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 Posted - July 09 2012 : 10:15:07 PM
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Darth Santa Fe here! I already posted my introduction in the appropriate forum, but I thought a better intro would be one of my finished projects.
This is one I did a while ago, and I think it's been linked somewhere around here before by another member when I put it on the MRR forum. I bought a junker Chattanooga at a train show a few years ago, and getting it to run up to my standards seemed hopeless, so I did a complete rebuild!
Here's what I started with, minus the PT drive unit and with a front axle added. Didn't look so good...
The replacement chassis in its early stages. I've since added better truck retainers, a constant forward lighting circuit, and removed some of the weight (too much drag for the small motor). The trucks and frame are built completely from scratch, the gearing and sideframes are all Athearn, the wheels are Intermountain 33" freight car axles, the motor is a 7-pole coreless type by Maxon, and the flywheels and universals are NWSL. It's not a heavy hauler, but it sure is smooth, and it's got more power than the old PT motor!
Added some detail, and then got lazy for about a year and made little progress.
Finally kicked myself into "finish this up you slacker!" mode and started on painting, and...
Finally finished! I get the feeling the NYC didn't have anything like this, but I don't really care. The Tyco Chattanooga was a fantasy steam engine built from the Mantua USRA 0-8-0 molds, so might as well have fantasy paint for added fun! All this to make a cheap plastic steam engine run a little better...
Darth Santa Fe, doing weird and challenging projects for the fun of it!
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 Posted - July 09 2012 : 10:42:17 PM
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Still looks great, Darth. I'm surprised you had to remove weight, since even small can motors can pack quite a punch. How many ounces did you put in it?
Also, how do you go about balancing the flywheels? Do you just mark the high spot with a marker, or do you put it on a shaft and rest it across parallel razor blades and mark the heavy spot as when balancing motor armatures?
The Tyco Depot
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Posted - July 10 2012 : 12:58:31 AM
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Nice work Darth.
Welcome aboard.
Ray
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Posted - July 10 2012 : 01:28:00 AM
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All I can say is WOW!
I buy, repair, and collect
http://scvr.weebly.com/
http://seyboldlocomotiveworks.weebly.com/
http://www.youtube.com/user/TheDeputation?feature=watch
Hyde.
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Posted - July 10 2012 : 06:49:30 AM
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While I'm not a much of a steam fan this is impressive!
Alco Fan
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Posted - July 10 2012 : 08:30:29 AM
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| hi darth Santa fe,funny I was talking with member about this self same loco,great work,and lovely looking paint job ken
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Posted - July 10 2012 : 11:43:01 AM
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what years did tyco make full valve gear for the PT steamers? I dont recall the valve gear like on my clementine its just side rods and the main rod. Usually the mantuas had valve gear
I buy, repair, and collect
http://scvr.weebly.com/
http://seyboldlocomotiveworks.weebly.com/
http://www.youtube.com/user/TheDeputation?feature=watch
Hyde.
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Posted - July 10 2012 : 11:55:56 AM
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thanks to your question which i cannot answer,i found this info in mantua steam loco resources a very handy bit of the site and its quicker to find info,found locos i did not know about ken
http://www.ho-scaletrains.net/mantua-locos/id60.html
Edited by - catfordken on July 10 2012 12:36:59 PM
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Posted - July 10 2012 : 2:25:51 PM
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Ray,
Welcome back, stranger!
SCVRR, the first Chattanoogas were Consolidations with full valve gear and a top mounted headlight, but they were cheapened over the years. I got mine in 1975 when they were new. It looked nice, but that drive... oy!
http://tycotrain.tripod.com/steamengines/id2.html
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Posted - July 10 2012 : 3:21:27 PM
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| Darth, that tender drive is sweet! It never occurred to me to use Athearn components but it makes total sense now that I see it. Great work! - Thomas
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Posted - July 10 2012 : 3:26:18 PM
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| It looks great! I never would have recognized it as a Tyco Welcome to the forum!
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Posted - July 10 2012 : 7:55:41 PM
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Thanks a lot everyone!
My Chattanooga didn't originally have a valve gear or front axle, so I made the front truck from scratch, and Nelson (NickelPlate759) was kind enough to sell me an extra valve gear he had.
The motor is actually smaller than it looks in the picture. The torque is about double that of a typical N-scale motor, but about half that of a small HO motor. I had 5oz of lead in the shell, and the chassis weighs a few more, so combined with the 12:1 Athearn gearing, the weight was just a little too much for the small motor. Removing 2oz seems to have given it a good power to weight ratio, and it doesn't run like it's loaded down anymore.
