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 Posted - April 12 2014 : 1:26:53 PM
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I recently purchased a Casey Jones ten-wheeler for $40 at the Train Shack. When I first tested it in the store, it was a rather jerky runner. What I found out was that one of the rear drivers had loosened from the axle, and I seem to have no way of putting it back together since the driver's axle hole appears to have a larger gouged hole than the axle. Has anyone had this problem before, and if they have, how did you fix it? I'm honestly close to giving up repairing this engine.
"And it will all be surrounded by a train"
- Walt Disney
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Posted - April 12 2014 : 6:08:10 PM
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| I've found it twice in the past on different engines. Both times I fixed them with JB Weld, watching very carefully to make sure they were properly quartered before curing.
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Posted - April 12 2014 : 10:34:55 PM
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quote:I've found it twice in the past on different engines. Both times I fixed them with JB Weld, watching very carefully to make sure they were properly quartered before curing.
Originally posted by shaygetz - April 12 2014 : 6:08:10 PM
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JB Weld? I think I'll try that. I hope it dries clean.
"And it will all be surrounded by a train"
- Walt Disney
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Posted - April 12 2014 : 11:24:48 PM
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Another method I've used is to run layers of CA around the inside of the axle hole until the ID is small enough to grip the axle. It inevitably ends up too small, so ream it with a needle file for an exact fit, quarter and true it and fix it in place with a drop of CA on the backside of the wheel. Strip the parts of oil and dirt with alcohol first, of course.
I find it to be stronger and neater than epoxy, especially if you use Zap. It doesn't hurt to put a drop on each axle for safe measure.
The Tyco Depot
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Posted - April 13 2014 : 12:04:56 AM
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quote:
JB Weld? I think I'll try that. I hope it dries clean.
Originally posted by ReymondSt.James - April 12 2014 : 10:34:55 PM
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If you're careful, you won't even notice...
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Posted - April 13 2014 : 12:26:44 AM
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quote: quote:
JB Weld? I think I'll try that. I hope it dries clean.
Originally posted by ReymondSt.James - April 12 2014 : 10:34:55 PM
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If you're careful, you won't even notice...
Originally posted by shaygetz - April 13 2014 : 12:04:56 AM
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I heartily applaud you sir, and will go out to purchase some JB Weld tomorrow!
"And it will all be surrounded by a train"
- Walt Disney
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Posted - April 13 2014 : 3:45:52 PM
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If the wheel is loose enough to wobble, I recommend the CA method. It allows you to quickly fill in for the ground out plastic for a good friction fit that allows you to true the wheel, adjust the quartering, and even test run it before committing. I used to use epoxy, but not anymore, especially with RR plastic drivers.
The spokes are fragile, so be careful. If you have to apply pressure to the wheels, press only on the hubs.
The Tyco Depot
Edited by - NickelPlate759 on April 13 2014 5:13:44 PM
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Posted - April 15 2014 : 12:40:34 PM
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OK, seems the JB Weld worked and is actually holding the drive wheel decently, all I have to do now is paint it black. The current issue that I'm now dealing with is the shot motor wiring, since there's a (facing from locomotive front looking back) left wire that's suppose to be soldered onto a brass ring surrounding the screwhole between the rear and middle drivers and another wire leading into a small pit above the tender connection hook. Any ideas on how to get the motor running right or do I have to do a full rewiring?
"And it will all be surrounded by a train"
- Walt Disney
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Posted - April 18 2014 : 11:37:37 PM
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I don't recommend it if you don't know how to solder. If you do feel comfortable enough with an iron, clamp an alligator clip to the brass collar where the lug is mounted to act as a heat sink, and apply heat only as long as necessary to re-solder the wire to the lug. Prolonged heat will melt the plastic.
The Tyco Depot
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