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 Posted - May 01 2013 : 11:01:35 PM
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What motor did Varney use in the Casey Jones? I wanna a original Pittman. I was told its a DC60, but seems like its a DC70.
" Heck with counting 'em rivets, TRAINS ARE FOR FUN! Not called the Mad Scientist for nothing either!"
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Posted - May 01 2013 : 11:23:20 PM
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60. I rebuilt a 2-8-0 a bit ago, DC60. Brushes opposite end from the worm. I'm doing another right now, DC60. Same base motor as in the F3's, too.
Part number 2265, and to confirm, here's the HOSeeker page, shows DC60:
http://www.hoseeker.com/assemblyexplosionvarney/varney460caseyjones.jpg
Dave
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Posted - May 01 2013 : 11:26:05 PM
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I think mine is a DC70 as the brushes are up front. The motor I killed or what ever made it get weak is a knock off Japan Pittman and has plastic gears and must be a later issue as the box says Miami FL and sold as a screw-driver kit in a white/red box. I imagine either one will work?
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Posted - May 01 2013 : 11:34:03 PM
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Ah. You need to specify early or late! Early ones, DC60, fine gears. Later, Japanese knockoff, plastic housing for brushes and one big hair spring for the brushes, coarse gears..
They work okay, unless the plastic has cracked.
Clean the commutator and the grooves, lube it, and try again.
Then call Dan.
Dave
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Posted - May 01 2013 : 11:50:10 PM
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Did all of that. Not the first Japanese knock to die! It always ran hot for some reason. I imagine the windings are no good and the mag is probably weakend. I emailed Dan to see if had one or any left over remotor kits.
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Posted - May 08 2013 : 01:59:27 AM
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The heat was a result of the weak magnet. It seems like most of those Japanese Pittman clones were weak from the get-go. You could do a rare earth magnet replacement if the plastic parts are intact.
Windings don't get weak, they either open up or short. A short will show itself very quickly with very high current draw, typically when the bad winding rotates into contact with the brushes, often stalling there. Running it in this state usually burns through the magnet wire, resulting in an open winding.
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Posted - May 08 2013 : 11:36:47 AM
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Actually had an import motor in here two, three weeks ago. Ran so hot you couldn't touch it, normal draw less than half amp max, this one was 2.5A full slip.
The copper commutator material had migrated....with a loupe, you could see it bridging the gap.
Cleaned it all out, full slip .3A.
Dave
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Posted - May 08 2013 : 12:26:54 PM
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Interesting. I've seen commutators fly apart before, but never seen the plates shift. Brush dust in the commutator gaps can act like a shorted winding, and is very common. Fooled me a few times before I realized that.
This is the motor from my Penn Line D1 Midget with a rebuilt commutator. It exploded on the first test run (the Midget was given to me in pieces), and I had to scour the room for all 5 segments. It was clearly subject to severe overheating, and the fiber disk against the windings was cooked. I tied the segments together with a loop of thread on the winding end, then sealed everything with CA, which also stabilized the cooked winding insulation. It runs well, but it has a balance issue that causes annoying vibration against the shell.
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Posted - May 08 2013 : 1:02:00 PM
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I've fixed them with JBQuik when they come loose completely, seems to hold up better long run than super glue.
The "shift" is metal migration. The issues I have seen is wear by brushes actually starts moving metal off the surface of the commutator and bridging the gap.
One of the reasons top always scrape out the gaps....even copper "dust" will cause bridging where you can't see it. High resistance that you might not pick up.
Dave
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Posted - May 10 2013 : 02:21:55 AM
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Posted - May 10 2013 : 10:56:47 PM
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| Bowser may or may not have one, but they get $25 or $35 for it.
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Posted - May 11 2013 : 12:03:28 AM
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They don't have any motors left except for one which is the wrong motor. It's a 77 I think.
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