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 Posted - November 08 2013 : 7:38:57 PM
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Desperately searching for someone who has an original brass rear driver to the MDC-Roundhouse 4-4-2 Atlantic. Anyone got one somewhere in a parts bin you want to sell?
Thanks in advance!
I buy, repair, and collect
http://scvr.weebly.com/
http://seyboldlocomotiveworks.weebly.com/
http://www.youtube.com/user/TheDeputation?feature=watch
Hyde.
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Posted - November 10 2013 : 9:25:32 PM
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| Generic driver question(s): ?Are most HO scale drivers tapped for the same thread? ?Can drivers be interchanged between locomotives if the diameter is correct? I'm guessing maybe that within a given manufacturer some interchange can occur, but maybe there are even more possibilities? I've read about the "quartering" business and I also wonder, on that basis, if quartering is different on different drivers [of the same diameter]? Be interesting if there was a book (like for some cars and trucks) where you just look up interchangeable parts, hey?
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Posted - November 11 2013 : 01:41:31 AM
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If I wanted to get crazy I could without a doubt find, or make a driver similar to the one I need. And many tried to push me in that direction, but I want it to be an original Roundhouse driver that replaces the bad one. If it takes me weeks or months then so be it, just as long as I'm sticking to my plan. I don't want to take any chances, i.e. giving myself more headaches trying to get some other non roundhouse driver to work well with it. A lot of head scratching, headaches, and frustration can be avoided by me just finding a Roundhouse 4-4-2 driver.
Dedication.
I buy, repair, and collect
http://scvr.weebly.com/
http://seyboldlocomotiveworks.weebly.com/
http://www.youtube.com/user/TheDeputation?feature=watch
Hyde.
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Posted - November 11 2013 : 10:24:00 AM
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Is the problem with the existing driver that its screw hole is stripped out? That can be an easy fix sometimes.
Randy
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Posted - November 11 2013 : 11:13:47 AM
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Ebay, but they are right proud of it
http://www.ebay.com/itm/HO-SCALE-ROUNDHOUSE-4-4-2-STEAM-LOCOMOTIVE-DRIVER-/321241590799?pt=Model_RR_Trains&hash=item4acb7dac0f
I have repaired stripped holes by filling them with JB-Weld and drilling and tapping the hole.
Regards, John **************
You're born. You suffer. You die. Fortunately, there's a loophole. <> Billy Graham
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Posted - November 11 2013 : 1:08:25 PM
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Hi John, I too, am a firm believer in JB Weld.
I read an article in some train magazine where a guy was using ACC where you would normally use putty. He would add the ACC then use a drop of accelerator to harden it quickly then add more ACC. Once he got the area built up the way he wanted it he would just sand the ACC down to a smooth finish. I got to wondering how well the ACC would work for other things; especially after noticing how hard it would get right around the end of the bottle's tip. So I started using it to fill holes, then drill and re-tap them. It works pretty well. The trick to this is making sure that all of the oil and grease is cleaned off of the project before you start.
Randy
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Posted - November 11 2013 : 1:57:18 PM
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I've seen that driver on ebay. It's the front, geared wheel. I'm looking for the non geared, and or rear driver. Thanks though!
The problem with my rear wheel is the crankpin, in which the rods rotate on and the eccentric crank is screwed down to managed to somehow break off. I tried about 7 or 8 times to replace the crankpin but all proved unsuccessful. Rather then irritate myself trying to continue a cheap repair, I want something long term that will more likely be the permanent fix.
I buy, repair, and collect
http://scvr.weebly.com/
http://seyboldlocomotiveworks.weebly.com/
http://www.youtube.com/user/TheDeputation?feature=watch
Hyde.
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Posted - November 11 2013 : 4:26:55 PM
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Hyde, I've drilled out broken side rod screws before, and it's easier than you think. If it's brass, it's soft enough to drill through pretty easily with a pin vise and a jeweler's loupe for magnification. Oil helps the process. Once I got it drilled out enough I could pull the remnants of the screw out of the threads. I always thought I'd have to fill & re-tap, but there was enough of the threads left in spite of the drill for a new screw to grab with no problem.