Darth Santa Fe, doing weird and challenging projects for the fun of it!
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Posted - July 10 2012 : 9:10:21 PM
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Well to answer the question on the TYCO 2-8-0 and even the 0-8-0, They sold the "set locomotives in sets, without valve gear.....The locomotives that had complete valve gear were the single locomotive shelf sales. Which is what partly classed them under their marketing at TYCO as "high end" which did give them more sales as the self locomotives and not the set locomotives had more detail.....
~John
Many have tried to, and failed, ya just can't repair stupid... 
Do NOT try to Idiot-Proof anything!!!! God, will simply create a better......IDIOT!
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Posted - July 10 2012 : 9:11:55 PM
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Brandon,
Now for a question, what type of gear box did you use to mouth the Barber trucks too? Needless to say thats an impressive set up, but my question is, is what kind of pulling power does it have?
~John
Many have tried to, and failed, ya just can't repair stupid...
Do NOT try to Idiot-Proof anything!!!! God, will simply create a better......IDIOT!
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Posted - July 10 2012 : 10:00:25 PM
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Except for the gears and wheels, the trucks are made completely from scratch using brass sheet and tubing. The sideframes are mounted by hanging them off the needlepoint axles, kind of like you'll find in some of the old Hobbytown, Lindsay, and brass diesels.
I haven't tested the pulling power, but I think it can haul at least 20 free rolling cars. I usually make it pull about a dozen 40' to 50' cars around the layout without any trouble.
Darth Santa Fe, doing weird and challenging projects for the fun of it!
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Posted - August 12 2012 : 11:37:38 PM
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Darth Santa Fe
The repowering job you did on your 2-8-0 tender is outstanding. Could you expand and show pics of the trucks? I would love to see some detailed info on how you built those trucks, as I have a tender powered loco made in Brazil that I would like to repower. It's a Model Power 2-8-0 that had a terrible drive in it just about like that original Tyco drive.
My first HO loco purchase back in the 70's was a Tyco Royal Blue. That awful tender drive only lasted about 3 months so I put the engine on my shelf where it sat for many years. I used to look at it and admire it, thinking that some day I would find a way to get it going again. Then one day I discovered that IHC had used the very same boiler for their 2-8-0. That gave me the idea to place and IHC drive under the Royal Blue, thereby putting the power back under the engine, instead of the tender, where it belonged. I did just that and now it is one of my best running engines ever. I reworked the oringinal tender with IHC trucks and scratch built a new frame for it. Everytime I run it, it gives me fond memories of my first loco purchase.
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Posted - August 13 2012 : 09:53:17 AM
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I'm thinking now I went the " cheap" way with "frankentender"
just me Ray... and just because I have Tyco doesn't mean I am not a model railroader
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Posted - August 18 2012 : 3:04:30 PM
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quote:Darth Santa Fe
The repowering job you did on your 2-8-0 tender is outstanding. Could you expand and show pics of the trucks? I would love to see some detailed info on how you built those trucks, as I have a tender powered loco made in Brazil that I would like to repower. It's a Model Power 2-8-0 that had a terrible drive in it just about like that original Tyco drive.
My first HO loco purchase back in the 70's was a Tyco Royal Blue. That awful tender drive only lasted about 3 months so I put the engine on my shelf where it sat for many years. I used to look at it and admire it, thinking that some day I would find a way to get it going again. Then one day I discovered that IHC had used the very same boiler for their 2-8-0. That gave me the idea to place and IHC drive under the Royal Blue, thereby putting the power back under the engine, instead of the tender, where it belonged. I did just that and now it is one of my best running engines ever. I reworked the oringinal tender with IHC trucks and scratch built a new frame for it. Everytime I run it, it gives me fond memories of my first loco purchase.
Originally posted by Richard - August 12 2012 : 11:37:38 PM
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Well my God! Hey Dick......I had to find this posting from the e-mail you sent me.....
I too would like to see an expanded picture of what the trucks under that tender looks like as its a VERY interesting and not to mention GREAT looking design!
Dick,
You think I ought to post the building of the 0-10-0?
~John
Many have tried to, and failed, ya just can't repair stupid...
Do NOT try to Idiot-Proof anything!!!! God, will simply create a better......IDIOT!
