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 How to dismantle Mantua diesel motor
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Author Previous Topic: Tyco Union Pacific Topic Next Topic: Where to get wheels, truck, couplers etc.  

Tierod
Switcher

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 Posted - October 29 2012 :  05:44:08 AM Link directly to this topic  Show Profile  Add Tierod to Buddylist
I am new to the forum and so far impressed with the help you guys pass around. My problem, really two issues, are - the motor does not seam to be able to be dismantled. At both ends it appears to have rivets. I could drill the pins from the bottom but are the pins (rivets) replaceable. The reason I need to dismantle - 2nd issue - is that the transformer is glowing at full power indicating resistance, although the Diesel still runs all be it a little slower . Resistance is some where and thought it could be a build up of carbon on the contacts, but not sure. Maybe someone could suggest whats up. I run Tri-ang, Life-Like and Atlas and can usually get to the armature and points to clean but not with this unit.
I have attached a couple of pics to show the motor.
 Country: Australia  ~  Posts: 3  ~  Member Since: July 23 2012  ~  Last Visit: December 22 2012 Alert Moderator 

NickelPlate759
Big Boy



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 Posted - October 29 2012 :  08:14:12 AM Link directly to this reply  Show Profile  Add NickelPlate759 to Buddylist
Welcome, Emmanuel. Greetings from embattled New Jersey.

The rivets can be drilled out, but don't usually need to be to service the motor. You can soak the whole truck in alcohol and clean it with a brush, and use pipe cleaners to get into the recesses of the motor if necessary. You can even snap off the sideframes for easier access to the commutator, but you'll have to glue them back on.

The orange wire makes me suspicious tho, because I don't think it's original. It should go to the back of the headlight bulb. Check the the bulb is properly mounted, and that a frayed wire or bad solder job isn't causing a short.

The Tyco Depot
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weekendrailroader
Little Six

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 Posted - October 29 2012 :  08:15:01 AM Link directly to this reply  Show Profile  Add weekendrailroader to Buddylist
I've seen it done where people drill out the rivets, maintain the motor, and then replace those rivets with screws.
My Youtube Channel: http://www.youtube.com/user/weekendrailroader?blend=1&ob=video-mustangbase
 Country: USA  ~  Posts: 189  ~  Member Since: March 07 2012  ~  Last Visit: March 13 2024 Alert Moderator  Go To Top Of Page

AMC_Gremlin_GT
Big Boy



GremlinBL2

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 Posted - November 05 2012 :  11:54:54 PM Link directly to this reply  Show Profile  Send AMC_Gremlin_GT an AOL message  Send AMC_Gremlin_GT a Yahoo! Message  Add AMC_Gremlin_GT to Buddylist
quote:
I've seen it done where people drill out the rivets, maintain the motor, and then replace those rivets with screws.

Originally posted by weekendrailroader - October 29 2012 :  08:15:01 AM



The brushes can be removed, and the armature cleaned, without removing the rivets. But if you want to for ease of working on it, they can be replaced with super-long 2-56 screws and nuts ( done it before ). You'll probably have to find those screws online, as most hardware stores do NOT carry 2-56 screws, and not the super long ones you'd need anyway if they did. Some hobby shops carry 2-56, but again, rarely the long ones you'd need here. But if you are diligent and agile, you can remove the two brushes without disassembling the motor by drilling the rivets out. Could be there's metallic junk between the commutator pads, could be causing the problem. I'd remove the brushes, then clean it with alcohol.

Jerry

Jerry

" When life throws you bananas...it's easy to slip up"
 Country: USA  ~  Posts: 3974  ~  Member Since: January 04 2009  ~  Last Visit: January 11 2019 Alert Moderator  Go To Top Of Page

Tierod
Switcher

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 Posted - November 08 2012 :  8:01:44 PM Link directly to this reply  Show Profile  Add Tierod to Buddylist
I had a hell of a time trying to get to the web site. I thought Sandy submerged the server. Good to know you guys are back on line - a lot of Aussies have been following both Sandy's progress and the presidential election race - hope this next blower is a fizzer. Thanks Nickelplate, AMC Gremlin & Weekendrailroader, I idn't want to go that far and remove the revits until I heard back from the forum. The PENN is too good a runner to experiment on. I agree - the orange wire is foreign and I guess the joint or something in the motot is causing the resistance. I'll follow through and check both - wire first. I will try cleaing without disassembling but failing that - the thin bolt and nut may do the trick. Cheers
 Country: Australia  ~  Posts: 3  ~  Member Since: July 23 2012  ~  Last Visit: December 22 2012 Alert Moderator  Go To Top Of Page

NickelPlate759
Big Boy



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 Posted - November 08 2012 :  11:32:30 PM Link directly to this reply  Show Profile  Add NickelPlate759 to Buddylist
Yeah, we're back up & running here. Some close by are still without power. Cable service is spotty and went out again earlier tonight.

After a second look, there's a pretty messy blob where that wire is soldered to the post. That or stray strands could be shorting to the other brush.

The Tyco Depot
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Tierod
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 Posted - November 09 2012 :  03:57:10 AM Link directly to this reply  Show Profile  Add Tierod to Buddylist
You know when you guys in the states have a major problem I don't hear of many countries offering to give you a helping hand - but when they have a problem the States are usually the first to offer. Have a lot of respect for your self reliance. Good point about the messy blob. I'll be cleaning all that as I go.
 Country: Australia  ~  Posts: 3  ~  Member Since: July 23 2012  ~  Last Visit: December 22 2012 Alert Moderator  Go To Top Of Page
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