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 Posted - October 20 2013 : 6:48:21 PM
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Not quite a full set yet, but it's coming together nicely.  Tyco's A-Team shark and consist:
cheez
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 Posted - October 20 2013 : 7:14:01 PM
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coool I likes it
Here is my set Only missing the flatcar!
Btw the table I set the train on is sold
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Posted - October 20 2013 : 7:21:06 PM
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quote:| Btw the table I set the train on is sold |
Which would explain the dumpster-cam I guess... 
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Posted - October 20 2013 : 7:22:48 PM
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Darn, I shoulda used my GI Joe set for SOTW, oh well. Here is an Army special train, just won off Ebay and received last week. I got the dual machine gun boxcar, but minus the guns,and it's got issues, the engine is missing the axles and gears on one end, but a decent set overall.
Jerry
" When life throws you bananas...it's easy to slip up"
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Posted - October 20 2013 : 8:35:12 PM
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quote: quote:| Btw the table I set the train on is sold |
Which would explain the dumpster-cam I guess...
Originally posted by DaCheez - October 20 2013 : 7:21:06 PM
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no but I was forced to sell it Oh well I got $16 for the folding picnic table
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Posted - October 21 2013 : 12:14:25 AM
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Who made the U.S. Army set, Jerry? I ask because recently at an antique mall I saw a boxcar chassis with two gun mounts (but only one gun) by AHM, I think, and was wondering what it's purpose was.
Glenn
I was thinking of the immortal words of Socrates, who said, "... I drank what?"
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Posted - October 21 2013 : 6:00:38 PM
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Well I guess I ought to post what I just brought home.....
Not a "true" set........ the Loco is Athearn, an old one:
The rest of the cars are/were kits of some sort, not sure by who, but a good few of interesting cars.....
~John
Many have tried to, and failed, ya just can't repair stupid...
Do NOT try to Idiot-Proof anything!!!! God, will simply create a better......IDIOT!
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Posted - October 21 2013 : 8:26:33 PM
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| http://youtu.be/vk_PQL5EU_I With Nelson's help (drivers), got this little tank side running and now it seems it may be the best slow mover I've got. This video is of it creeping around the corner of my tiny layout with a short consist.
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Posted - October 21 2013 : 10:31:37 PM
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That's some freakin slow Barry, NICE........
~John
Many have tried to, and failed, ya just can't repair stupid...
Do NOT try to Idiot-Proof anything!!!! God, will simply create a better......IDIOT!
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steve
Big Six
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Posted - October 21 2013 : 11:14:21 PM
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| John that loco looks Hairy Scary to Me!!!!
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Posted - October 22 2013 : 12:32:39 AM
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quote:John that loco looks Hairy Scary to Me!!!!
Originally posted by steve - October 21 2013 : 11:14:21 PM
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yes also ewww & yuck
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Posted - October 22 2013 : 01:00:53 AM
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Yeah I've cleaned it out now. it looked as tho it killed the cat!!!!!!!!!!!!Or at least had the cats tail wound up around that motor shaft!!!!!!!
~John
Many have tried to, and failed, ya just can't repair stupid...
Do NOT try to Idiot-Proof anything!!!! God, will simply create a better......IDIOT!
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Posted - October 23 2013 : 8:37:59 PM
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John, maybe some old fat guy used it to shave his back. 
Barry, I'm amazed you got that kind of low speed performance out of an old PM-1 motor, although it sounds like it's grinding ball bearings.  The motor bearings are probably a little worn.
The Tyco Depot
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Posted - October 23 2013 : 8:56:04 PM
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| Yeah, it is noisy (noisier when running slowly). Perhaps I should try a heavier lubricant on that part of the motor? Any suggestions? Although, when I tested the motor while I had this locomotive apart for cleaning it sounded real quiet and strong. In fact, the motor was real clean, like it had little use. The wheels were worn though, so who knows. Anyway, that noise thing, I've kind of grown to appreciate. Since I don't have DCC and all that sound stuff, I imagine that noise as being the "HO scale sound" emitted from an HO scale steam locomotive. Yeah, it don't take a whole lot to amuse me.
