out with a lot of RP's. Some of those are couplers, gauge, flanges....and some are height of truck bolster above rails and height of frame bolster. This was allegedly to allow indiscriminate swapping of trucks between manufacturer's. Older stock...not so much. I've god boxcars with either no frame bolster at all or a thin washer, others with thick frame bolsters. Sometimes you'll luck out on coupler and body height when you're done.
Dave
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Posted - February 26 2015 : 6:34:35 PM
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Looks like some trial & error is in order and I had already decided that whatever truck I try will not bear the electrical load. My home made wipers & wire will.
I'll have to look into Mantua caboose trucks.
~ Dave
~ Dave
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Posted - February 28 2015 : 12:23:29 AM
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These are Mantua tender trucks. Caboose same, just whack off the coupler tang. 
Dave
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Posted - February 28 2015 : 08:34:36 AM
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They're pretty much the same as on my 4-6-0. Here's what I ended up with from eBay. They haven't arrived yet. Old Roundhouse trucks with wipers. I'll have to modify the wipers to clear the pins on the tender casting.
~ Dave
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Posted - February 28 2015 : 2:24:18 PM
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The drivers are out of quarter  ... so, do I get the tools to remove and quater the wheels myself or do I take it to the LHS and let him do it? 
The upside is, the motor runs strong
~ Dave
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Posted - February 28 2015 : 4:14:46 PM
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Usually they don't come out of quarter on their own. Opinion.
I'd be looking at the drivers real close with a strong light and magnifying loupe for Zamac Rot. Guess based upon experience.
Dave
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Posted - February 28 2015 : 5:24:56 PM
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I don't think that they ever were in quarter. They aren't just a little bit out. They're WAY out ... almost 180 degrees apart. There's some pretty sloppy work and no sign of rot / zinc pest.
~ Dave
They're ALL toys
Edited by - RDC1 on February 28 2015 5:25:55 PM
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Posted - February 28 2015 : 5:50:19 PM
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| Okay. They come from the factory quartered. Usually they were pretty good about that. Dave
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Posted - February 28 2015 : 8:11:00 PM
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I thought about it for a while and I figure I'd be into the LHS for $20 - $40 to do the work. I can get the NWSL puller for about $30, so that's what I'll do ... then I'll have the puller and I can work on it myself and take photos/video. If it turns out to be zinc pest, I'll concede. Either way, the wheels will have to come off and be quartered or replaced and quartered.
~ Dave
~ Dave
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Posted - February 28 2015 : 9:18:47 PM
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Before you spend the money on a puller and quarterer, pull the drivers out. With light force, try to rotate in opposite directions (left hand holding left driver, right hand holding right driver). If they turn, you've either got Zamac Rot or somebody has had them off before and pressed them on wrong, catching the edge of the hole and peeling material away. If so, all is not lost. You'll need some of the heavy duty LockTite (used for things like axle bearings in automobiles) and an nmra wheel gauge, and some way to quarter them. If you have one good one, you can make a gauge of cardboard bits against the crankpins, use that to set the others. Work the wheels around to quarter, check gauge, set them aside and let the LockTite set up.
Dave
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