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 Posted - December 29 2011 : 11:12:55 PM
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Hello Fellow Tyconutz.
I have quite a few Tyco,Ahm,etc....cars with squeaky axles.
Which is better? Graphite powder,or,Oil?
I have no experience with graphite powder,but I do have a tube of it in my toolbox.
I've used lightweight Labelle oil previously,and noticed that dust,and other matter collect on the oiled parts.
What do you guys use?
Thanks,
Carl T.
President of the Cape James Terminal RR.
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Jeremy
Little Six
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Posted - December 29 2011 : 11:54:14 PM
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| I use Hilco Lube. Check on Amazon for it. It's in an aerosol can and I think 17oz. Great stuff and no conductive.
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Posted - December 30 2011 : 01:44:34 AM
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| What about to lube the axles in Tyco Power Torqe trucks? I just tried a bit of graphite on the trucks where the axles sit without even thinking about it. The unit seems to run worse now than before. It just dawned on me that maybe graphite isn't conductive? What do you use to clean the bass (?) wheels in Tyco diesels?
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Posted - December 30 2011 : 09:40:12 AM
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quote:What about to lube the axles in Tyco Power Torqe trucks? I just tried a bit of graphite on the trucks ... The unit seems to run worse now than before. It just dawned on me that maybe graphite isn't conductive? What do you use to clean the bass (?) wheels in Tyco diesels?
Originally posted by newhudson - December 30 2011 : 01:44:34 AM
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I use alcohol to clean the axles. Also, the Power Torque housings sometimes have flashing or sharp edges on the axle slots, so if you want it to run smoother, take a drill bit and chamfer the bottom of the slot some to remove the sharp edge, or a rat-tail file. That often contributes to squeal as well. I've noticed that the sharp edge isn't constant all the way around, and the axle will rest on a couple of high points, causing binding. So smoothing the opening edges helps the axle seat flat, and run smoother. Then I just use plain white grease, a tiny bit, on each side, and that usually makes for a very smooth rolling axle after that. I don't think I'd use graphite, I think it's a partial insulator. White grease would be, too, but not as much. I've had no problems using just a tiny bit.
Jerry
" When life throws you bananas...it's easy to slip up"
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Posted - December 30 2011 : 09:46:33 AM
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Oh, and as far as greasing rolling stock axles? No. The points are supposed to reduce the rolling resistance, adding any lube will just attract dust, dirt, etc. Sometimes the points of the axle get rusty, you might want to check them if they're metal, and clean them up some. Also, the cheap plastic housings can have flashing or mold lines inside, there's a tool to clean up the cone-shaped surface inside , which helps alot. Sometimes, though, it's just the cheap plastic axles, the points are mis-shapened or dull. I've replaced some with metal axles and wheels, and it's amazing how nicely they'll spin in a cheap truck, compared to the original cheap plastic axles. Basically, I'd find one GOOD axle, and then use it to test each truck axle position, to see if it spins nicely. If it does it's the axles, if it binds up, it's the truck housing itself. Need to do a process of elimination.
But I would not use lube on the axle points themselves, it's just asking for trouble. They should spin freely if everything is correct , I'd check for bad axles first, then bad housings.
Jerry
" When life throws you bananas...it's easy to slip up"
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Posted - December 30 2011 : 10:34:06 AM
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STP! hehe It what my friend used to lube up my locos 
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Posted - December 30 2011 : 11:51:46 AM
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I had rarely used STP in car engines years ago. I don't know what STP is like today but if it is as thick and heavy as it used to be, I would not use it on Tyco engines.
Walt
Luck, usually comes dressed in work clothes...
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Posted - December 30 2011 : 12:23:59 PM
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All the above are great tips! I personally have been using just a dab of synthetic motor oil on the gears and axles and the difference is night and day, especially when it comes to oiling the armature bushings on the motors. My Mantua enignes don't even have that growl to them anymore, just smooth as silk and tons of power over a power torque. Avoid white lithium grease with a vegetable oil base, it dries up and turns to sticky goop in just a few days. And anything with real petroleum products in them are not so good over time as they can soften the plastics, making them crumble eventually. If anyone knows this to be true of synthetics also, please chime in....
Edited by - ChrisWA on December 30 2011 12:26:01 PM
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Posted - December 30 2011 : 11:05:22 PM
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Jerry/AMC Gremlin brings up yet another question. What kind of metal wheel/axle sets can I use to replace in Tyco freight car trucks? I'm guessing the car would ride better? What about couplers? I'd rather not body mount Kadee couplers. Two weeks or so ago I bought the first new or used Tyco in decades. One flat car came with these metal wheel sets in the Tyco truck, and there was what I'd only guess to be a Kadee coupler also in the Tyco truck. It almost looks like it was made to replace the horn hook coupler. I've asked about this sort of thing at my LHS, but lets just say they try to stear me away from the Tyco altogether.
Damion
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Posted - December 30 2011 : 11:51:23 PM
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quote:Jerry/AMC Gremlin brings up yet another question. What kind of metal wheel/axle sets can I use to replace in Tyco freight car trucks? I'm guessing the car would ride better? What about couplers?
Damion
Originally posted by newhudson - December 30 2011 : 11:05:22 PM
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Damion, what I used for my Tyco/Bachmann/Life-like upgrades were 33" wheels by Intermountain, P/N is IRC 40055 (blackened), or 40050 ( slightly silver look).. There's 12 sets, enough to do 3 cars with 4 axles. These worked very well, and roll nicely. $10 when I bought them. But they do the job. My Tyco and Bachmann cars really roll well with the new steel axles, none of the binding and wobbling like with the plastic wheels and axles.
Jerry
" When life throws you bananas...it's easy to slip up"
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Posted - January 01 2012 : 9:45:44 PM
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Dry lubricant... Kadee sells graphite powder for dry-lubrication applications.
Wanna save some more money and hassle?
Use your pencil.
They are not making LEAD for pencils. It is graphite. And it's very controllable. It's got it's own manageable applicator and can be shaven to a powder or concentrated to a sharp point or tiny crevice. Matter of fact, there is even a device in which you can hone it to a precise point with great ease. ...also known as a pencil sharpener.
This concludes my input from the Cheepo Depot Department, Inc, Co. Ltd... co-op... etc.
John
I don't have a one track mind. It depends on the turn-out.
"I love your catenary!"
Is that a power-trip or just another pick-up line?
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