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 Posted - February 19 2014 : 5:35:40 PM
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My Tyco Broadway trolley goes really slow and really choppy when going forward, then when I put it in reverse, it runs fast and smoothly. What's up with it? I tell you, that thing is an enigma.
-Steve
"A lot of modellers out there who go to these train shows see broken HO stuff and go, 'This is useless' when, in reality, they can still be used for modeling whether it's as a prop on your layout or a cool project to make something old new again."
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 Posted - February 19 2014 : 7:28:58 PM
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typical Tyco motors  Try abit of lube
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Posted - February 19 2014 : 11:02:22 PM
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quote:typical Tyco motors Try abit of lube
Originally posted by microbusss - February 19 2014 : 7:28:58 PM
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I have heard of these trains that over time degrade in performance in whatever direction you put it in while it runs better the other way. Is my trolley one of those locomotives? If so (or not) then is there such an engine that has that?
-Steve
"A lot of modellers out there who go to these train shows see broken HO stuff and go, 'This is useless' when, in reality, they can still be used for modeling whether it's as a prop on your layout or a cool project to make something old new again."
Edited by - kovacste000 on February 19 2014 11:46:51 PM
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Posted - February 19 2014 : 11:47:45 PM
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quote:typical Tyco motors Try abit of lube
Originally posted by microbusss - February 19 2014 : 7:28:58 PM
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Sorry. Forgot to ask. What type of lube would you recommend using for it?
-Steve
"A lot of modellers out there who go to these train shows see broken HO stuff and go, 'This is useless' when, in reality, they can still be used for modeling whether it's as a prop on your layout or a cool project to make something old new again."
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Posted - February 20 2014 : 3:57:53 PM
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You can either buy speciality lube at the hobby shop, or I just use white lithium grease on any axle/gears on HO engines, I've never had a problem using that. Compatible with all plastics that I've ever used it on. Oils are different you don't want to use automotive or general use oils that are petroleum based, as some may attack vintage plastic engines ( from 30+ years ago ). But for grease, I just use plain ol' white lithium on gears.
Jerry in VA
" When life throws you bananas...it's easy to slip up"
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Posted - February 23 2014 : 02:02:41 AM
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| LaBelle #108! I can't tell you the value of this lubrication! It's worth it's weight in gold, and more! I pick up Tyco/Mantua locos, especially the steam variety, that don't run or barely run, for next to nothing. As soon as I get these bargain deals on the test bench, I put a little of this liquid gold into the motor bushings, and just a tad on the motor brushes, and the "left for dead" engine starts to come back to life! After bench running for a few minutes, the loco should free up rather nicely! In extreme cases of neglect, a full dis-assembly will be required, but these cases are few and far between. Electrical contact cleaner works great for cleaning out a gummed-up motor, but be careful to avoid subjecting any plastic parts to prolonged exposure to the chemical. (Spray out the parts! Do not soak the parts in the solution!) I have run into one or maybe two motors that the cleaning and lubing did not dramatically improve the performance of the locomotive! Of course, this is my experience with the earlier Red Box Era mechanisms. The Pancake style motors of the Hong Kong manufactured Tyco products are a lost cause. They are just like cars these days; they are throw away items!
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Posted - February 23 2014 : 10:34:27 AM
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quote:LaBelle #108! I can't tell you the value of this lubrication! It's worth it's weight in gold, and more! I pick up Tyco/Mantua locos, especially the steam variety, that don't run or barely run, for next to nothing. As soon as I get these bargain deals on the test bench, I put a little of this liquid gold into the motor bushings, and just a tad on the motor brushes, and the "left for dead" engine starts to come back to life! After bench running for a few minutes, the loco should free up rather nicely! In extreme cases of neglect, a full dis-assembly will be required, but these cases are few and far between. Electrical contact cleaner works great for cleaning out a gummed-up motor, but be careful to avoid subjecting any plastic parts to prolonged exposure to the chemical. (Spray out the parts! Do not soak the parts in the solution!) I have run into one or maybe two motors that the cleaning and lubing did not dramatically improve the performance of the locomotive! Of course, this is my experience with the earlier Red Box Era mechanisms. The Pancake style motors of the Hong Kong manufactured Tyco products are a lost cause. They are just like cars these days; they are throw away items!
Originally posted by vbco1964Â -Â February 23 2014Â :Â 02:02:41 AM
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My trolley has one of those pancake motors but I still want to get it work good for some reason.I have also seen Tyco Mantua products and I have to say, they are much better looking products and a lot of them that I've seen do in fact run. But the trolley is a brown box era locomotive.So does that mean LaBelle #108 won't work with brown box engines?
-Steve
"A lot of modellers out there who go to these train shows see broken HO stuff and go, 'This is useless' when, in reality, they can still be used for modeling whether it's as a prop on your layout or a cool project to make something old new again."
