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 Posted - August 30 2014 : 12:01:29 AM
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Basically what the title says. First things first, here's a picture of the locomotive itself.
The light itself works just fine but when I put the shell on, I can't see the light shining at all through the little plastic light socket where the light should be shining. Here's a picture of the locomotive without the shell to help identify the problem.
Do you guys know what the problem might be? Any help is appreciated.
-Steve
"A lot of modellers out there who go to these train shows see broken HO stuff and go, 'This is useless' when, in reality, they can still be used for modeling whether it's as a prop on your layout or a cool project to make something old new again."
Edited by - kovacste000 on August 30 2014 12:01:39 AM
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 Posted - August 30 2014 : 12:27:36 AM
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May need adjusting down and back. Sounds like the shell is moving if off it's contact.
" Heck with counting 'em rivets, TRAINS ARE FOR FUN! Not called the Mad Scientist for nothing either!"
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Posted - August 30 2014 : 11:27:39 AM
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Well, make sure the headlight lens isn't filthy or obscured by something first. If you still can't see it you might want to replace it with an LED. Athearn loco headlights have always been rather dim in my experience since it's just a light shining inside the shell instead of directed through the leadlight lens, so this is a relatively common thing to do. These guys have some good information:
http://www.trainorders.com/discussion/read.php?3,2702289
--CRC
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Posted - August 30 2014 : 11:27:46 AM
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I actually put the shell at the level of where it usually goes and the light is actually lower than the shell itself. What that probably means is that the light is below the slot where it's supposed to shine which might explain why it doesn't light up while the shell is on. With that theory, I pulled the little metal slot where the light goes and brought it up to about the level of the locomotive. I'm going to test it on the track sometime today to find out if I actually fixed it or not. If that doesn't fix the problem, how do you adjust the shell or whatever part you're talking about? The shell fits just fine on the chassis and clicks in with no problems. And also, how do you clean the headlight lenses?
-Steve
"A lot of modellers out there who go to these train shows see broken HO stuff and go, 'This is useless' when, in reality, they can still be used for modeling whether it's as a prop on your layout or a cool project to make something old new again."
Edited by - kovacste000 on August 30 2014 11:42:43 AM
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Posted - October 01 2014 : 12:08:41 AM
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I have 5 versions of the S12. Mine arent bright at all so I think the engine is the issue. Try using LEDs.
If you are not having fun, you are not doing it right.
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Posted - October 01 2014 : 09:05:08 AM
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quote:I have 5 versions of the S12. Mine arent bright at all so I think the engine is the issue. Try using LEDs.
Originally posted by raysouthernpac - October 01 2014 : 12:08:41 AM
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I see. I have heard Athearn Blue Box locos don't tend to light up very well without any modifications.
-Steve
"A lot of modellers out there who go to these train shows see broken HO stuff and go, 'This is useless' when, in reality, they can still be used for modeling whether it's as a prop on your layout or a cool project to make something old new again."
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Posted - October 01 2014 : 12:14:32 PM
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I commonly remove the headlight from Athearn BB locos - they usually light up the inside of the cab more than anything else.
http://tycodepot.com/
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Posted - October 01 2014 : 6:56:17 PM
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quote:I commonly remove the headlight from Athearn BB locos - they usually light up the inside of the cab more than anything else.
Originally posted by JNXT 7707Â -Â October 01 2014Â :Â 12:14:32 PM
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I've noticed that too. I mean come on, why do we need the cab to be lit up in the older Blue Box locos? It's not like there's anything cool to see in there besides some wiring and the actual motor. 
-Steve
"A lot of modellers out there who go to these train shows see broken HO stuff and go, 'This is useless' when, in reality, they can still be used for modeling whether it's as a prop on your layout or a cool project to make something old new again."
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Posted - October 01 2014 : 11:23:57 PM
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One reason the older Athearns were so "cheap" (as in "affordable") was due to their modularity. You had just a couple basic frames using common parts, that could underpin whatever shells they felt like tooling for a basic fit.
So yeah... you got headlights that didn't always align with the shell details and even when they did, you had mobile floodlights or haunted cabs. Part of the charm, and part of the price of being affordable. It seems silly given how basic the "fixes" can be, but having specific lightpipes and custom brackets and scale bulbs and whatnot, as required for an individual model type, all adds to the cost - as has been lamented here ad infinum.
I haven't modified that specific Athearn loco model but there are a few things you can try. As long as the bronze tongue in the light fixture can contact the truck tongue, you may be able to bend or shape the bracket for better aim. A better solution would be a smaller bulb with wires, fitted to the shell behind the lens. You can modify the mechanism any number of ways - by contrast, the shell has to mostly remain as-is to be "what it's supposed to be".
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Posted - October 02 2014 : 2:13:09 PM
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The problem with the S12 is that the lens is recessed well up inside the headlight casting far away the bulb, plus the bent the top of the bracket into a visor that interferes with the light. Bending it up as far as you can without hitting the top of the shell will help a little, but when I had my first S12 I cut it off entirely and got pretty good brightness out of it. Leave enough of a stub to keep the bulb retainer in place.
The best fix is to remove the bracket and mount a bulb or LED in a piece of brass tubing right behind the lens.
The Tyco Depot
Edited by - NickelPlate759 on October 02 2014 2:16:58 PM
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Posted - October 02 2014 : 7:40:32 PM
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quote:The problem with the S12 is that the lens is recessed well up inside the headlight casting far away the bulb, plus the bent the top of the bracket into a visor that interferes with the light. Bending it up as far as you can without hitting the top of the shell will help a little, but when I had my first S12 I cut it off entirely and got pretty good brightness out of it. Leave enough of a stub to keep the bulb retainer in place.
The best fix is to remove the bracket and mount a bulb or LED in a piece of brass tubing right behind the lens.
Originally posted by NickelPlate759Â -Â October 02 2014Â :Â 2:13:09 PM
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Other than that, it's still not a bad locomotive. I mean, come on, it's Athearn. 
-Steve
"A lot of modellers out there who go to these train shows see broken HO stuff and go, 'This is useless' when, in reality, they can still be used for modeling whether it's as a prop on your layout or a cool project to make something old new again."
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