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 Posted - May 17 2013 : 01:24:42 AM
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What all needs to be done and used to make a GP10 ICG rebuild diesel? The First Coast Rwy. here in FL has ex-AD&N 1810 as FC 1810 and wanna make a model of it.
This is how it looked before a repaint and sell off:
http://hawkinsrails.net/shortlines/adn/adn.htm
No good pictures after a repaint. Amazing that Arizona and Eastern ( I think ) Geeps took it place while away and a CSX GP unit! I imagine there is no decals for the First Coast Rwy?
" Heck with counting 'em rivets, TRAINS ARE FOR FUN! Not called the Mad Scientist for nothing either!"
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Posted - May 17 2013 : 10:17:22 AM
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Depends. What do you want to start with?
The easiest would be to start with a lo-nosed GP18 from P2K. (I don't recall if they sell a lo-nosed GP9.) You will need to replace the cab roof, add Horst air filter boxes, and add the 4 exhaust stacks. The air filter boxes and exhaust stacks are available aftermarket. Details West has them I think.
You will also need to alter/add/remove lots of small details to match the photos. Each GP10 was "unique" in detail. Take a close look at the filters on the sides of the longhood.
If you really want a challenge, you could use an Athearn GP7/9 or AHM GP18 as a starting point. Then you can have the fun of chopping the nose! You would also need to rebuild the front of the cab.
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Posted - May 17 2013 : 10:40:00 AM
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I emailed a specialist in the hobby and he said some one cast the shell in resin. Has the wrong cab as the one I want to model has a later GP cab.
" Heck with counting 'em rivets, TRAINS ARE FOR FUN! Not called the Mad Scientist for nothing either!"
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Posted - May 17 2013 : 12:40:06 PM
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A close copy could maybe produced by using a standard line Bachmann GP7 model. The Topeka cab could be simulated with a modern GP or SD cab from a Athearn or other model. Make sure the Bachmann has the exposed fans and no dynamic brakes. Hood Widths could be a problem! You will need to modify for the air intakes, filters and exhaust ports.
Intermountain has GP10's, but with the original cabs, and they are not cheap.
Regards,
John
****************************************************************************
It was not terrorist, just well armed movie critics <> Susan Rice
Edited by - JRG1951 on May 17 2013 12:56:38 PM
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Posted - May 17 2013 : 1:31:28 PM
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| I would start with a LL P2K GP7 or GP9 that's closest to correct for the original IC unit. Even the undecs are painted, so after a bath in a paint stripper you have a chance of taking apart the cab and short hood from the shell. Replace the cab with an Athearn or RPP or a Cannon & Co. cab kit, cut the bottom from the short hood and sand away the door detail on the sides (may take a little putty to fill the latch details). Someone I believe makes the filter as a detail part, otherwise you'll have to make it from styrene. The additional stacks are available as detail parts. The rest should be fairly conventional detailing.
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Posted - May 17 2013 : 2:22:10 PM
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Detail West makes a Farr air filter.
Details West AF-370 FARR AIR FILTER FOR GP9, SD9
As above Cannon makes cabs
Regards,
John
*************************************************************************
A perfection of means, and confusion of aims, seems to be our main problem. <> Albert Einstein
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Posted - May 18 2013 : 12:53:00 AM
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I will say first off, I did NOT read all the way through this posting, BUT to my knowledge of this, the EMD GP10 were rebuilt from GP7's and or G-9's.....
The one your looking to model looks to have been built off a GP7..........WHICH to my kitbashing skills would be the easiest to start the project from.....An Athearn unit or something close I would suspect.
I wouldn't use the GP18 due to the single fan detail would ALL have to be removed and replaced with the double fan configuration on the long hood roof top. The Intake is of "Horst" design, with 2 extra exhaust stacks, totaling 4 of them. With that, lowering the short hood, would be easy too!
THEN you would have to fit a NEWER Athearn cab from a GP38-2, OR the like of same cab to match that is pictured on the prototype model.
A custom detail to suit, and a paint job to match your likes and you would have a great looking model!
~John
Many have tried to, and failed, ya just can't repair stupid... 
Do NOT try to Idiot-Proof anything!!!! God, will simply create a better......IDIOT!
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Posted - May 18 2013 : 01:28:19 AM
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I wonder if the front end of a GP38 shell would be easier since the nose is low except for the details being off! I do plan to use a Athearn BB era diesel as other with high hoods prove difficult with split frames and so.
" Heck with counting 'em rivets, TRAINS ARE FOR FUN! Not called the Mad Scientist for nothing either!"
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Posted - May 18 2013 : 02:16:58 AM
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Justin,
One detail on the nose, you missed! look at the nose of the GP10, closely..... the CENTER of the "point" is a flat blunted center, is not like an arrow as such on the GP38. Only the GP7, GP9, GP20 and GP18 has the flat center section on the nose, AND for that matter the same goes for the rear panel as well, it has a flat center as well, instead of the pointed version seen on the remaining "Spartan cab" diesels from EMD.
~John
Many have tried to, and failed, ya just can't repair stupid...
Do NOT try to Idiot-Proof anything!!!! God, will simply create a better......IDIOT!
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Posted - May 18 2013 : 09:01:31 AM
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| If your interested, I have an old, 2-part article from RMC that should help. It is on how to kitbash an ICG GP10. You will still have to detail based on the photos of your particular loco.
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Posted - May 18 2013 : 11:42:13 PM
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Michael,
It might take me till tomorrow to get to the model I have to get pictures.....As Its in a rack in my shop, but, that rack is decent in size, and packed full! SO, with my surgery might take me a bit!
The shell you have, all I need off of it, is the radiator parts, screen, braces and fan mounting plates. As the remaining parts of the shell is in pretty good shape, otherwise.
~John
Many have tried to, and failed, ya just can't repair stupid...
Do NOT try to Idiot-Proof anything!!!! God, will simply create a better......IDIOT!
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