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Author Previous Topic: got my Tyco set back. thought was lost Topic Next Topic: removing model paint  

walt
Big Boy



Tyco Yum

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 Posted - October 20 2011 :  9:59:14 PM Link directly to this topic  Show Profile  Add walt to Buddylist
I have not taken a Tyco train apart in over 30 years. When I received my Red roofed Purina box car today, the weight is loose inside it. I wanted to ask rather than break something on the box car.

I notice that the box is attached to the chassis sitting on 4 pins located on the bottom corners. Are these pins glued, or are they just made to hold snuggly. The question is how to remove the box body from the chassis without damage...

Walt

Luck, usually comes dressed in work clothes...
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microbusss
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tiger

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 Posted - October 20 2011 :  10:12:21 PM Link directly to this reply  Show Profile  Add microbusss to Buddylist
just made to hold snuggly or some idiot glued it
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AMC_Gremlin_GT
Big Boy



GremlinBL2

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 Posted - October 20 2011 :  10:23:21 PM Link directly to this reply  Show Profile  Send AMC_Gremlin_GT an AOL message  Send AMC_Gremlin_GT a Yahoo! Message  Add AMC_Gremlin_GT to Buddylist
If it has metal pins in the corners, those are those twisty pins, which are rather difficult to remove once in. They're sunk in a hole, right? VERY hard to get out. Someone said on this forum once they found a way to remove them, but it's still not easy, from what I remember (vaguely).

Jerry

" When life throws you bananas...it's easy to slip up"
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walt
Big Boy



Tyco Yum

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 Posted - October 20 2011 :  10:56:30 PM Link directly to this reply  Show Profile  Add walt to Buddylist
Thanks guys! Mine has what looks to be plastic what I'm calling 'pins" for lack of the correct term, that the chassis presses onto to hold the unit together.

Ben, they don't look to be glued but I thought it would be worth asking before I attempted removal. My guess would be that the box car will separate by careful prying a little on each end... This car is very nice so I don't want to damage it in any way...

Walt

Luck, usually comes dressed in work clothes...
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eaglerock109
Mikado


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 Posted - October 20 2011 :  11:16:34 PM Link directly to this reply  Show Profile  Add eaglerock109 to Buddylist
Hi Walt,
I've taken a few of those a part. I used a small jewlers screw driver and gently pried up from the shor end of the box car. Taking your time will help prevent breaking anything.
Hope this helps...................Tom
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microbusss
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tiger

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 Posted - October 20 2011 :  11:19:39 PM Link directly to this reply  Show Profile  Add microbusss to Buddylist
true, Walt I don't want to damage mine either

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walt
Big Boy



Tyco Yum

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 Posted - October 20 2011 :  11:32:16 PM Link directly to this reply  Show Profile  Add walt to Buddylist
TOM Thank You! That is exactly what I had in mind but wanted to ask someone who knew more than I do about it...

MicroBen, I bought this Red roof on Ebay days ago. It was relisted for months for $19.99 which was too much. Seller finally listed it for $9.95 which was still too much, , but I bought it anyway!


Walt

Luck, usually comes dressed in work clothes...
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microbusss
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tiger

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 Posted - October 21 2011 :  08:32:14 AM Link directly to this reply  Show Profile  Add microbusss to Buddylist
I needs a red roof one I thought I had one But I do have the coal hopper with Purina on it Now I just need the loader that Tyco made with Purina on it
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spiderj76
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 Posted - October 21 2011 :  10:40:40 AM Link directly to this reply  Show Profile  Add spiderj76 to Buddylist
There are 3 versions of the reefer / floor mounting:

1) Kit version with metal floor. The floor/chassis is the same part used on the 40' flat, gondola and boxcar. Kits used 4 small screws to secure the floor to the posts in the corners of the shells (some cars used holes in the center sill but the floors still interchange). Easy to take apart.

2) RTR version of the above. Same deal, but uses the pins AMC referred to above. I have removed the floors using Tom's method as well, but will caution that you should insert the screwdriver at the corners and do one at a time - not from the center of the end. You may still inevitably leave impressions on the plastic if the fit is tight, but with care and a wide blade they will be inconspicuous.

3) Plastic version, appearing 1971/72. The cars extended corner posts that press-fit into the new plastic chassis. Troublesome to remove, but the method above still works. If you break a pin (some are amazingly stubborn) you can usually just cement it back in place.


When I get common / junk cars with busted stirrups or lousy paint that feature the metal frames, I harvest the metal chassis and discard (recycle) the plastic shells. The metal frames are rather handy at times, even for weighing other kits.

You can also convert the all-plastic cars to the metal frames. Simply slice off the narrow post extensions, then insert a metal chassis and use its mounting holes as a jig to drill holes in the posts. Then use the original screws or pins to secure them. I've converted a handful of cars this way. Makes a big improvement in appearance too, since the plastic floors hang too low below the sills on the boxcars.

Edited by - spiderj76 on October 21 2011 10:45:47 AM
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