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Posted - August 20 2012 : 10:30:17 PM
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John,
I certainly do think you should post your 0-10-0. This would be the perfect place to do it, since it is a Tyco/Mantua kit-bash. Nice meeting you on here. I just tried to email Darth Santa Fe to try and get his attention but apparently i am not authorized to email members yet. Maybe you could email him to let him know we both liked his work and want some detailed info on what trucks he used with pics, if possible.
Dick
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Posted - August 20 2012 : 10:31:16 PM
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John,
I certainly do think you should post your 0-10-0. This would be the perfect place to do it, since it is a Tyco/Mantua kit-bash. Nice meeting you on here. I just tried to email Darth Santa Fe to try and get his attention but apparently i am not authorized to email members yet. Maybe you could email him to let him know we both liked his work and want some detailed info on what trucks he used with pics, if possible.
Dick
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Posted - August 20 2012 : 10:32:42 PM
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John,
I certainly do think you should post your 0-10-0. This would be the perfect place to do it, since it is a Tyco/Mantua kit-bash. Nice meeting you on here. I just tried to email Darth Santa Fe to try and get his attention but apparently i am not authorized to email members yet. Maybe you could email him to let him know we both liked his work and want some detailed info on what trucks he used with pics, if possible.
Dick
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Posted - August 20 2012 : 10:35:20 PM
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Dick,
Let me see if I can e-mail him....
As for such I did post the 0-10-0, (I think!)
BUT, I know I posted alot of others I've done!
~John
Many have tried to, and failed, ya just can't repair stupid...
Do NOT try to Idiot-Proof anything!!!! God, will simply create a better......IDIOT!
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Posted - August 21 2012 : 7:31:31 PM
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Well, I haven't gotten any e-mails or PMs, but I'll try to get some good pictures of the trucks up for you guys in a little bit.
Darth Santa Fe, doing weird and challenging projects for the fun of it!
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Posted - August 21 2012 : 7:53:05 PM
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quote:John,
I certainly do think you should post your 0-10-0. This would be the perfect place to do it, since it is a Tyco/Mantua kit-bash. Nice meeting you on here. I just tried to email Darth Santa Fe to try and get his attention but apparently i am not authorized to email members yet. Maybe you could email him to let him know we both liked his work and want some detailed info on what trucks he used with pics, if possible.
Dick
Originally posted by Richard - August 20 2012 : 10:32:42 PM
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Dick,
I can't get his e-mail either!
As for Darth Santa Fe, Its good to see your around, Richard, and myself are interested in seeing close ups of the trucks under this tyco.......
I tried to e-mail you and it won't let me so it is good to see you are reading the messages Richard (Dick) and I have been posting on with this locomotive!
~John
Many have tried to, and failed, ya just can't repair stupid...
Do NOT try to Idiot-Proof anything!!!! God, will simply create a better......IDIOT!
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Posted - August 21 2012 : 7:53:48 PM
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quote:John,
I certainly do think you should post your 0-10-0. This would be the perfect place to do it, since it is a Tyco/Mantua kit-bash. Nice meeting you on here. I just tried to email Darth Santa Fe to try and get his attention but apparently i am not authorized to email members yet. Maybe you could email him to let him know we both liked his work and want some detailed info on what trucks he used with pics, if possible.
Dick
Originally posted by Richard - August 20 2012 : 10:32:42 PM
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Dick,
I can't get his e-mail either!
As for Darth Santa Fe, Its good to see your around, Richard, and myself are interested in seeing close ups of the trucks under this tyco.......
I tried to e-mail you and it won't let me so it is good to see you are reading the messages Richard (Dick) and I have been posting on with this locomotive!
~John
Many have tried to, and failed, ya just can't repair stupid...
Do NOT try to Idiot-Proof anything!!!! God, will simply create a better......IDIOT!
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Posted - August 21 2012 : 11:18:20 PM
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My account is setup to receive e-mails, so I don't know why it isn't working?
Anyway, here are the photos!
I added V-shaped bars to the end of each truck as a secondary retainer, because I was having problems with them falling out. Everything's worked perfect since!
The trucks are basically compressed Athearn F7 trucks. The worms drives a 23 tooth gear, which drives the first axle and a set of 16 tooth idlers to the second axle. It's kind of hard to get good photos, but I think you can see how I did it for the most part.
I can't believe I forgot to link this before, but I made a video of it running!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YZbFRhN25_g
It's a smooth one alright!
(1/14/13 - Pictures in this post went all weird. Edited them back in)
Darth Santa Fe, doing weird and challenging projects for the fun of it!
