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 Posted - October 03 2012 : 10:53:31 PM
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Here is my Tyco score for the week, a mint in the box W&ARR 4-6-0. After unsticking the stuck armature, she runs like a normal open frame would, lots of ozone at first and very dry. Got her home and relubricated everything, she has replaceable bearings on the driver axles and not the axles on frame with no bearings. Really wish the current makers of the Helix Humper would do up a repower kit for these. A skewed armature motor would do wonders for this even without a flywheel. Going to put it on a test stand and let it just run for a few hours in each direction and see if she will limber up a bit more. Wants to run smooth but you can tell its stiff from sitting for so many years. Mike
Still NT's, I have Aspergers.
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Posted - October 03 2012 : 11:00:10 PM
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nice loco
Thats the one I needs parts for
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Posted - October 03 2012 : 11:59:43 PM
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i saw one for sale today at Hobby Recycling in Wyoming , MI
not sure the cost
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Posted - October 04 2012 : 01:39:29 AM
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Nice find.
I bought one of those new back in the mid 70s.
I still have some of it.
Ray
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Posted - October 04 2012 : 02:23:25 AM
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Nice find! I've been outbid on eBay on several of these lately - although I'm very cheap, I have put in higher bids than normal. I hope you enjoy your find - it looks like it will be a great addition to your layout! 
Starting my Tyco and other favorites collection over again after 37 years.
My still in progress list of inventory and wantlist: tyconut.com
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Posted - October 04 2012 : 08:27:07 AM
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The prices on ebay can get a bit out of hand sometimes. I shot off an email to yardbird to see if they have any suggestions on putting a can motor in one of these. I did all the tricks of the trade to the open frame motor. I think the magnet is weak, typical for one of these. If I cannot find a drop in motor, I might have to get some of those little neo magnets from Micro Mark and swap them into the motor, I have heard good things about them restoring old motor performance. Mike
Still NT's, I have Aspergers.
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Posted - October 04 2012 : 10:47:40 AM
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I've also heard you can use the motors out of an old CD-ROM drive as well - those can be very plentiful.
Starting my Tyco and other favorites collection over again after 37 years.
My still in progress list of inventory and wantlist: tyconut.com
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Posted - October 04 2012 : 11:49:45 AM
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quote:Nice find.
I bought one of those new back in the mid 70s.
I still have some of it.
Originally posted by Ray Marinaccio - October 04 2012 : 01:39:29 AM
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Hi Ray : I can see you have done a little work on the boiler. You have removed the smoke box extension, and repainted the complete boiler , smoke stack , and head light silver. The shortened boiled is very noticeable. It gives the model a unique appearance. I have also done that. Viewers of the photo should realize that it is just cutting a plastic boiler. There is also the die cast boiler weight to shorten and a Headlight to relocate. Have you replaced the domes or just removed the detail on there tops ? I notice you have removed the brake actuator and rebuilt the lower part of the ash box. Come to think of it, the generator is gone and so is the locomotive builders name place.
You have removed and replaced the boiler bands. All old cast on piping is gone. You have also replaced the compressor, whistle, and air tanks. Then added necessary piping for the compressor. Water fill line and injector are new. and sanding pipes. Is that a new bell ? Also the little things. Painting the tender steps, and the engineers window shelf supports. All done in silver. Also cant forget the white wall tires.
This was not just a boiler shortining !
toptrain1
PS : You have either created a very dangerous locomotive. Or have relocated the automatic over pressure release valve. When you ground it off of the top of the rear dome, you needed to replace it , somewhere.
toptrain
" It's a Heck of a Day " !!!
Edited by - toptrain on October 04 2012 12:33:04 PM
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Posted - October 04 2012 : 1:03:36 PM
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This was a kitbash I did a long time ago. (I trashed the original frame and boiler by attempting to shorten it).
The frame was an experimental scratch build. I soldered the Mantua bearings to a couple of 1/16" square brass tubes with brass plates soldered across them to mount the motor, cylinder and cross head guides. the pilot beam and pilot were built from scratch too.
The bottom frame cover is also 1/16" brass tube with brass cross plates.
The boiler is a brass boiler from the Mantua 8 ball. with the 10 wheeler boiler front. the headlight is a fabricated brass with the top from the 10 wheeler. Domes are from an AHM 0-4-0. Most of the other parts were built from scratch except for the obvious parts that came from the 10 wheeler. Someday I would like to get another Dixie Bell in like new condition.
Ray
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Posted - October 04 2012 : 1:39:24 PM
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The CD Rom motors are more for the power torque drive trucks I think. I am wondering if the helix humper repower kit for the 0-4-0 shifter would work? They are basicly the same motor and same driver assembly. Mike
Still NT's, I have Aspergers.
