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Posted - December 19 2011 : 2:04:53 PM
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I have an HO Kato RS3 that I want to open up to check a few things out. How do I get the shell off? I have tried HOSeeker but can't find the RS3. There are 2 very short screws bang in the middle of the underneath. When I undid them, nothing moved. Any pointing to instructions or diagrams appreciated.
TE
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Posted - December 19 2011 : 5:08:12 PM
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See if this helps :
http://members.shaw.ca/sask.rail/dcc/rs3/rs3.html
Jerry
" When life throws you bananas...it's easy to slip up"
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Posted - December 20 2011 : 1:53:32 PM
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[quote]See if this helps :
http://members.shaw.ca/sask.rail/dcc/rs3/rs3.html
Jerry
Originally posted by AMC_Gremlin_GTÂ -Â December 19 2011Â :Â 5:08:12 PM [/quote
Thanks Jerry I dug around after I realized that Kato could be Atlas , & found this: http://www.soundtraxx.com/documents/appnotes/Atlas%20RS3.pdf
Has a good explanation & when I squeezed the corners as described, the shell shot off. Surprised at the amount of weight in the ceiling of the shell. The quasi fiber optic light system doesn't work very well. Not sure if its my RS3 or a general design fault. The central bulb glows bright, but the light doesn't seem to get down to the front & back ends, yet the plastic light 'tubes' are still clear, not milky.
TE
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Posted - December 20 2011 : 3:48:30 PM
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Thanks Jerry I dug around after I realized that Kato could be Atlas ...Has a good explanation & when I squeezed the corners as described, the shell shot off.
>>> Well, at least you got it apart. 
The quasi fiber optic light system doesn't work very well. The central bulb glows bright, but the light doesn't seem to get down to the front & back ends, yet the plastic light 'tubes' are still clear, not milky. TE
>>> Could be the ends are not molded well, they can diffuse the light. If they're super-polished, it might work better to cut them flat with a "brushed" finish, that seems to pick up the light better. If they are rounded and smooth, that is probably the problem. - jerry -
" When life throws you bananas...it's easy to slip up"
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Posted - December 20 2011 : 6:37:02 PM
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quote: Thanks Jerry I dug around after I realized that Kato could be Atlas ...Has a good explanation & when I squeezed the corners as described, the shell shot off.
>>> Well, at least you got it apart. 
The quasi fiber optic light system doesn't work very well. The central bulb glows bright, but the light doesn't seem to get down to the front & back ends, yet the plastic light 'tubes' are still clear, not milky. TE
>>> Could be the ends are not molded well, they can diffuse the light. If they're super-polished, it might work better to cut them flat with a "brushed" finish, that seems to pick up the light better. If they are rounded and smooth, that is probably the problem. - jerry -
Originally posted by AMC_Gremlin_GTÂ -Â December 20 2011Â :Â 3:48:30 PM
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Which ends are we talking - the 2 pr of rounded ones that are the headlights at each end of the shell, or the ends next to the central bulb? Thanks TE
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Posted - December 20 2011 : 11:25:44 PM
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quote: [ >>> Which ends are we talking - the 2 pr of rounded ones that are the headlights at each end of the shell, or the ends next to the central bulb? Thanks TE
Originally posted by TankedEngine - December 20 2011 : 6:37:02 PM
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the ends that pick up the light from the bulb inside, not the outer visible ends. What I've noticed with our light pipes is that if the pick-up ends are too polished, they'll reflect more light than pick up. So they need to be rougher, so more "lines" of the plastic will pick up the light and channel it down the pipe. Too smooth and glossy, and it just reflects it back not pick it up to carry it along. You'd think rougher would be worse, not bettter, for pickup, but it's the opposite - you want frosty, not shiny, to pick up the light and diffuse it down the piece
Jerry
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Posted - December 21 2011 : 10:08:13 AM
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quote: quote: [ >>> Which ends are we talking - the 2 pr of rounded ones that are the headlights at each end of the shell, or the ends next to the central bulb? Thanks TE
Originally posted by TankedEngine - December 20 2011 : 6:37:02 PM
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the ends that pick up the light from the bulb inside, not the outer visible ends. What I've noticed with our light pipes is that if the pick-up ends are too polished, they'll reflect more light than pick up. So they need to be rougher, so more "lines" of the plastic will pick up the light and channel it down the pipe. Too smooth and glossy, and it just reflects it back not pick it up to carry it along. You'd think rougher would be worse, not bettter, for pickup, but it's the opposite - you want frosty, not shiny, to pick up the light and diffuse it down the piece
Jerry
Originally posted by AMC_Gremlin_GTÂ -Â December 20 2011Â :Â 11:25:44 PM
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Ok Jerry Rough ends are counter intuitive on initial reflection, but will give it a go. Thanks TE
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Posted - December 21 2011 : 10:44:01 AM
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quote:
Ok Jerry Rough ends are counter intuitive on initial reflection, but will give it a go. Thanks TE
Originally posted by TankedEngine - December 21 2011 : 10:08:13 AM
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Yes, what is ideal is a light haze or fog. Too heavy or rough, light doesn't get through. it's a balancing act. But the effect of a polished end vs frosty is very noticeable on our light pipes we use to transfer LED light, the more polished, the dimmer the light. TOO rough, same thing, so it's got to be almost a whitish haze, which allows maximum light pick-up and pass-through, but not rough enough to keep light from being picked up, or too polished to reflect it back. Some experimentation will be required. Probably some 800- 1,000 grit sandpaper would work nicely. Also the end should be FLAT, not rounded. You want a nice 90 degree cut, so the light will travel down the pipe straighter. That's another killer I noticed, if our ends were too rounded, they didn't pick up as much light, either. So sawing the end off flat, then burnish it with 800 grit sandpaper should maximize the light pickup. Some of our other light pipes for different products have a concave indentation in the pick-up end, I presume to focus more of the light, or pick more up. That will be hard to duplicate without direct molding, though.
Jerry
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