Edited by - Darth Santa Fe on September 21 2014 11:02:11 PM
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Posted - August 22 2012 : 06:51:38 AM
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It sure does look GREAT and that repower is impressive to say the least!
I still think that the power should be in the locomotive on its drivers and then all the weight possible stuffed in there for tractive effort. BUT this tender repower looks AWESOME!
The sides of the trucks, interior, is that made of sheet brass? The sections that hold the internal gearing before the axle gears? It looks to be painted......
~John
Many have tried to, and failed, ya just can't repair stupid...
Do NOT try to Idiot-Proof anything!!!! God, will simply create a better......IDIOT!
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Posted - August 22 2012 : 10:26:32 AM
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Silly thought on that, what if both the loco and the tender were powered? Wouldn't that increase the pull?
just me Ray... and just because I have Tyco doesn't mean I am not a model railroader
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Posted - August 22 2012 : 4:08:32 PM
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Darth Santa Fe
Many thanks for the photos and explanation of how you made those trunks and also for the video of your nice engine. Now comes the hard part, to see if I can duplicate something like that for my project.
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Posted - August 22 2012 : 6:17:59 PM
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quote:Silly thought on that, what if both the loco and the tender were powered? Wouldn't that increase the pull?
Originally posted by rgcw5Â -Â August 22 2012Â :Â 10:26:32 AM
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It would! It be like an Athearn DD-40 with 2 motors, more or less, BUT then you up the DC voltage 12 volts, times 2, and then that ups the AMPs as well, so with all that extra work, would you be able to stuff enough weight inside the thing to keep the drivers and powered trucks making contact with the rail, instead of slip?
Alot goes into things like this, just to make sure the effort is worth the end result!
~John
Many have tried to, and failed, ya just can't repair stupid...
Do NOT try to Idiot-Proof anything!!!! God, will simply create a better......IDIOT!
Edited by - EM-1 on August 22 2012 6:57:32 PM
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Posted - August 22 2012 : 6:49:42 PM
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Nice work building the trucks Darth.
quote:I still think that the power should be in the locomotive on its drivers and then all the weight possible stuffed in there for tractive effort.
Originally posted by EM-1Â -Â August 22 2012Â :Â 06:51:38 AM
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I tried that. It worked out great but was a bit of work.
http://www.2guyz.info/Forums/viewtopic/t=558.html
Ray
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Posted - August 22 2012 : 6:59:56 PM
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Ray,
I have too! Have a look at this:
Yes, I'm always at it! I took 2 TYCO 0-8-0's, and made it into a 0-10-0, to be a B&O U-1....
Its designed like a Mantua 2-8-2 or 4-6-2 is done with the motor.....
I must say tho, this little thing runs really well in its current condition, I have along ways to go on him as well!
The motor and custom made mount:
This is the way the motor is tensioned to keep good gear mesh:
ENJOY!
~John
Many have tried to, and failed, ya just can't repair stupid...
Do NOT try to Idiot-Proof anything!!!! God, will simply create a better......IDIOT!
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Posted - August 22 2012 : 7:46:27 PM
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THAT'LL WORK.
I do like the idea of a better tender drive that can be used with smaller locomotives though.
Ray
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Posted - August 23 2012 : 05:48:20 AM
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Ray,
It was alittle bit of work to make that 0-8-0 into a 0-10-0, but then to add in the power drive on the drivers and not the tender made the job even more intense but, I guess if anyone would try such a task, it would have been me!
~John
Many have tried to, and failed, ya just can't repair stupid...
Do NOT try to Idiot-Proof anything!!!! God, will simply create a better......IDIOT!
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Posted - September 01 2012 : 12:58:29 PM
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EM-1, I considered putting the drive in the engine, but the tender repower seemed like the better option after close examination of the whole thing. Except for some sheet mylar and copper here and there, the frame and trucks are all brass. Nice 0-10-0 project, by the way!
rgcw5, I've actually had that same idea before! After thinking more about it though, the difference in drive wheel size between the engine and tender would make it difficult to match the gear ratios very well.
Richard, just take your time to do things right, and I'm sure you can make something great!
Ray Marinaccio, that's a great repower in your Chattanooga! It looks like yours came with a metal weight in the engine? Mine only had a huge plastic smoke unit filling the boiler, so I wouldn't have been able to give mine a repower like that. In fact, I left the boiler in mine empty all together (except for a couple parts to screw into), so its only actual weight is the metal frame.
