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 Posted - March 19 2012 : 10:20:52 PM
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Hi all.
I'm working on getting my Athearn RDC running again. I bought it and a dummy RDC for $10 total at a train show in February. The motor runs, but she needs almost 100% throttle to get her moving, and her motor gets hot in no time at all. With the driveshafts disconnected, she runs fairly smoothly with very little power, but hook up those driveshafts, and she starts cooking. I've had the power pack go into "Overload" mode a couple times when she gets too hot.
So, anyone have any tips on how to fix this issue? Were the Hi-F motors just poor runners? I have one other operational rubber band drive GP7, but she has an aftermarket motor (very loud but fairly smooth).
Thanks. 
My Youtube Channel: http://www.youtube.com/user/weekendrailroader?blend=1&ob=video-mustangbase
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 Posted - March 19 2012 : 10:50:16 PM
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I don't think they were all poor runners. You may just have one with burnt armature wiring, weak magnet, etc. Although from what I read, usually a weak magnet makes it run FASTER, but pulls more current and gets hot. I'd look to see if there is crud packed between the armature pads, in the separation between copper pads. BUild-up there could cause a short, loss of power due to resistance bleed-over to the next contact, etc. Also the bearings could be dry, in an open-frame motor like that. Does the armature spin freely when the rubber bands are off? Do the AXLES spin freely when the band is off? Check both those, may be some binding somewhere.
Jerry
Has a few Hi-F RDC's which he hasn't run yet
" When life throws you bananas...it's easy to slip up"
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Posted - March 19 2012 : 10:51:48 PM
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Just clean up and lube the trucks. Be sure to check the wheels are freely spinning and nothing is binding. Also, clean anything electrically and clean the motor brushes and armature.
" Heck with counting 'em rivets, TRAINS ARE FOR FUN! Not called the Mad Scientist for nothing either!"
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Posted - March 19 2012 : 11:13:35 PM
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I did clean and lube just about everything on the unit, but I'll go back and take another look at the wheel journals. I'll also check what Gremlin mentioned about the commutator. I haven't cleaned out the slots between the commutator plates, so perhaps that is the problem. I mean, it's only twice as old as I am. 
I'll keep you all updated. Thanks for the tips.
My Youtube Channel: http://www.youtube.com/user/weekendrailroader?blend=1&ob=video-mustangbase
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Posted - March 19 2012 : 11:15:49 PM
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WR, the original Hi-F motors were weak to begin with, and could only get worse if they lost magnetism due to overheating, disassembly, etc. A motor with a weak magnet will run faster with no load, but once a load is put on it it may not even have enough power to move a loco. That's what this sounds like, assuming there are no binds anywhere, but there's little in a Hi-F to bind. Be sure you have the axles spinning in the same direction.
If this is the early open frame motors and not one of the later motors (which were stronger, btw) you can replace the bad magnet with a stack of rare earth magnets, which will make the motor stronger than it was when new. If Jerry's maintenance tips don't work, then that would be your best option.
http://apexmagnets.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=3
The Tyco Depot
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Posted - March 20 2012 : 12:30:17 AM
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NP to the rescue!!!! 
-Gareth
"A is A"
-Aristotle
Law of Identification
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Posted - March 20 2012 : 1:56:03 PM
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Well, I ended up switching out the RDC's motor for an identical one from an Athearn F7. She runs now, and seems to suck a lot less juice, so I think you guys were spot on about the magnets being shot. Maybe it's time to look into one of those rare earth magnets so I can re-magnetize these older motors. Thanks all.
My Youtube Channel: http://www.youtube.com/user/weekendrailroader?blend=1&ob=video-mustangbase
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