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 Posted - July 15 2012 : 02:19:58 AM
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So I finally get the crosshead on the right main rod to stay on and I screwed down the lead motor wire to the tender and what do I get? Electrical problems... before it was running fine. I still have to finish the left main rod. Anyways I had to tighten the wheel trucks all the way down to get a decent enough current. Then it still wouldn't work. The screw holding the lead motor wire to the tender was all the way down and fine and conductive lubricant helped little. Anyone know what's wrong? I have to hold down the tender and move it side to side just to get the motor turned over.
I buy, repair, and collect
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http://www.youtube.com/user/TheDeputation?feature=watch
Hyde.
Edited by - SCVR66 on July 15 2012 02:25:53 AM
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 Posted - July 15 2012 : 08:42:41 AM
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| Sounds like a dead short to me...
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Posted - July 15 2012 : 1:06:56 PM
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It may be a short... Check the wheel sets to make sure one isn't turned around. In general I don't rely truck-to-tender contact alone... I usually solder a feeder wire to both trucks and hardwire it to the tender body. - Thomas
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Posted - July 15 2012 : 1:12:27 PM
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guys the drive wheels are fine I didnt touch the engine since its last test a week ago. The tender is my issue.
I buy, repair, and collect
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Hyde.
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Posted - July 15 2012 : 1:40:21 PM
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When I'm faced with this type of problem I get out my voltmeter (or continuity checker) and I start checking the electrical continuity from the wheels to the tender body, on both rail sides. Often I will find something that I didn't expect, like a piece of flash that was shorting a wheel on the insulated side.
It can be frustrating work, but eventually you will find the problem.
-Thomas
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Posted - July 15 2012 : 2:55:51 PM
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is it an issue with the pick up plates they gave me?
I buy, repair, and collect
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http://seyboldlocomotiveworks.weebly.com/
http://www.youtube.com/user/TheDeputation?feature=watch
Hyde.
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Posted - July 15 2012 : 5:07:44 PM
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You take pictures of your locos all the time, but why don't you post any when there are problems? There's no way we can troubleshoot it without seeing it and the orientation of the tender wheels, etc.
The Tyco Depot
Edited by - NickelPlate759 on July 15 2012 5:08:42 PM
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Posted - July 15 2012 : 6:55:21 PM
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true  but theres not really an obvious problem at least to me
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http://www.youtube.com/user/TheDeputation?feature=watch
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Posted - July 15 2012 : 6:58:49 PM
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 heres a not so great photo but both tender trucks look like this.
I buy, repair, and collect
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http://www.youtube.com/user/TheDeputation?feature=watch
Hyde.
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Posted - July 15 2012 : 7:00:30 PM
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you have mixed polarity on same trucks,both trucks should be negative one side positive the other not mixed on same truck ken
drivers side insulated,engineers side positive
in your photo the wheel to right has negative to top,where as the left hand wheels have negative to bottom
Edited by - catfordken on July 15 2012 7:07:35 PM
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Posted - July 15 2012 : 7:12:18 PM
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Ohhhhh thank you very much Ken!! Guess I left that out when assembling the tender. Woops 
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http://seyboldlocomotiveworks.weebly.com/
http://www.youtube.com/user/TheDeputation?feature=watch
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Posted - July 15 2012 : 7:20:18 PM
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just to make sure in my photo the wheels to top are insulated as are the other truck wheels,ie insulated wheels both on drivers side ken
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Posted - July 15 2012 : 7:35:10 PM
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quote:you have mixed polarity on same trucks,both trucks should be negative one side positive the other not mixed on same truck ken
drivers side insulated,engineers side positive
in your photo the wheel to right has negative to top,where as the left hand wheels have negative to bottom
Originally posted by catfordken - July 15 2012 : 7:00:30 PM
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Yup...dead short...
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Posted - July 15 2012 : 7:35:31 PM
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Like I said...
The Tyco Depot
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Posted - July 15 2012 : 7:36:30 PM
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...yes...I've NEVER done anything like that...
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Posted - July 15 2012 : 7:36:48 PM
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Just fixed it an tested it and now it's running fabulous! Thank you very much!! Now onto the next problem. While running her crosshead on the right side rod broke off the main rod well I thought they had finally attached but guess not. So I have no idea how to keep the crosshead on the drive rod. For nelsons sake I'll upload a photo later.
I buy, repair, and collect
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Posted - July 15 2012 : 7:49:31 PM
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just hope you got the quartering right,ken
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Posted - July 15 2012 : 7:50:10 PM
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Sounds like you're not getting the rivet spread out enough. What are you using to flare it? An awl or tapered nail punch should do the trick.
The Tyco Depot
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Posted - July 15 2012 : 7:58:40 PM
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Nelson I assume your right but it's hard to do what the instructions are telling me, a photo will be posted later tonight but this is the last thing i need before I have my first 2-8-0 operable!!
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Posted - July 15 2012 : 10:20:06 PM
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If the rivet is mashed or damaged it would be hard to make it stay in place.