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Posted - October 23 2013 : 9:22:35 PM
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quote:Barry, I'm amazed you got that kind of low speed performance out of an old PM-1 motor, although it sounds like it's grinding ball bearings. The motor bearings are probably a little worn.
Originally posted by NickelPlate759Â -Â October 23 2013Â :Â 8:37:59 PM
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That's not a worn bearing. That noise you hear is half-wave DC (a.k.a. pulse). Any PM-1 motor will run that slow on pulse. I do it all the time with my old Mantuas.
Carpe Manana!
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Posted - October 23 2013 : 9:35:38 PM
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quote:John, maybe some old fat guy used it to shave his back. /tyco/forum/uploaded/NickelPlate759/20131023203148_eek.gif
Originally posted by NickelPlate759Â -Â October 23 2013Â :Â 8:37:59 PM
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Nelson,
That's a mental imagine I just didn't need to have! 
~John
Many have tried to, and failed, ya just can't repair stupid...
Do NOT try to Idiot-Proof anything!!!! God, will simply create a better......IDIOT!
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Posted - October 24 2013 : 02:02:27 AM
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quote: quote:John, maybe some old fat guy used it to shave his back. /tyco/forum/uploaded/NickelPlate759/20131023203148_eek.gif
Originally posted by NickelPlate759Â -Â October 23 2013Â :Â 8:37:59 PM
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Nelson,
That's a mental imagine I just didn't need to have!
Originally posted by EM-1Â -Â October 23 2013Â :Â 9:35:38 PM
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yet, here we are... reposting the grueling drama... /tyco/forum/uploaded/NickelPlate759/20131023203148_eek.gif
You gotta put caps on the end of the shafts or the rubber bands will reach the ends and come off.
Question: Who has the diagram for assembly of the Athearn Hustler, or where may I find a good one? I've got a few Hustlers that need rubber band replacement but no pictures to look at or instructions to follow.
John
I don't have a one track mind. It depends on the turn-out.
"I love your catenary!"
Is that a power-trip or just another pick-up line?
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Posted - October 24 2013 : 03:18:25 AM
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quote: quote:Barry, I'm amazed you got that kind of low speed performance out of an old PM-1 motor, although it sounds like it's grinding ball bearings. The motor bearings are probably a little worn.
Originally posted by NickelPlate759Â -Â October 23 2013Â :Â 8:37:59 PM
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That's not a worn bearing. That noise you hear is half-wave DC (a.k.a. pulse). Any PM-1 motor will run that slow on pulse. I do it all the time with my old Mantuas.
Originally posted by scsshaggy - October 23 2013 : 9:22:35 PM
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Actually it is the bearings, but pulse will increase the cogging noise. If there's any wear -- probably less than a thousandth of an inch -- the shaft has enough play to move back and forth inside the bearing as the magnets push and pull the armature poles. The bearings are mechanically connected through the motor frame to the chassis without any sound deadening (e.g. a rubber mount), so the frame and shell become a sounding board to amplify it. I have some PM-1's and MU-2's where the bearings are tight and they make no noise except a nice whine, even at low speed. Barry's side tanker has seen a lot of use, so it's not surprising the motor sounds like that. It doesn't take much wear for some motors to get noisy... sometimes just break-in will do it. It's common with other brands, too, most notably the AHM / Mehano coffee grinders.
A simple test is to put heavy oil or even grease on the bearings. The motor will quiet down for a while, until the lubricant spreads and stops acting like a dampener. That's one of the reasons I like Rivarossi's old ball bearing motors: just tighten up the bearing adjusting screw, and the noise is gone. Loosen it, and the motor starts to sound a diesel tractor.
Barry, that's probably why your motor was quiet when you first lubed it. You could try heavier oil, but as I said the noise comes back once it disperses. If it runs fine and the noise doesn't bother you, then don't worry about it.
John, sorry for the mental image, but I would get that guy's back hair out of that Hustler pronto!
The Tyco Depot
Edited by - NickelPlate759 on October 24 2013 03:20:12 AM
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Posted - October 24 2013 : 03:58:56 AM
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Nelson, All cleaned up......... I have yet to add new rubber bands to see how well she runs as a NON shaver!!!!!!
