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Author Previous Topic: A Study in Mikados Topic Next Topic: Circa 1965 F9 locomotive kit  

siouxlake
Hudson

Status: offline

 Posted - May 01 2013 :  5:46:22 PM Link directly to this topic  Show Profile  Add siouxlake to Buddylist
Okay, I have read up on the PT motor and its issues, downloaded every image I could find on the PT, remotor ing with a CD drive motor, the goingincircles excellent full treatment article (illustrated) about PT repair and maintenance, etc. I feel prepared to start the analysis and evaluation process this weekend. (despite all my ongoing multiple projects).

So far, I have been able to replace the cheesy front wheel with an Intermountain 33 inch wheel, except I probably should file the end points of the axle flat (haven't looked at any regular 2-8-0 images yet).

The PT motor looks to be one of the later versions, either series 3 or 4. Needs a good cleaning, which I will do as per the method in the "Circlez" article. I noticed a slight crack in the rear trailing tender plastic wheel - critical?
I ran it on my test track and it was slow in reverse and hesitant in forward drive, so I am thinking the cleaning and a good lube would be the first fix.

I saw some amount of dust and debris/hair when I took the tender shell off, but it seems as if it was stored in the brown box, not left out on a layout intermittently run or such.

Has anyone switched out the bulb lite for a LED? Looks like a 3mm would work best. The rear light molding on the tender cries out for an LED as well- measured the molded hole as 3mm also. I think a simple reversed wiring for the rear would be best, as the only time it would be visible is without any other cars in tow, running in reverse.

Couplers! Which Kadee ones are best, whisker or the old style ones with the spring? I can find the model number on the Kadee site, unless someone wants to reply with their knowledge of how best to fit it in and which one is the proper coupler.

The tender and loco shells will need a strip bath and a paint job. I intend to decal this for the Great Northern or my own Sioux Lake Line.

Any comments on the above would be appreciated.

Siouxlake Ron
 Country: USA  ~  Posts: 510  ~  Member Since: September 21 2011  ~  Last Visit: December 21 2014 Alert Moderator 

Redneck Justin
Big Boy



The Young Dr.Frankenstein!

Status: offline

 Posted - May 01 2013 :  10:55:34 PM Link directly to this reply  Show Profile  Add Redneck Justin to Buddylist
A Kadee #158 and a Talgo adapter is gonna be your best friend. I've removed a Kadee #5 with a adapter and rather annoying to install I imagine. There ain't really any kind of room to body mount a box.
" Heck with counting 'em rivets, TRAINS ARE FOR FUN! Not called the Mad Scientist for nothing either!"
 Country: USA  ~  Posts: 3147  ~  Member Since: May 07 2007  ~  Last Visit: February 09 2026 Alert Moderator  Go To Top Of Page

NickelPlate759
Big Boy



Rivarossi Logo

Status: offline

 Posted - May 08 2013 :  12:01:12 AM Link directly to this reply  Show Profile  Add NickelPlate759 to Buddylist
Ron, the crack is only critical if it's in a geared wheel, since it results in split gear syndrome and also slips on the axle. The dummy wheel isn't critical unless it's loose, but you can swap it for a good one from any diesel junker.

3 mm LED's should fit front & rear, and all you should need is the limiting resistor. LED's are directional be default, and I haven't had any burn out due to reverse polarity through the resistor. Just remember that when a Tyco 2-8-0 is running backwards it's actually forwards.

Just clean & degrease the motor, polish the commutator, and strip any excess oil out of the brushes with a nice solvent bath if they need it. Oil the brush side bearing with only a fractional drop of oil.

The Tyco Depot
 Country: USA  ~  Posts: 3927  ~  Member Since: June 20 2007  ~  Last Visit: November 19 2015 Alert Moderator  Go To Top Of Page
  Previous Topic: A Study in Mikados Topic Next Topic: Circa 1965 F9 locomotive kit  
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