Darth Santa Fe, doing weird and challenging projects for the fun of it!
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Posted - September 01 2012 : 2:05:09 PM
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quote:
Ray Marinaccio, that's a great repower in your Chattanooga! It looks like yours came with a metal weight in the engine? Mine only had a huge plastic smoke unit filling the boiler, so I wouldn't have been able to give mine a repower like that. In fact, I left the boiler in mine empty all together (except for a couple parts to screw into), so its only actual weight is the metal frame.
Originally posted by Darth Santa Fe - September 01 2012 : 12:58:29 PM
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Thanks Darth,
Of all the Tyco 0-8-0 and 2-8-0 locos I came across, only a couple had that metal smoke generator.
I probably would have went a different route if I didn't have the metal weight.
I did put a NWSL 36/1 gearbox in a 2-8-2 kitbash using the Tyco 0-8-0 chassis, it took a fair amount of filing on the frame though and cost a bit more.
anyway, looking at your truck designs is giving me some ideas for a set of new trucks for the MDC box cab/climax locomotives.
Ray
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Posted - January 15 2013 : 06:53:08 AM
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| excellent job,in the video it looks like a very smooth runner.
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Posted - January 15 2013 : 08:29:22 AM
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quote: quote:
Ray Marinaccio, that's a great repower in your Chattanooga! It looks like yours came with a metal weight in the engine? Mine only had a huge plastic smoke unit filling the boiler, so I wouldn't have been able to give mine a repower like that. In fact, I left the boiler in mine empty all together (except for a couple parts to screw into), so its only actual weight is the metal frame.
Originally posted by Darth Santa Fe - September 01 2012 : 12:58:29 PM
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Thanks Darth,
Of all the Tyco 0-8-0 and 2-8-0 locos I came across, only a couple had that metal smoke generator.
I probably would have went a different route if I didn't have the metal weight.
I did put a NWSL 36/1 gearbox in a 2-8-2 kitbash using the Tyco 0-8-0 chassis, it took a fair amount of filing on the frame though and cost a bit more.
anyway, looking at your truck designs is giving me some ideas for a set of new trucks for the MDC box cab/climax locomotives.
Originally posted by Ray Marinaccio - September 01 2012 : 2:05:09 PM
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Ray,
Where did you see a posting or shots of the MDC/Roundhouse Climax Boxcab diesel trucks? You got my attention now! (I too, am looking for a better truck gearing for that same locomotive!!)
~John
Many have tried to, and failed, ya just can't repair stupid...
Do NOT try to Idiot-Proof anything!!!! God, will simply create a better......IDIOT!
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Jim
Little Six
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Posted - January 15 2013 : 6:37:15 PM
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| nice work, very good :)
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Last Visit: December 23 2013
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Posted - April 08 2013 : 08:55:17 AM
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| Impressive, do you have any plans to DCC it?
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Posted - November 29 2014 : 12:57:32 PM
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Darth,
How did you achieve that nice lettering?
~ Dave
~ Dave
They're ALL toys
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Posted - November 30 2014 : 12:51:22 AM
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quote:How did you achieve that nice lettering?
Originally posted by RDC1Â -Â November 29 2014Â :Â 12:57:32 PM
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Microscale decals. The thin film and high quality print give a near factory quality finish, and they're pretty easy to work with! A setting solution such as Walthers Solvaset helps them to perfectly conform to all the details beneath them, like rivets and doors.
Darth Santa Fe, doing weird and challenging projects for the fun of it!
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Posted - November 30 2014 : 06:12:41 AM
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Very nice! I hope I have the same results.
~ Dave
They're ALL toys
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Posted - December 08 2014 : 2:02:31 PM
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Great work! Where did you get the running gear details? I have that same Tyco, would love to spruce the drive rods up.
Tim
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Posted - December 24 2014 : 4:50:27 PM
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I bought them from another forum member who had an extra set. They're actually official Tyco Chattanooga parts, but they only came on the stand-alone models (not the train set ones).
Darth Santa Fe, doing weird and challenging projects for the fun of it!
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Last Visit: January 23 2025
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Posted - December 24 2014 : 10:58:15 PM
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Thanks for the info. I'll check around.
Tim
quote:I bought them from another forum member who had an extra set. They're actually official Tyco Chattanooga parts, but they only came on the stand-alone models (not the train set ones).
Originally posted by Darth Santa Fe - December 24 2014 : 4:50:27 PM
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