The Tyco Depot
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Posted - July 15 2012 : 10:42:37 PM
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 the pin on the crosshead is fine but how am i supposed to keep the crosshead on?! The instructions make no sense.
I buy, repair, and collect
http://scvr.weebly.com/
http://seyboldlocomotiveworks.weebly.com/
http://www.youtube.com/user/TheDeputation?feature=watch
Hyde.
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Posted - July 15 2012 : 11:30:24 PM
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From what I can see of the upside-down crosshead in your photo, it looks like the pin is a rivet that needs to be flared. The instructions don't make a lot of sense, I'll grant you.
I don't know if "slightly upset" means bend, flare, or insult it.
The Tyco Depot
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Posted - July 15 2012 : 11:55:41 PM
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Yeah those are the instructions all right. Except I have a better motor in my 2-8-0 then the one shown where's frank? I told him a while ago I'd show him my problem. Anybody know how to do this? I assume "upset" the pin means expand it somehow but I'm not sure.
I buy, repair, and collect
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http://seyboldlocomotiveworks.weebly.com/
http://www.youtube.com/user/TheDeputation?feature=watch
Hyde.
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Posted - July 16 2012 : 07:17:04 AM
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| They're asking you to peen the stud over...flare it out slightly without going too wide and gorming up the flexibility of the joint.
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Posted - July 16 2012 : 10:42:48 PM
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in english please sorry there are some terms i dont understand
I buy, repair, and collect
http://scvr.weebly.com/
http://seyboldlocomotiveworks.weebly.com/
http://www.youtube.com/user/TheDeputation?feature=watch
Hyde.
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Posted - July 17 2012 : 03:35:02 AM
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quote:They're asking you to peen the stud over...flare it out slightly without going too wide and gorming up the flexibility of the joint.
Originally posted by shaygetz - July 16 2012 : 07:17:04 AM
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quote:| in english please sorry there are some terms i dont understand |
Originally posted by SCVR66
[/quote]
Peened/Flare... make a mushroom out of the end of the rivet. But carefully as not too large because of possible binding and misfitting happens.
John
I don't have a one track mind. It depends on the turn-out.
"I love your catenary!"
Is that a power-trip or just another pick-up line?
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Posted - July 17 2012 : 11:12:56 AM
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oh okay but how am i supposed to do that? The flathead screw driver technique it says to use hasnt worked
I buy, repair, and collect
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http://seyboldlocomotiveworks.weebly.com/
http://www.youtube.com/user/TheDeputation?feature=watch
Hyde.
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Posted - July 24 2012 : 01:34:49 AM
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quote:oh okay but how am i supposed to do that? The flathead screw driver technique it says to use hasnt worked
Originally posted by SCVR66Â -Â July 17 2012Â :Â 11:12:56 AM
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Screw driver, flat head... no.
Phillips, or a Rogers (boxhead), directly in the middle of the stud... to spread it out.
Sometimes, a "nail-set" tool is useful.
The idea is to make that rivet wider than the hole. The same principle as a pop-rivet gun.
John
I don't have a one track mind. It depends on the turn-out.
"I love your catenary!"
Is that a power-trip or just another pick-up line?
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Posted - July 24 2012 : 11:23:38 AM
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oh okay thanks john!! I've put off the completion to work on other engines, but now i'll get back to work.
I buy, repair, and collect
http://scvr.weebly.com/
http://seyboldlocomotiveworks.weebly.com/
http://www.youtube.com/user/TheDeputation?feature=watch
Hyde.
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Posted - July 24 2012 : 5:14:24 PM
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quote:oh okay thanks john!! I've put off the completion to work on other engines, but now i'll get back to work.
Originally posted by SCVR66Â -Â July 24 2012Â :Â 11:23:38 AM
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A previous quote you had some weeks ago... quote:| " While running her crosshead on the right side rod broke off the main rod well I thought they had finally attached but guess not." |
Broke off?  Perhaps you need to make sure there is enough "rivet" or "stud" in order to "disturb", flatten, mushroom, peen. 
Dismantle the rod-set, put the "stud" through the hole, flatten (etc) the rivet, reassemble.
Oh, take pictures of this progress. I believe other people will find this process very helpful AND instructional! 
Who knows... you may get your OWN COLUMN in this forum. 
Then again, perhaps not. 
John
I don't have a one track mind. It depends on the turn-out.
"I love your catenary!"
Is that a power-trip or just another pick-up line?
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Posted - July 24 2012 : 6:06:24 PM
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well a few weeks ago i sprayed paint onto a little toothpick then swabbed it all over the pin. It held up pretty well but i just did this to see if it ran well with the rods and if the valve guides were good. I'l get to work on it soon. Later today im going to see a craigslist add to possibly purchase so that'll come first
I buy, repair, and collect
http://scvr.weebly.com/
http://seyboldlocomotiveworks.weebly.com/
http://www.youtube.com/user/TheDeputation?feature=watch
Hyde.
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