|
|
 Posted - December 02 2011 : 12:07:22 PM
|
Hello train experts,
Does anyone have any tricks to make a good 20" diameter circle track?
I am working on my Christmas layout, and am putting an elevated 20" circle on it with a gandy dancer. I have already made it using two pieces of Flextrack, but the joints are not very good and the gandy dancer gets stuck sometimes.
I cannot figure out how to do it without putting so much stress on the joints (or on me!!! ). I soldered the rail joiners and rail to keep it from separating, but there are still issues with them.
The track is elevated on plastic trestles, so there is no base to attach it to. I wish they made tighter radius track!
Thanks for any suggestions!
Mark
|
Country:  USA ~
Posts: 293 ~
Member Since: January 17 2010 ~
Last Visit: September 29 2023
|
Alert Moderator
|
|
|
|
Posted - December 02 2011 : 2:58:44 PM
|
The trick I use is to solder the flex track when it's straight, then I start the curve from the solder joint outward. I make sure the solder has flowed completely around the rail on both sides of the joiners.
20" inch radius is pretty tight though, so understand how frustrating it can be. You might need to try it a couple times before you get it right.
-Thomas
|
|
Country: USA ~
Posts: 1087 ~
Member Since: July 07 2011 ~
Last Visit: March 02 2026
|
Alert Moderator
|
|
|
|
Posted - December 02 2011 : 5:34:56 PM
|
That's what I did, but I was wondering if there was a better way.
Thanks!
|
|
Country: USA ~
Posts: 293 ~
Member Since: January 17 2010 ~
Last Visit: September 29 2023
|
Alert Moderator
|
|
|
|
Posted - December 02 2011 : 6:55:27 PM
|
If you are referring to designing the 20" radius, a simple trammel, made from a nail and a yardstick will do.
Drive a panel nail thru one end of the yardstick, say at the 1" mark. Drill a small hole large enough to allow a pencil to tightly fit thru at the 21" mark.
Determine the center point of the arc ( be sure to allow for clearance where the curve will approach the edge of the table or surface ) and place the nail at that point , using one hand on the nail end and the other hand on the pencil, move the pencil thru an arc or a half circle as per your track plan. The pencil line drawn will represent the track center line. I strongly suggest using flex track for an arc. If more than one piece is required, as is usually the case, join the two pieces along the arc you drew, temporarily tack them down and solder them together, then relocate them along the penciled arc line as per their required position on your plan.
Of course, if using cork or other roadbed, lay that down first then use the centerline created by the roadbed as your guide.
Hope this helps.
Siouxlake/Ron
|
|
Country: USA ~
Posts: 510 ~
Member Since: September 21 2011 ~
Last Visit: December 21 2014
|
Alert Moderator
|
|
|
|
Posted - December 02 2011 : 7:53:49 PM
|
Thanks Ron, but I don't have a problem creating the circle, my problem is how to join the two pieces of Flextrack together without the rails springing (for lack of a better word) out. The radius is so tight that the rails pop out of the ties. The rail joiners don't give it enough support to hold it in the curve and it creates a "pinch."
The track is not tacked down to anything. It is all up on trestles. I suppose I could try to make the whole thing and solder the rail joiners while tacked on a piece of plywood, then remove it after it is all soldered and attach the trestles; but I think I would still have the same problem.
Thomas, I do solder the one Flextrack conection when it is straight, but it has to be in a circle to solder the last connection! That's where my problem happens!
I may tackle it after Christmas. So far, the one I made is working OK, but I'd like to make it better.
|
|
Country: USA ~
Posts: 293 ~
Member Since: January 17 2010 ~
Last Visit: September 29 2023
|
Alert Moderator
|
|
|
|
Posted - December 03 2011 : 07:38:14 AM
|
quote:
The track is not tacked down to anything. It is all up on trestles.
Jerry Sez - "Is this by any chance the "tree train" rack that Toys R Us is selling, to mount on a Christmas tree?"
Thomas, I do solder the one Flextrack conection when it is straight, but it has to be in a circle to solder the last connection! That's where my problem happens!
Jerry sez - " You might need to get two small pair of vicegrips to hold each pair of rail ends for the last connection, although that will provide a heat soak, so you'll need a good hot iron to overcome that. That last rail joining of the circle will be a major pain, as you've found out. The OTHER way I"m thinking is to put the circle of track on a piece of plywood, and then starting 180 degrees out, put finishing nails to hold the track down as you complete the circle, so that the last half-circle of track is held in place horizontally by the nails into the tight radius you want. Once you've soldered the last two joints, you can then pull the circle straight up off the finishing nailbed board, and hopefully it will be in a consistent circle. Just do the radius drawing trick with the yardstick, then lay the track following that circle, and maybe it will work. "
Jerry
Originally posted by 59Chevy - December 02 2011 : 7:53:49 PM
|
" When life throws you bananas...it's easy to slip up"
|
|
Country: USA ~
Posts: 3974 ~
Member Since: January 04 2009 ~
Last Visit: January 11 2019
|
Alert Moderator
|
|
|
|
Posted - December 03 2011 : 08:00:38 AM
|
If it is a stability issue, as you seem to describe, then perhaps using a 1/4 inch hardboard or masonite "ring" or arc as a track substrate might help, where the arc of track is tacked and soldered to the hardboard to reinforce the ties base of the flex track, to deflect the resistant force into the hardboard to lessen the "spring" effect and stabilize the track as it sits in the tie slots.
The hardboard could provide a firmer support for the entire assembly.
Again, another thought.....
Siouxlake/Ron
|
|
Country: USA ~
Posts: 510 ~
Member Since: September 21 2011 ~
Last Visit: December 21 2014
|
Alert Moderator
|
|
|
|
Posted - December 03 2011 : 08:03:02 AM
|
I meant to say: soldered together, then tacked or fastened onto the hardboard. I would use shallow wire nails and, if necessary, clip their points if they protrude below the bottom of the hardboard.
Ron
|
|
Country: USA ~
Posts: 510 ~
Member Since: September 21 2011 ~
Last Visit: December 21 2014
|
Alert Moderator
|
|
|
|
Posted - December 03 2011 : 09:38:00 AM
|
Thanks, Ron,
That would probably be the best option, but I would prefer just having the track elevated with no base underneath, so you can see through it.
Thanks for the suggestions so far!
Mark
|
|
Country: USA ~
Posts: 293 ~
Member Since: January 17 2010 ~
Last Visit: September 29 2023
|
Alert Moderator
|
|
|
|
Posted - December 04 2011 : 10:28:39 PM
|
How about making your circle with 4 - 6 inches of overlap; bend it so that it is stable without being joined, then cut through both sections where you want to make the join.
Happy trails!
|
|
Country: USA ~
Posts: 169 ~
Member Since: November 26 2009 ~
Last Visit: February 25 2026
|
Alert Moderator
|
|
|
|
Posted - December 04 2011 : 10:41:38 PM
|
That is kind of what I did. I bent it around and clamped it together, marked it and then unclamped it and cut it.
I think you are right, if I leave it clamped together, then cut the two rails together with a Dremmel, then I would have a better fit. And, if I make a plywood circle to bend it around, it would even be better!
Next weekend!
Thanks,
Mark
|
|
Country: USA ~
Posts: 293 ~
Member Since: January 17 2010 ~
Last Visit: September 29 2023
|
Alert Moderator
|
|
Home
Forums
Events Calendar
Forum Admins & Mods
Register
