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 Posted - September 25 2006 : 11:37:29 PM
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Refreshed 12-4-07. Here you Go Nelson and all other newcomers to the forum. Attached photos below. click on each to open.
REFRESHED AGAIN FOR KEN AND OTHERS -- SEE MY VIDEO ALSO UNDER TYCO MAINTENANCE WHICH IS CURRENTLY REFRESHED TOO.
Keeping your original tyco motor maintenanced is important. While i suspect many motor failures is due to improper oil and lube. As a kid when you bought a loco new- all we knew how to do was set it on the track and let r rip. With tyco that is ok but once factory oil and grease begins to dry out you are putting more friction on the motor that can not really handle it which leads to melt down. FIRST-USE ONLY APPROVED OIL AND GREASE FOR MODEL TRAINS. On all tyco diesels is a small metal gear which comes off the motor winding. It is in the 2 o'clock position to the upper right of the large plastic gear. Locate and place 1-2 drops of oil UNDER GEAR ONLY. Locate motor bearing above the metal wheels side- there is a small hole between the wires for motor bearing-place one drop here also. This is per tyco instructions. popping motor out of engine shell makes this easier and removing motor is easy.On all the gears-apply grease. a small amount will go a long way so do not over do it. if you remove gears-place grease behind them also. just remember to place back in right position! To do this- Remove screws carefully from truck using a precision phillps screw driver or craftsman#41542 or alt# 41293 which is a long handle craftsman phillips. Remove wheels and place grease in each wheel cradle also. replace wheels and then apply grease to visible gears. You should notice improved engine performance. I did this to several just purchased as well as my other tycos and they literally took off faster than when i sat them on the track and ran before this. a few of them flew off the track at full throttle in the curves--Ahhh- the memories flooding back as i remember getting a shark nose rock island set in 1979 that did the same at full throttle. Hail tyco. You can do the same for tyco steam locos as well. Remember when you purchase that new in box off ebay that it has been sitting a minimum 20 years average and will probably need lubing before running as well as those other tyco gems you bought. Will post some attachments shortly of lubing. Hope this has been of some help to those who are not familiar with what to oil. Brian BREAK IN PROCEDURE FOR NEW ONLY TYCO-- PER MANUFACTURES INSTRUCTIONS-RUN LOCO AT MODERATE SPEED IN FORWARD POSITION FOR 20 MINUTES. STEP # 2= RUN IN REVERSE FOR 10 MINUTES.
LUBRICATION-PER TYCO INSTRUCTION SHOULD BE DONE EVERY 12 HRS OF OPERATION AS DESCRIBED ABOVE. (OIL IS MAIN THING ESPECIALLY ON MOTOR BEARING.) YOU MAY NOT NEED TO GREASE EVERY 12 HRS BUT DEFINITLY OIL.
FOOTNOTE: IF YOU ARE SERVICING A SILVER STREAK OR GOLDEN EAGLE- BE CAREFUL NOT TO GET OIL OR GREASE FROM YOUR FINGERS OR HAND ON FINISH. IT WILL DESTROY LUSTER OF CHROME OR GOLD FINISH.>>>FINALLY AND MOST IMPORTANT= KEEP YOUR ENGINES OFF THE CARPET AS FIBERS GET SUCKED UP INTO MOTOR WINDING RESULTING IN BURN OUT!!!!!
Squealing Power Torque or Jerky movement -- Place oil drop on the bearing and it should quit and run smooth.
Edited by - Brianstyco on September 22 2010 07:27:47 AM
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 Posted - September 27 2006 : 10:27:59 AM
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Lubrication and maintenance of Tyco motors:
I just wanted to commend BriansTyco for his timely and useful clinic on Tyco/Mantua motor maintenance.
Thank you,
Magnolia Academy
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Posted - September 27 2006 : 12:07:47 PM
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quote:Lubrication and maintenance of Tyco motors:
I just wanted to commend BriansTyco for his timely and useful clinic on Tyco/Mantua motor maintenance.
Thank you,
Magnolia Academy
Thank you for your comment. I have noticed in other forums questions about lubrication and what to oil which led me to post topic. I have found tyco diagrams that i am going to scan and post also on lubrication.
Originally posted by MagnoliaAcademy - September 27 2006 : 3:27:59 PM
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Posted - September 27 2006 : 11:55:25 PM
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| The oil i am using is by hob-E-lube and life-likes grease gun. On the life-like grease gun the top on mine popped off when i squeezed it-- so i replace it and remove it and use a toothpick to apply grease to the gears and wheel cradles.
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Posted - September 28 2006 : 10:11:42 AM
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Lubricating oil and grease products:
As an adjunct to BriansTyco's fine little primer on Tyco motor maintenance allow me to recommend the products of Labelle Industries, Bensenville, Illinois. You'll find it lingering in some hobby shops or at shows.