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Posted - October 04 2012 : 2:05:56 PM
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* Ray ; I once on a mantua 4-6-0 moved up the last driver. I did this on my B&O Hayes 10 wheeler I kitbashed.
* It ran fine. I changed the drivers to Varney. They looked better than the Mantua.
frznk
toptrain
" It's a Heck of a Day " !!!
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Posted - October 04 2012 : 2:10:38 PM
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quote: I am wondering if the helix humper repower kit for the 0-4-0 shifter would work? They are basicly the same motor and same driver assembly. Mike
Originally posted by cadetpwr - October 04 2012 : 1:39:24 PM
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I wonder if they will work also.
It may be worth looking into. There may be issues with the motor mount clearing the larger drivers but maybe not.
I have put motors like the FF-050SK in some MDC locos, that may work with a fabricated mount.
Ray
Edited by - Ray Marinaccio on October 04 2012 2:16:23 PM
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Posted - October 04 2012 : 2:14:34 PM
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quote:* Ray ; I once on a mantua 4-6-0 moved up the last driver. I did this on my B&O Hayes 10 wheeler I kitbashed.
* It ran fine. I changed the drivers to Varney. They looked better than the Mantua.
frznk
Originally posted by toptrain - October 04 2012 : 2:05:56 PM
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Nice kit-bash Frank, Looks great.
Ray
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Posted - October 04 2012 : 2:20:26 PM
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Mike, a motor from a newer Mantua like the current tank engine will work. I put one in my much older 0-4-o0 T. Runs quietly and pulls better. Also, it creeps better and pulls a little better.
" Heck with counting 'em rivets, TRAINS ARE FOR FUN! Not called the Mad Scientist for nothing either!"
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Posted - October 04 2012 : 4:32:14 PM
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Anyways, the Helix Humpers are overpriced for what the motors are. They're $10 iron 3-5 poled China motors with like a $5 gear added. I got the same W&A near mint with a box for $35! Then I got a ATSF 10 wheeler for $5! It needs a new tender to motor lead to run better.
" Heck with counting 'em rivets, TRAINS ARE FOR FUN! Not called the Mad Scientist for nothing either!"
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Posted - October 04 2012 : 5:44:58 PM
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I traded 2 books I didnt want anymore and $10 for this one. I agree, I dont think the Helix Humpers were as cheap a motor when they first came out. The newest ones got real cheap IMHO. Where would one get a Mantua can motor, does Model Power even stock parts anymore. I agree the new 0-6-0's run really smooth, used to have one. That motor would be nice if it could be bought affordably. Mike
Still NT's, I have Aspergers.
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Posted - October 04 2012 : 6:52:55 PM
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Nice work on the Ten Wheeler Ray
caboose 1
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Posted - October 04 2012 : 8:11:30 PM
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I am hoping to stay around the turn of the century with my current modeling scheme, working on a second engine, but its not Tyco or AHM, stay tuned! Mike
Still NT's, I have Aspergers.
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Posted - October 06 2012 : 11:23:51 PM
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| Originally posted by Ray Marinaccio - October 04 2012 : 01:39:29 AM
[/quote]
Hi Ray : I can see you have done a little work on the boiler. You have removed the smoke box extension, and repainted the complete boiler , smoke stack , and head light silver. The shortened boiled is very noticeable. It gives the model a unique appearance. I have also done that. Viewers of the photo should realize that it is just cutting a plastic boiler. There is also the die cast boiler weight to shorten and a Headlight to relocate. Have you replaced the domes or just removed the detail on there tops ? I notice you have removed the brake actuator and rebuilt the lower part of the ash box. Come to think of it, the generator is gone and so is the locomotive builders name place.
You have removed and replaced the boiler bands. All old cast on piping is gone. You have also replaced the compressor, whistle, and air tanks. Then added necessary piping for the compressor. Water fill line and injector are new. and sanding pipes. Is that a new bell ? Also the little things. Painting the tender steps, and the engineers window shelf supports. All done in silver. Also cant forget the white wall tires.
This was not just a boiler shortining !
toptrain1
PS : You have either created a very dangerous locomotive. Or have relocated the automatic over pressure release valve. When you ground it off of the top of the rear dome, you needed to replace it , somewhere.
Originally posted by toptrain - October 04 2012 : 11:49:45 AM
[/quote]
Having never done a real scratchbuilding project before, is this something I could start with? I LOVE the way that locomotive looks, it sounds rather inexpensive, and it would be the light motive power I'm looking for. Maybe I could even make it into an American... I need to get my workshop carved out of our basement clutter so I can try this!
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