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Srenchin
Big Boy


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 Posted - September 07 2011 :  10:54:35 PM Link directly to this topic  Show Profile  Add Srenchin to Buddylist
Hi everyone!

I just finished assembling a Tyco Mikado kit only to find that the driving wheel-set with the spur gear is defective. Besides replacing the defective driver with another Mantua/Tyco wheel-set, are there any other manufactures that make drivers for these locomotives? I just checked Precision Scale Company but they don't have any wheels that would be viable. Has anyone had any luck adapting driving wheels from other manufactures to Tyco/Mantua steam locomotives? Any info would be greatly appreciated!!!

Scott


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romcat
Big Boy



LondonPortStanley

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 Posted - September 07 2011 :  11:02:41 PM Link directly to this reply  Show Profile  Add romcat to Buddylist
Hey:

http://yardbirdtrains.com/

The guy who owns this company, Dan is the best....

-Gareth


"A is A"
-Aristotle
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Srenchin
Big Boy


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 Posted - September 07 2011 :  11:17:07 PM Link directly to this reply  Show Profile  Add Srenchin to Buddylist
Here is a picture of my Mike:




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romcat
Big Boy



LondonPortStanley

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 Posted - September 07 2011 :  11:24:44 PM Link directly to this reply  Show Profile  Add romcat to Buddylist
Ya need to change that cab, it's from one of their switchers and it's too small!

-Gareth

"A is A"
-Aristotle
Law of Identification
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toptrain
Moderator




On Pingynp

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 Posted - September 08 2011 :  08:51:22 AM Link directly to this reply  Show Profile  Add toptrain to Buddylist
All tyco cabs are the same size. The only difference is the wall against the boiler. The size of the opening for the boiler is different. The 2-8-2, 4-6-2, 0-4-0 and 0-6-0 shifters, and 2-6-2 share the same size boiler. Old timers are different.
frank

toptrain

" It's a Heck of a Day " !!!

Edited by - toptrain on September 08 2011 08:57:25 AM
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romcat
Big Boy



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 Posted - September 08 2011 :  09:08:57 AM Link directly to this reply  Show Profile  Add romcat to Buddylist
Hey Frank:

You kindaa qualified what I was saying. The thing is they should NOT be the same size. On the real thing, cabs on road going engies tended to be larger. Tyco/Mantua used their 1920's style switcher cab across the product line for reasons of economics, not fidelity with prototypical practice.

Now having said that. If you want to stay true to the Loco as a TYCO, leave it. If OTOH you want it conform more to proto practice then think about a cab switch, after all thats what modelling is. Modelling is supposed to be a verb, an activity.

-Gareth

"A is A"
-Aristotle
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Redneck Justin
Big Boy



The Young Dr.Frankenstein!

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 Posted - September 08 2011 :  09:33:59 AM Link directly to this reply  Show Profile  Add Redneck Justin to Buddylist
Nope, cab and all is correct to the kit.
" Heck with counting 'em rivets, TRAINS ARE FOR FUN! Not called the Mad Scientist for nothing either!"
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romcat
Big Boy



LondonPortStanley

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 Posted - September 08 2011 :  1:32:02 PM Link directly to this reply  Show Profile  Add romcat to Buddylist
Justin;

Perhaps you misunderstand me, per the prototype, the cab that Tyco/Mantua put on that SCALE model is inappropriately small.

-Gareth

"A is A"
-Aristotle
Law of Identification
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Srenchin
Big Boy


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 Posted - September 08 2011 :  1:45:24 PM Link directly to this reply  Show Profile  Add Srenchin to Buddylist
I agree, the cab is too small. Actually my plan is to turn this generic locomotive into a model of a 4000 series Santa Fe Mikado. I already have a Santa Fe style MDC cab that I am going to try to fit to this model. However, before I do anything cosmetic to this engine I first need to get this thing to operate properly which brings me back to the original topic of this post. Currently the engine lurches around my test track due to a defective driving axle spur gear. I need a new wheel set for this engine but I would like to replace the drivers with something other than a Mantua replacement parts. Does anyone have any suggestions?
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Edited by - Srenchin on September 08 2011 2:26:20 PM
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romcat
Big Boy



LondonPortStanley

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 Posted - September 08 2011 :  2:51:01 PM Link directly to this reply  Show Profile  Add romcat to Buddylist
scott:

You said the spur gear was defective, in what way?