~John
Many have tried to, and failed, ya just can't repair stupid...
Do NOT try to Idiot-Proof anything!!!! God, will simply create a better......IDIOT!
Edited by - EM-1 on October 24 2013 03:59:34 AM
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Posted - October 24 2013 : 07:03:15 AM
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well guys is this something rare?
I ask as I have not ever seen it and when I did, I HAD to have it. I got the Shay to go with it too!!!! As this set is MDC Roundhouse.
~John
Many have tried to, and failed, ya just can't repair stupid...
Do NOT try to Idiot-Proof anything!!!! God, will simply create a better......IDIOT!
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Posted - October 24 2013 : 6:30:51 PM
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quote:| Actually it is the bearings, but pulse will increase the cogging noise. If there's any wear -- probably less than a thousandth of an inch -- the shaft has enough play to move back and forth inside the bearing as the magnets push and pull the armature poles. The bearings are mechanically connected through the motor frame to the chassis without any sound deadening (e.g. a rubber mount), so the frame and shell become a sounding board to amplify it. I have some PM-1's and MU-2's where the bearings are tight and they make no noise except a nice whine, even at low speed. Barry's side tanker has seen a lot of use, so it's not surprising the motor sounds like that. It doesn't take much wear for some motors to get noisy... sometimes just break-in will do it. It's common with other brands, too, most notably the AHM / Mehano coffee grinders. |
Is that what causes the noise in MU-2 motors? I was wondering about that a couple days ago. I've noticed that a lot of MU-2 motors are really noisy at low speeds until they hit a certain speed where the noise goes away. I assume that once they're get spinning fast enough the driveshaft is no longer able to vibrate? 
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Posted - October 24 2013 : 8:44:36 PM
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quote:
Question: Who has the diagram for assembly of the Athearn Hustler, or where may I find a good one? I've got a few Hustlers that need rubber band replacement but no pictures to look at or instructions to follow.
Originally posted by zebrails - October 24 2013 : 02:02:27 AM
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HOSeeker has diagrams for most all the old Athearns as well as other brands.
http://tycodepot.com/
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Posted - October 24 2013 : 8:48:22 PM
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quote:well guys is this something rare?
I ask as I have not ever seen it and when I did, I HAD to have it. I got the Shay to go with it too!!!! As this set is MDC Roundhouse.
Originally posted by EM-1Â -Â October 24 2013Â :Â 07:03:15 AM
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WOW. Impressive, and I'm not even a fan of the older stuff. Hss to be rare, but even if it's not it's a great find.
http://tycodepot.com/
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Posted - October 25 2013 : 12:52:20 AM
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quote:
Is that what causes the noise in MU-2 motors? I was wondering about that a couple days ago. I've noticed that a lot of MU-2 motors are really noisy at low speeds until they hit a certain speed where the noise goes away. I assume that once they're get spinning fast enough the driveshaft is no longer able to vibrate?
Originally posted by DaCheez - October 24 2013 : 6:30:51 PM
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You got it, Cheez. They do smooth out with speed. Low RPM is where the cogging (both the jerky motion from switching between poles, and noise from worn bearings) is noticeable. Three pole motors are more prone to it, and some motors with cheap bearings will develop that noise no matter what you do. I have some cheap Mabuchi cans with sintered iron bearings, and they start getting noisy after a short amount of run time. The 3 pole motors in the AHM C-Liners and BL2's can be quiet out of the box, but start chattering after a while no matter how well you oil them. I've even tried Teflon oil with the same result.
Another problem for the PM-1 / MU-2 motors is that they don't have separate gearboxes, so the bearings take side thrust from the worms, which increases wear. MU-2's are also hard to oil, so most you come across have probably been run dry for most of their careers. I have a red box era F7 that's quiet, but I've had it over 30 years and kept it lubed.
Now back to your regularly scheduled thread.