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Posted - February 23 2014 : 12:21:16 PM
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Originally posted by vbco1964Â -Â February 23 2014Â :Â 02:02:41 AM
[/quote]My trolley has one of those pancake motors but I still want to get it work good for some reason....So does that mean LaBelle #108 won't work with brown box engines?
Originally posted by kovacste000Â -Â February 23 2014Â :Â 10:34:27 AM
[/quote]
Not at all. The pancake motor will respond to lube as well, JUST DON'T USE MUCH! The bushings for the armature shaft are tiny, you just need to apply LESS than a full drop to them, the danger is the brush side, if you get too much oil and it comes through and starts getting flung around the brushes, it can catch fire. MINIMAL oil is best used at first. So you need to literally just take a pin, brush it through a drop of oil, and place said small amount on the end of the shaft(s) on both sides ( gear side is much tougher, have to disassemble to get to it).
As far as it running better in one direction better than another? I've found the grooves that the axles sit in ( on PT motored units ) can have burrs or sharp edges, and will cut into the shaft. I take the axles out, and file the edges so they're chamfered some. IE, they have a bevel to the edge of the axle slot edges. This prevents the axle from binding. I've found many PT motors have sharp edges where the axles sit, and they can bind up significantly. that is FOUR edges for each wheel ( two outside and two inside the frame), 16 total edges you need to check. Relieving that sharpness, and proper grease, and many times the motor will end up running way better than it ever left the factory. I'd check the axle slots, and see if the axle shafts have wear on them from this problem. If not, might just need some grease in the grooves, there is often none from the factory, very little, or dried up and ineffective.
Jerry
" When life throws you bananas...it's easy to slip up"
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Posted - February 23 2014 : 3:05:15 PM
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quote:
Originally posted by vbco1964Â -Â February 23 2014Â :Â 02:02:41 AM
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My trolley has one of those pancake motors but I still want to get it work good for some reason....So does that mean LaBelle #108 won't work with brown box engines?
Originally posted by kovacste000Â -Â February 23 2014Â :Â 10:34:27 AM
[/quote]
Not at all. The pancake motor will respond to lube as well, JUST DON'T USE MUCH! The bushings for the armature shaft are tiny, you just need to apply LESS than a full drop to them, the danger is the brush side, if you get too much oil and it comes through and starts getting flung around the brushes, it can catch fire. MINIMAL oil is best used at first. So you need to literally just take a pin, brush it through a drop of oil, and place said small amount on the end of the shaft(s) on both sides ( gear side is much tougher, have to disassemble to get to it).
As far as it running better in one direction better than another? I've found the grooves that the axles sit in ( on PT motored units ) can have burrs or sharp edges, and will cut into the shaft. I take the axles out, and file the edges so they're chamfered some. IE, they have a bevel to the edge of the axle slot edges. This prevents the axle from binding. I've found many PT motors have sharp edges where the axles sit, and they can bind up significantly. that is FOUR edges for each wheel ( two outside and two inside the frame), 16 total edges you need to check. Relieving that sharpness, and proper grease, and many times the motor will end up running way better than it ever left the factory. I'd check the axle slots, and see if the axle shafts have wear on them from this problem. If not, might just need some grease in the grooves, there is often none from the factory, very little, or dried up and ineffective.
Jerry
Originally posted by AMC_Gremlin_GTÂ -Â February 23 2014Â :Â 12:21:16 PM
[/quote]Alright. I'll try that. I also have a 2-8-0 Chattanooga that squeals when I first put it on the tracks which I'm also gonna service.
-Steve
"A lot of modellers out there who go to these train shows see broken HO stuff and go, 'This is useless' when, in reality, they can still be used for modeling whether it's as a prop on your layout or a cool project to make something old new again."
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Posted - February 23 2014 : 7:41:15 PM
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quote:Alright. I'll try that. I also have a 2-8-0 Chattanooga that squeals when I first put it on the tracks which I'm also gonna service.
Originally posted by kovacste000Â -Â February 23 2014Â :Â 3:05:15 PM
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The squeal is indicative of the armature shaft needing some lube. That is a common problem with the PT motors. So that obviously needs oil.
Jerry
" When life throws you bananas...it's easy to slip up"
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Posted - February 23 2014 : 7:57:08 PM
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quote: quote:Alright. I'll try that. I also have a 2-8-0 Chattanooga that squeals when I first put it on the tracks which I'm also gonna service.
Originally posted by kovacste000Â -Â February 23 2014Â :Â 3:05:15 PM
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The squeal is indicative of the armature shaft needing some lube. That is a common problem with the PT motors. So that obviously needs oil.
Jerry
Originally posted by AMC_Gremlin_GTÂ -Â February 23 2014Â :Â 7:41:15 PM
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I know that perfectly well from all the threads about it on this forum.
-Steve
"A lot of modellers out there who go to these train shows see broken HO stuff and go, 'This is useless' when, in reality, they can still be used for modeling whether it's as a prop on your layout or a cool project to make something old new again."
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