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 Posted - December 01 2011 : 12:14:35 PM
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Hey guys;
this pic was in an email from Sean where we were discussing how I might impprove the deal on a Central Valley Lil Joe he currently has on evilbay.
Anyway, he had found this (Mantua 0-4-0 chassis) and suggested it as an alternative to the Varney running gear. I like the Mantua valve gear pictured so I was wondering if anyone could conclusively ID it? Btw, Sean thought Booster, me I haven't a clue.... 
Thanks,
Gareth
"A is A"
-Aristotle
Law of Identification
Edited by - romcat on December 01 2011 12:21:33 PM
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Posted - December 01 2011 : 12:22:20 PM
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* Sean would agree, the fact is that wether it was a booster or switcher by Tyco-Mantua that provided power for this old varney body is not inportant. It shows it can be done. I would say easily.
frank
toptrain
" It's a Heck of a Day " !!!
Edited by - toptrain on December 01 2011 12:23:34 PM
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Posted - December 01 2011 : 12:22:58 PM
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my guess kit 754 which seem to fit all the 0-4-0s ken
http://www.hoseeker.net/assemblyexplosionMantua/mantua040shifterpg1.jpg
Edited by - catfordken on December 01 2011 12:26:43 PM
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Posted - December 01 2011 : 12:27:58 PM
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Frank:
It matters in that I was interested in the form of the valve gear as it appears in the picture I provided. If there is no difference great, if their is I'm still looking for an answer.
Ken:
I saw that to earlier and I'm leaning that way towards the Shifter myself.
-Gareth
"A is A"
-Aristotle
Law of Identification
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Posted - December 01 2011 : 12:47:38 PM
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Gareth,
There is no difference between the Shifter & the Booster parts. As the proud owner of some ~30 Shifters and ~25 Boosters, I can assure you of this...all the external parts other than the frame and boiler/tender shells are interchangeable. This includes, drivers, bearings, rods, gears, etc.
The frame altering is the the difficult task. The Switcher had a large bulk of material toward the rear that would need to be widdled down to somewhat match the shape of the shape of the original Joe chassis. The Booster already has a shape close to this which would require only the removal of the rear deck & steps. Quite an easy cut with a dremel cutting wheel.
This is the booster frame:
It would be much easier and require less time to cut this frame down that that of the Switcher... This is what I tried to explain earlier (in fewer words and graphics of course).
Sean
"If everything seems under control, you're not going fast enough!" - Mario Andretti!
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Posted - December 01 2011 : 1:31:39 PM
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saddle tank loco?? oooo I want one! To do up in a GW Sugar loco
the loco in M_n_T has resembles my Marx locos
Should I get a pic of both & the undersides?
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Posted - December 06 2011 : 11:41:15 AM
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| Hey, Sean, Take a look at my recent postings under Mantua. As the owner of so many of these 4-wheelers, I'd like your take on the models. Basically, my Boosters run fantastic in original condition, while I can't seem to get a shifter to run well, even with a re-motor! I think it has a lot to do with the tender pickup, but that's just a theory. Chris (I was thinking about taking the wheel wipers off an old booster and trying to fit them on a Shifter's drivers)
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Posted - December 06 2011 : 12:14:55 PM
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quote:Hey, Sean, Take a look at my recent postings under Mantua. As the owner of so many of these 4-wheelers, I'd like your take on the models. Basically, my Boosters run fantastic in original condition, while I can't seem to get a shifter to run well, even with a re-motor! I think it has a lot to do with the tender pickup, but that's just a theory. Chris (I was thinking about taking the wheel wipers off an old booster and trying to fit them on a Shifter's drivers)
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Chris, Take a look at this photo set I have. I have a video at the end of the set dedicated to exactly what you are referring to about pushing on the tender for improved pick-ip of power:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/9977705@N05/sets/72157624388589128/
The tender, frame, wheel sets need to be cleaned at all contact points (ie inside sideframse where axle makes contact, both sides of truck bolster where it makes contact with frame and screw. the screw itself, and the contact wire at the contact location and this screw as well.)
I improve contact, there is an aftermarket brush you can apply to the bottom of the shifter and it will ride against the rail, or you can have it ride against one of the insulated tires. You can either glue it on with a piece of plastic as a insulation from the frame or drill a hole and use a plastic screw to mount it, still using something as insulation between the brush and the frame. I prefer the plastic screw over glue. Glue it and it can not be un-done without doing harm to something.
I have several of these brushes tucked away, sorry as I can not remember the name right now. I'll try to remember when I get home from work and post a pic. They are quit common to be listed on eBay. They function sort of like a pantograph in reverse. They ride against the rail.
See this guys page on putting sound on locomotives:
http://www.55n3.org/locomotives/roundhouse/sound/
He has a pretty good method to make tender truck contact brushes.
Don't bother with the Booster. I think that will be too hard to get right.
Sean
"If everything seems under control, you're not going fast enough!" - Mario Andretti!
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Posted - December 06 2011 : 1:18:15 PM
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Sean, Thanks for all the great info. Of course, I clean everything--all contact areas--spik and span, but those tenders just don't seem to carry the current well (the six axle tenders are somewhat better, but benefit from a little weight added). The wipers are a good idea--I may just take a look and see if the booster pickups will fit onto a Shifter frame. If not, I'll explore putting on a wiper. Thanks, Chris
The site you sent showed a great way to make wheel wipers from Kadee Coupler centering springs. That might be a thought--not to mention I was thinking of maybe using the axle pickups that are used on the later versions of the Tyco floodlight car.
Edited by - Adams on December 06 2011 1:41:04 PM
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