-Gareth

"A is A"
-Aristotle
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Srenchin
Big Boy


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 Posted - September 08 2011 :  7:07:31 PM Link directly to this reply  Show Profile  Add Srenchin to Buddylist
I think the gear "tread" may have a slight taper to it, just like how railroad wheels have a slight taper. Since my last post I have spoken to Dan at Yardbird Classic Trains about this locomotive and he had some great advice. First he recommended that I put a piece of card stock between the motor and the frame to remove any binding between the worm gear and axle spur gear. This I did with positive results, the locomotive is now able to run smoothly, even at low speeds! Unfortunately the engine suffers from excessive gear noise (which I failed to mention in my earlier posts) that is really annoying. Listening over the telephone Dan said that the engine was way noisier than it should be, which still suggests to me that the axle spur gear is defective. Incidentally the spur gear is made out of white nylon rather than the more modern black plastic material used for gears today. Dan's second suggestion was to try to break-in the locomotive by letting it run for a couple hours, but after running this engine for the better part of the day it is still very loud. I think the next step is to replace the wheel set. Oh, I decided to substitute a larger cab for the stock Mantua cab supplied with the kit. Let me know what you think!

Scott


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Edited by - Srenchin on September 08 2011 7:28:43 PM
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romcat
Big Boy



LondonPortStanley

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 Posted - September 08 2011 :  7:29:39 PM Link directly to this reply  Show Profile  Add romcat to Buddylist
Looks like theirs room in the cab now for operation.

The cab needs to be levelled though.

Dan's great isn't he.

-Gareth

"A is A"
-Aristotle
Law of Identification

Edited by - romcat on September 08 2011 7:30:12 PM
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tkruger
Big Six

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 Posted - September 08 2011 :  8:02:54 PM Link directly to this reply  Show Profile  Add tkruger to Buddylist
Since Mantua used the same gears for all of their series of steamers you may want to look for a junker on EBay. I needed a part and picked up an 0-4-0 for less than $10 with the part I needed for an larger model.
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Srenchin
Big Boy


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 Posted - September 08 2011 :  9:32:54 PM Link directly to this reply  Show Profile  Add Srenchin to Buddylist
If I decided to replace the gear on my own, how would I remove the wheels and then replace them properly quartered? Is this something that can be done by hand or would I have to invest in some kind of wheel puller device? Incidentally, Dan at Yardbird offered a trade where I would send him my defective wheel-set for a new one. Presumably Dan would then replace the bad gear and then sell my old wheel-set to a new customer.

As for the cab, I loosely attached it to the boiler shell to see how it would look. I can't get it level without gluing it in place which I am not ready to do yet. Incidentally I had to make a longer drawbar to provide clearance between the cab's roof and the tender. My next question is how to fill the noticeable gap between the locomotive's frame and the tender, right now the cab looks like it is suspended in mid air without any means of support. Has anyone dealt with this problem, I know that a company called Mellor offered a "back detailer kit" for the Mantua Mike. Does anyone know where I can find Mellor products?

Scott

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romcat
Big Boy



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 Posted - September 08 2011 :  11:51:29 PM Link directly to this reply  Show Profile  Add romcat to Buddylist
Love Dan's trade in service!

I have to contact him and trade some boilers for a 2-6-6-2 Mallet chassis. Weeeeeee!

One of the really nice things about the Mantua mike/Pacific is their genericness. It allows so many options..... great for modellers!

-Gareth

"A is A"
-Aristotle
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tkruger
Big Six

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 Posted - September 09 2011 :  7:54:06 PM Link directly to this reply  Show Profile  Add tkruger to Buddylist
quote:
If I decided to replace the gear on my own, how would I remove the wheels and then replace them properly quartered? Is this something that can be done by hand or would I have to invest in some kind of wheel puller device? Incidentally, Dan at Yardbird offered a trade where I would send him my defective wheel-set for a new one. Presumably Dan would then replace the bad gear and then sell my old wheel-set to a new customer.


Are your current drivers brass? If so do the trade in and see if you can upgrade to NS. The brass ones corroded more. The NS stay cleaner and look better.
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