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 Anyone run Walthers P2K / Kato engines?
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Author Previous Topic: early british drive mechanism Topic Next Topic: Another good day at the LHS repairing trains  

AMC_Gremlin_GT
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GremlinBL2

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 Posted - August 31 2013 :  7:19:54 PM Link directly to this topic  Show Profile  Send AMC_Gremlin_GT an AOL message  Send AMC_Gremlin_GT a Yahoo! Message  Add AMC_Gremlin_GT to Buddylist
While working in the model train shop today at my "new" 2nd job, train repair, I got to work on some engines the owner said were Kato engines, but in the Walthers P2k boxes. I guess Walthers markets them? Anyway, a GP-38 and SD60 were on the table to have decoders installed. The GP38 was a MESS, they totally wired it back-asswards and upside down at the factory! I had to take more than half the wires off the harness block and move them. The kicker, which is what I'm interested in from any Forum members, is they they did NOT solder the wires to the internal block PCB, they stuck them through a hole, then slid these little rubbery caps over the PCB "fingers", to hold the wires to the PCB! I wasn't impressed at ALL with this, although I'm sure it makes it easier to add lights and fix factory wiring errors , and speeds up Production immensely by not having to solder the wires. I ended up soldering the GP38's wires to the block, finally got it to read the decoder and operate the engine in the PROPER direction, with all 4 lights ( 2 front, 2 rear ) working.
I'm just interested if anyone has had one of these engines, and has had any problems with them after using them awhile. VERY interested. The owner at the store said they've done this for years with their engines. One benefit of working in the Repair department is that I am getting to see older engines along with new ones, and how they get DCC'ed and other fascinating details. Should expand my knowledge of all scales model railroading exponentially in the coming months if I keep this job. Livin' and learnin', yup, yup, yup! Worked on fixing couplers on AHM CN&W engines, and next project is checking out some Walthers Trainline engines for noisiness and other issues.

Jerry

" When life throws you bananas...it's easy to slip up"
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Redneck Justin
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 Posted - September 01 2013 :  12:11:13 AM Link directly to this reply  Show Profile  Add Redneck Justin to Buddylist
I have a P2K/Walthers USRA DC 2-8-8-2 mallet. Nice runner! Love it. Got it 2 years ago for $75 with no box and just dusty from being on display at a hobby shop. Runs smooth and quietly.
" Heck with counting 'em rivets, TRAINS ARE FOR FUN! Not called the Mad Scientist for nothing either!"
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NC shortlines
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 Posted - September 01 2013 :  07:38:50 AM Link directly to this reply  Show Profile  Add NC shortlines to Buddylist
I have a KATO SW-7. Previously, gently used. Runs like the proverbial sewing machine. Does not have DCC so I can't say about the PCB or such.

Sounds like some interesting stuff you are doing there.
Just curious about how your shop charges?
By the hour? Each job is quoted individually?
Repairing a DCC Kato engine is one thing but, couplers on an AHM engine is another. Not worth the same shop rate, I would think?
What do you have in stock for spare parts? I mean for the Out of Production stuff. Got spares or donor locos?
Just curious.

Unspoken expectations are premeditated failures.
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Parts323
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 Posted - September 01 2013 :  11:32:11 AM Link directly to this reply  Show Profile  Add Parts323 to Buddylist
I have several Proto 2000 locomotives, a 2-10-2 and a 0-6-0, and both run great. I alos have a dozen or so Kato locomotives and have nothing but great things to say about Kato. My layout is also all Kato Unitrack.
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EM-1
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B&O EM-1 7614

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 Posted - September 02 2013 :  03:35:31 AM Link directly to this reply  Show Profile  Click to see EM-1's MSN Messenger address  Send EM-1 a Yahoo! Message  Add EM-1 to Buddylist
Jerry,
Word of caution here....those little tabs WERE NOT soldered for a reason...those PCB boards don't take heat well.....The coating that holds the internal wiring track to the PCB will let go under light heat applied to the board!

As for this, I have a few Proto-2000 units, they were originally made by Life-Like! (Believe that one?) Life-Like went and sold out to Walthers! NOW Proto-2000 was Life-Likes top of the line, and went from them, to Walthers!

Needless to say, I like all the Proto units I have, BUT I'll warn you, the older models, the GP's and the BL-2 from the late 1980's to the early 2000's were known to blow out axle gears! They would split....due to the reaming department NOT doing it properly.....Plus not a good plastic to be made from.......... on the other hand, Athearn had this just PREFECT.....As the Athearn part, will replace the split Proto-2000 part without issue or Machine work, of ANY kind! AND will last! As the replacement factory parts from Walthers now, I don't think any better then the factory originals from Life-Like when they were in business!

Now, for Kato, GREAT units for what I know of them. I own 4 of these units.....ALL 4 my little girl runs the ever loving CRAP out of them, and they still keep on keeping on.....Kinda like my Mantua 0-4-0 Goat and 0-6-0 Goat, at Christmas time, under the tree.....I swear those 2 'lil steamers will run forever!

