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babuff
Little Six

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 Posted - December 12 2013 :  10:29:33 PM Link directly to this topic  Show Profile  Add babuff to Buddylist
For those not familiar with my problem they can get up to speed by reading my prior posting "mystery short" Thanks to JRG1951 I got some excellent help for what happened next(along with many great members here). I figured that if I was going to replace the brush and spring set that HORIZON sent me, which would require removing the motor contact clips ( not a job for the faint of heart either) I might just as well go the extra mile and remove the friction clip altogether. I went to RADIO SHACK and bought some female crimp-on flag quick disconnects part # 6403046. there are two sizes and the 3/16 fit perfectly on to the power truck tab. I soldered wire leads to them and drilled and tapped a 2-56 hole in the frame and used a ring terminal with a lead wire. Next came the fun part I removed the motor clips and pulled out the old brush and spring, or I should say the FRAGMENTS of the brush. Ater soldering the wire leads to the clips and checking thoroughly that there were no fragments in the armature core, I took MANY deep breaths and reassembled the motor with the new brush set.
There comes a time in everyones life when you have to go with the roll of the dice and this was one such time. I hooked up my multimeter and power supply and let her rip. Not only did she run without tripping the power supply circuit breaker after a min or two, but my readings were steady and constant and even slightly less than before. After an hour of runtime I was satisfied the problem was gone. Now I intend to redo her sister units the same way.

leo
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JRG1951
Big Boy


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 Posted - December 13 2013 :  11:01:37 AM Link directly to this reply  Show Profile  Send JRG1951 a Yahoo! Message  Add JRG1951 to Buddylist
Leo,
I'm glad you fixed your problem. I think the modification to your Athearn units will pay off with better reliability and performance in the future. I am sure all who helped were glad to help.

There is a ton of Athearn information here [mostly in Model Railroading]

http://www.trainlife.com/magazines/model-train-magazine-index

Regards, John ********************


/tyco/forum/uploaded/JRG1951/20131213110025_fishermans prayer.jpg

Edited by - JRG1951 on December 13 2013 11:31:41 AM
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String boB
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 Posted - December 13 2013 :  5:33:27 PM Link directly to this reply  Show Profile  Add String boB to Buddylist
quote:
Leo,
I'm glad you fixed your problem. I think the modification to your Athearn units will pay off with better reliability and performance in the future. I am sure all who helped were glad to help.

There is a ton of Athearn information here [mostly in Model Railroading]

http://www.trainlife.com/magazines/model-train-magazine-index

Regards, John ********************


/tyco/forum/uploaded/JRG1951/20131213110025_fishermans prayer.jpg

Originally posted by JRG1951 - December 13 2013 :  11:01:37 AM



I have a JWBowker, I guess it's an AHM or maybe a Rivarossi, with the motor in the cab. I am trying to rewire it with pickups on the tender and maybe a headlight at the same time. The problem I have is that it possibly needs new brush springs, because one of them seems weak and apparently does not push the brush down all the way against the commutator. Where can I get new brush springs for these motors. Alternately, I have thought of making new ones from real fine bronze or steel wire. Opinons, please?

String Bob
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lvrr325
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 Posted - December 13 2013 :  7:07:15 PM Link directly to this reply  Show Profile  Add lvrr325 to Buddylist
Why not, if it's a coil spring, just pull it apart a little bit and put it back in there?
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babuff
Little Six

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 Posted - December 13 2013 :  8:00:06 PM Link directly to this reply  Show Profile  Add babuff to Buddylist
sting-bob I have made my own using a mandrel set from MICRO MARK that range from 1mm to 8mm diameters. Basicly you anchor the wire in the hole provided and make your windings around the shaft. It takes a little practice to get the hang of it to come out right. You will need a DREMEL or other variable slow speed drill. I would say the 1mm ( .039) or 2mm ( .079) might work. I suggest that you slip the mandrel into the brush hole to make sure a loose fit. There are brush set available on E-BAY from time to time.

stretching the old spring weakens the tensile strength of the metal and will reduce tension strength of the coil. Remember the number of turns in a spring determines it's strength, so count the turns of the old spring and add 1/2 to 1 more turns. I got the brush set from HORIZON ( aka athearns) for a particular motor that I bought from them. It seems that they had a bad batch of brushes made with defective material, so the replacement was free. I hope this helps you. let me know what happens.

leo
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AMC_Gremlin_GT
Big Boy



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 Posted - December 13 2013 :  8:37:55 PM Link directly to this reply  Show Profile  Send AMC_Gremlin_GT an AOL message  Send AMC_Gremlin_GT a Yahoo! Message  Add AMC_Gremlin_GT to Buddylist
I've used Tyco slot car brush springs as replacements in some diesel HO engine motors. Slot cars have different sizes and diameters, so you should be able to find some online without too much difficulty, the issue is getting the right length/diameter right, and I am not sure they post those specs at all, just pictures. But it's a good place to start.

Jerry

" When life throws you bananas...it's easy to slip up"
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