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Posted - December 06 2012 : 10:38:31 PM
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tell me how to open up my Silver Streak. It's not been used much and nothing turns. Feel like I'm going to break shell when I try to remove it to access pt. What do you pry on first to remove? Thanks in advance!
RTR
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Posted - December 06 2012 : 11:32:30 PM
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I spread the shell apart by hand and then squeeze a flat head screw driver in gingerly and pry it againist the top portion of the block and pull down with free hand. Just don't over do it.
" Heck with counting 'em rivets, TRAINS ARE FOR FUN! Not called the Mad Scientist for nothing either!"
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Posted - December 07 2012 : 12:36:23 AM
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Remove the fuel tank first by spreading the shell apart first in front of, then behind the tank, until the tabs release. This can be tricky at first, but once the tank is out of the way there's more "give" to the shell for removing the trucks.
Eventually once you get comfortable and familiar with it, you can pop the motor truck out in seconds while blind without removing anything else (gotta be careful of the wires, though).
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Posted - December 07 2012 : 2:20:38 PM
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Thanks to both of you guys. Managed to get to motor, how do you remove the black pivot part covering the motor. I don't see any release points. Thank you
RTR
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Posted - December 07 2012 : 2:25:16 PM
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Might be a bit of a read, but just about everything you need to know about working on Tyco PT engines, I got you covered:
http://goingincirclez.com/TycoTrains/Guide/PowerTorqueRepair
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Posted - December 07 2012 : 3:52:10 PM
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Thanks Spider, that really helped me get it dismantled.
I cleaned and lubricated but engine isn't responding.. all wires are connected. Any ideas what might be wrong? It hasn't been used but maybe two times .
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Posted - December 07 2012 : 7:16:45 PM
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quote: I cleaned and lubricated but engine isn't responding.. all wires are connected.
Originally posted by RollTycoRoll - December 07 2012 : 3:52:10 PM
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The first thing you need to do is "process of elimination". If you have the motor out, take your power pack wires, and run them directly to the brush cover screws. The motor should fire right up, if not, then you have something VERY basic wrong. Brushes bad/not making contact, broken wires on the commutator, etc. Forget putting power to the wheels right now, run the power right to the two brush contact plates on the cover. Then if that works, move the power along the wires to the wheels to see where it is failing to deliver power.
jerry Electronics Tech
" When life throws you bananas...it's easy to slip up"
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Posted - December 07 2012 : 9:03:59 PM
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Make sure the pickup wheels are on opposite rails. It's easy to get them reversed on the dummy truck.
The Tyco Depot
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Posted - December 09 2012 : 12:32:02 PM
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Thanks, all tips helped me locate the problem. It's the motor cover plate that is slightly melted around a brush. Now I have two trains with bad motor covers :(
I guess I need to stock up on these asap
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Posted - December 09 2012 : 10:02:18 PM
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Is this what you need?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/160921814707?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649
Unspoken expectations are premeditated failures.
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Posted - December 09 2012 : 10:06:29 PM
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You could also use a CD-ROM remotor option in the future. I myself has yet to try this. Just clean the commutor really good with electric sensor/connector cleaner. You can buy that at a parts store. Let me see if I have those parts.
" Heck with counting 'em rivets, TRAINS ARE FOR FUN! Not called the Mad Scientist for nothing either!"
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Posted - December 09 2012 : 10:24:12 PM
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I'll second the CD-ROM remotor. I've done a couple with great results even on my first attempt. If you've got a Dremel it can be done easily. There should be plenty of info on the site for you.
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Posted - December 12 2012 : 6:40:54 PM
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quote:
Yes, that's it! I need two, used are fine, I think John has some to part with.
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