Randy, the many uses for CA is a like a well-kept secret. Accelerator seems to strengthen it, you just have to be aware that any CA you add after using accelerator will kick instantly, even if you clean it off first. I much prefer CA to epoxy; in fact I've never found an epoxy joint I couldn't break. That's a plus, since I can easily remove it from locos from epoxy-happy owners who thought it was perfect for mounting Kadees and fine detail parts. 
Try CA and baking soda as a putty substitute, or a substitute for epoxy on internal repairs (broken screw bosses, e.g.), and thank me later. 
The Tyco Depot
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Posted - November 11 2013 : 6:48:37 PM
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I use Loc-tite brand "super glue" 99% of the time. But recently, I mixed up a tiny batch of JB weld to re-glue the magnets into a Bachmann pancake motor. It just seemed to be the thing to do at the time.
Mr. Seybold, if you will PM me with your address I will send you the driver that you need. I need to go to the post office anyway to mail some "stuff" to some dude in England :-)
Randy
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Posted - November 12 2013 : 02:47:43 AM
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I think many of us are not understanding quite the problem. The long crankpin that sticks out of the driver, broke. Meaning a rod screw can no longer be screwed into the drive wheel.
I cut a metal crankpin off an old bachmann spectrum wheel I had laying around, zapped it to the wheel and kept doing adjustments trying to get it to work but the force that was put on the crankpin was too much which caused it to break after each test.
The picture shown aboveis just to show the drivers looks so y'all toocan look through your parts bind.
I buy, repair, and collect
http://scvr.weebly.com/
http://seyboldlocomotiveworks.weebly.com/
http://www.youtube.com/user/TheDeputation?feature=watch
Hyde.
Edited by - SCVR66 on November 12 2013 02:49:50 AM
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Posted - March 27 2014 : 12:46:30 PM
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Well Hyde, what ever became of this project?
Randy
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Posted - March 27 2014 : 1:30:04 PM
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If you are still looking I may be able to help you out. What I have is not MDC but Aristo Craft. Post dimensions and I will check against what I have.
It does have brass tires and the spoked wheel.
Edited by - Retired Alex on March 27 2014 1:32:06 PM
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Posted - March 29 2014 : 3:42:48 PM
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Well Randy I haven't touched it since January. It is almost fully put back together.
I had got your driver under the frame and all hooked up after installing the new timing rod, new expansion link, repairing the union link as well as replacing all the rod pins and screws but when it finally came time for test runs she wouldn't turn over much. Turns out the idler gear was mangled to death from years of use. So that ended her reign as top priority. The motor wire was also giving me fixes so I took it out and will make a new one soon as someone offers me up an idler gear for sale. All the new and repaired valve gear rolls perfectly so completion is not very far off it all just depends on the idler gear.
P.S: Randy, I forgot, did you need just the coal bunker off the Revell Omaha or the entire cab that is attached to it?
I buy, repair, and collect
http://scvr.weebly.com/
http://seyboldlocomotiveworks.weebly.com/
http://www.youtube.com/user/TheDeputation?feature=watch
Hyde.
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Posted - March 31 2014 : 11:03:14 AM
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Hi Hyde, glad to hear that the driver worked and that the running gear is well. I did not know you were in need of that gear, I will look for one.
Regarding the Omaha, I could use the entire cab if you happen to have one.
Randy
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Posted - March 31 2014 : 12:18:37 PM
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Hyde,
North West Short line (NWSL) makes gear sets for the MDC locomotives, They are pricey ans you may have to call to find the right set, But they are there.
http://www.nwsl.com/NWSL_Online_Catalog.html
Good Luck, John **********
I contend that for a nation to try to tax itself into prosperity is like a man standing in a bucket and trying to lift himself up by the handle. --Winston Churchill
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