The Tyco Depot
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Posted - October 25 2013 : 1:25:03 PM
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quote: quote:
Is that what causes the noise in MU-2 motors? I was wondering about that a couple days ago. I've noticed that a lot of MU-2 motors are really noisy at low speeds until they hit a certain speed where the noise goes away. I assume that once they're get spinning fast enough the driveshaft is no longer able to vibrate?
Originally posted by DaCheez - October 24 2013 : 6:30:51 PM
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You got it, Cheez. They do smooth out with speed. Low RPM is where the cogging (both the jerky motion from switching between poles, and noise from worn bearings) is noticeable. Three pole motors are more prone to it, and some motors with cheap bearings will develop that noise no matter what you do. I have some cheap Mabuchi cans with sintered iron bearings, and they start getting noisy after a short amount of run time. The 3 pole motors in the AHM C-Liners and BL2's can be quiet out of the box, but start chattering after a while no matter how well you oil them. I've even tried Teflon oil with the same result.
Another problem for the PM-1 / MU-2 motors is that they don't have separate gearboxes, so the bearings take side thrust from the worms, which increases wear. MU-2's are also hard to oil, so most you come across have probably been run dry for most of their careers. I have a red box era F7 that's quiet, but I've had it over 30 years and kept it lubed.
Now back to your regularly scheduled thread.
Originally posted by NickelPlate759Â -Â October 25 2013Â :Â 12:52:20 AM
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There IS a way.... BUT, do I dare say how? Ohh hell why not....These bearings, take them OUT completely, BOTH of them, find a local or an reputable "plating" company, I have one close by, and see if this place, does nickel plating. have EACH bearing, 100% plated...A HEAVY plating, I might add. Then get a measurement of the shaft that passes through it and have the bearing reamed to that spec. TRUE spec, not assume or guestimate. ADD a half of a thousandths to the number say its a 1/8th shaft, that's .125, have it reamed to .125, and then use a finish round file, NOT a tapered one, and then lightly file the opening, NOT much but just a few passes of the file making sure its done all around the opening, but VERY VERY lightly....Then, re-install the bearings, and add a bit of grease, to the bearing on the motor brush side, HEAVY thick grease, but a very LIGHT amount of it, and then just a half a drop of oil on the other, AFTER re-pressing the gear to the motor shaft back in place.
This should stop your "noise" AND make the loco's motor last a bit longer then the standard release.
BUT, I'll warn you, its nota cheap repair, by any sort of the imagination.....BUT, it can be done, and I have done it. BUT, I no longer do plating work! BUT can get prices of places, I know that does do it if interested!
~John
Many have tried to, and failed, ya just can't repair stupid...
Do NOT try to Idiot-Proof anything!!!! God, will simply create a better......IDIOT!
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Posted - October 25 2013 : 2:07:04 PM
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Jerry,
Yeah, I had to get that "Shay" set. the price was right and it caught me eye so.....BUT This isn't the first time, I've posted it....I've had it a while! But for I think I paid, $20.00 or $25.00 it was worth it. needs a little work, but that's OK the work isn't "serious" couplers, and some of the hand rail is missing and the ladders are gone but......Those are parts, I'm not worried about anyway (I've got a supply) so.....
Not runnable yet, PLUS, I'm adding interiors to the cars, with people in them and lighting.....2 cars, are already done!
~John
Many have tried to, and failed, ya just can't repair stupid...
Do NOT try to Idiot-Proof anything!!!! God, will simply create a better......IDIOT!
Edited by - EM-1 on October 25 2013 9:35:11 PM
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Posted - October 25 2013 : 9:16:07 PM
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| That Shay set is cool John. I like those Roundhouse things; lots of steam era stuff.
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Posted - October 25 2013 : 9:39:35 PM
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Barry,
That set has got to be my favorite of all I know of.... I think it fits right in to my railroad. See I model the B&O and Western Maryland in my home land.... of Pennsylvania, WELL, this set would a GREAT "Tourist" run, OR even a Excursion run.... on the B&O main? Sure! the Western Maryland main? sure! How about on the logging line? SURE! It will be on my layout, on one of the lines as a "special"
~John
Many have tried to, and failed, ya just can't repair stupid...
Do NOT try to Idiot-Proof anything!!!! God, will simply create a better......IDIOT!
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