~John

Many have tried to, and failed, ya just can't repair stupid...

Do NOT try to Idiot-Proof anything!!!! God, will simply create a better......IDIOT!
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lvrr325
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 Posted - September 02 2013 :  08:32:23 AM Link directly to this reply  Show Profile  Add lvrr325 to Buddylist
Guy doesn't even know what he has and it says what they are right on the box. They're Proto 2000 locomotives. Kato doesn't even factor into the equation.

The GP38 has been made by Athearn, Atlas, and Proto.

The SD60 was done by Proto and Athearn may also have done one.


As noted, Proto 2000 was originally by Life-Like, and the drives in them are a clone of Athearn with some improvements and some errors. How much of a clone? I was able to put the drive from a P2K BL2 into an Athearn GP38-2 and it required no alterations. However, the metal clip on the trucks is mirrored from Athearn - so it went backwards compared to everything else. The newer Athearn frame only fits the trucks one way. I ended up opening the motor and swapping magnets to correct that. Today I'd just isolate the motor and hard wire it instead.

I also have a LL P2K FA-2 which has been pieced together from parts and an Athearn U30B provided motor and trucks, again no issues installing them. I forget what I did for driveshafts though. It's in a box somewhere here.



Life-Like's parent company decided to get out of the train business a few years ago and Walthers was the high bidder.


Since they're made in China, they do sometimes have problems. I got a P2K PA from the most recent run cheap because it had an intermittent issue where it would stall. It turned out one of the leads to the motor was poorly soldered. Once I fixed it, I resold it for a huge profit because it was one of the rarer roadnames.

Edited by - lvrr325 on September 02 2013 09:15:44 AM
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NickelPlate759
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 Posted - September 02 2013 :  10:38:57 PM Link directly to this reply  Show Profile  Add NickelPlate759 to Buddylist
Those little plastic wire retaining caps seem to work fine. They should fit quite snug, and the boards that I've seen them on have gold plated traces making them tarnish-proof. I don't recall any of the DCC guys on other forums complaining about them.
The Tyco Depot
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AMC_Gremlin_GT
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GremlinBL2

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 Posted - September 02 2013 :  10:47:08 PM Link directly to this reply  Show Profile  Send AMC_Gremlin_GT an AOL message  Send AMC_Gremlin_GT a Yahoo! Message  Add AMC_Gremlin_GT to Buddylist
quote:
Those little plastic wire retaining caps seem to work fine. They should fit quite snug, and the boards that I've seen them on have gold plated traces making them tarnish-proof. I don't recall any of the DCC guys on other forums complaining about them.

Originally posted by NickelPlate759 - September 02 2013 :  10:38:57 PM



While the plating may be gold on the PCB fingers, the wires are not. Some were solid wire, probably lead coated, the other copper strands, which will tarnish with age. I guess it may hold up, I'm just not convinced myself. Oh well, I don't know that much about them, so who am I to judge? I just can't think of any other application other than the pinch-type audio speaker connections which don't use a hard solder joint for electrical connections, without a nice connector involved. Maybe the vibration from the locomotive moving polishes the wires constantly? I guess if they've worked this long, it must be a viable method. Otherwise there would be many warranty returns and repairs.

Jerry

" When life throws you bananas...it's easy to slip up"
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JRG1951
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 Posted - September 03 2013 :  12:07:44 PM Link directly to this reply  Show Profile  Send JRG1951 a Yahoo! Message  Add JRG1951 to Buddylist
Those type of connectors will definitely work, but they will not work indefinitely. Like till the warranty runs out
Regards, John *********************

Errors using inadequate data are much less than those using no data at all. <> Charles Babbage

Edited by - JRG1951 on September 03 2013 12:08:10 PM
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gmoney
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SCRF 77

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 Posted - September 03 2013 :  1:20:34 PM Link directly to this reply  Show Profile  Add gmoney to Buddylist
quote:
Those type of connectors will definitely work, but they will not work indefinitely. Like till the warranty runs out
Regards, John *********************

Originally posted by JRG1951 - September 03 2013 :  12:07:44 PM



Ah, a fellow cynic!

Glenn

I was thinking of the immortal words of Socrates, who said, "... I drank what?"
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JRG1951
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Old_Guy

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 Posted - September 03 2013 :  8:17:42 PM Link directly to this reply  Show Profile  Send JRG1951 a Yahoo! Message  Add JRG1951 to Buddylist
Show me a cynic, and I will show you a romantic that has been hurt real bad.

Regards, John *********

It is latter than it has ever been. <> unknown
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raysouthernpac
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 Posted - September 29 2013 :  1:31:58 PM Link directly to this reply  Show Profile  Add raysouthernpac to Buddylist
I have about 15 proto 2k units from the life like days. Amazing detail, great runners....before they crack their axles. ALL of my Geeps have fallen victims. A cheap repair though. I see a lot of them at swap meets listed as "doesn't run". I got one for 10 bucks with dcc. If they only knew it was a cracked axle.

I have 5 Kato engines and not much has to be said about them. They are simply amazing.

If you are not having fun, you are not doing it right.
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