I have found two of their products to be particularly useful:
Labelle 101: Synthetic light lubricating oil -- this is a very fine, very light oil, the only negative being (as with most lubricants) you must avoid contact between oil and the plastic shell of your engine.
Labelle 106: lubricating grease with teflon -- a very useful grease for plastic, metal or phenolic resin gears. The Teflon additive really makes for super lubricity. The 106 grease claims to be "plastic compatible" and stain resistant to finishes and I have found the claims to be true in my experience. Both are products I'd recommend to fellow Tycollectors should you run into them.
Thanks, again, BriansTyco, for this useful info!
Magnolia Academy
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Posted - September 28 2006 : 11:18:32 AM
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ATTACHMENT BELOW OF OILING METAL GEAR
 Attachment: IMG_0040.zip ( 81161bytes )
ATTACHMENT OF TRUCK CRADLES AND GEARS WITH GREASE
Attachment: IMG_0043.zip ( 71388bytes )
ATTACHMENT OF GREASE ON TRUCK CRADLE AND GEARS
Attachment: IMG_0045.zip ( 71756bytes )
ATTACHMENT OF OILING BEARING BETWEEN MOTOR CONTACTS WITH MOTOR REMOVED FROM SHELL AND PIVOT MOUNT
Attachment: IMG_0049.zip ( 72298bytes )
Edited by - Brianstyco on September 28 2006 11:32:29 AM
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Posted - September 28 2006 : 2:42:41 PM
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www.yardbirdtrains.com
Yardbird Trains
Parts and possible service for MU-2's and PT's.
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Posted - September 28 2006 : 3:13:46 PM
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quote:Lubricating oil and grease products:
As an adjunct to BriansTyco's fine little primer on Tyco motor maintenance allow me to recommend the products of Labelle Industries, Bensenville, Illinois. You'll find it lingering in some hobby shops or at shows.
I have found two of their products to be particularly useful:
Labelle 101: Synthetic light lubricating oil -- this is a very fine, very light oil, the only negative being (as with most lubricants) you must avoid contact between oil and the plastic shell of your engine.
Labelle 106: lubricating grease with teflon -- a very useful grease for plastic, metal or phenolic resin gears. The Teflon additive really makes for super lubricity. The 106 grease claims to be "plastic compatible" and stain resistant to finishes and I have found the claims to be true in my experience. Both are products I'd recommend to fellow Tycollectors should you run into them.
Thanks, again, BriansTyco, for this useful info!
Magnolia Academy
>>> Thanks MagnoliaAcadamey- Labelle is probably the finest oil & grease on the market for all model train engines. I am out so i am using life-like and the hob-E-lube oil which has a long applicator which is very useful on tyco oiling that bearing and metal gear w/o removing engine.
Originally posted by MagnoliaAcademy - September 28 2006 : 3:11:42 PM
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Posted - September 28 2006 : 3:26:28 PM
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REPLACING METAL AND PLASTIC GEARS------
So you have that tyco engine running down the track and all of a sudden it stops and the motor is running faster but going no where= The metal drive gear on the winding has slid off or the main plastic gear has stripped out. Don't panic. If this happens you have a couple of options. First-the metal drive gear. You take engine out and see the metal gear has slid out to where it will not turn against the plastic gear. You can push back down and apply finger nail polish or loc-tite thread sealant on end to hold in position. Another is to find that engine you've thrown in a box that quit working and pulll the gear off it and swap out. I have done this and it works better a lot of times than the other method described above. The same goes for the other gears that have messed up on you. Save that junker engine and use all good parts off it. just because it doesn't run doesn't mean trash it right away. Strip what you can off the motors to use on running ones. Brian
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Posted - December 05 2007 : 08:18:37 AM
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| Thank you so much for the detailed service instructions here. With the "new" Tyco locos I have recently added to my collection, I was not sure where exactly to put down the oil. I'm printing this sheet out!
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 Posted - June 09 2008 : 10:49:01 PM
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| Thanks so much for putting this maintenance information on here with all of the detailed pictures. I bought a Tyco Rock Island loco and was sad when it squealed around the track. I greased and oiled the areas listed and she runs like new!
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Posted - June 10 2008 : 01:21:15 AM
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Though many people recommend LaBelle products, I use Super Lube oil and grease almost exclusively. Not only are they plastic safe, they're actually food grade.
http://www.aaaindustrialsupply.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=315
http://www.aaaindustrialsupply.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=307
The grease is much better than LaBelle's, which is a bit thick for HO scale locos. This may be to reduce slinging, but I've found that it can bog down weaker pancake motors when used on the gearing, something the SL grease doesn't. Both products used to be available at Radio Shack, but were discontinued a few years ago.
I transfer the oil to a bottle with a needle applicator, and as with this grease, a little goes a long way. Brian, that looks like a very heavy coating of grease on that power truck, and much of it will eventually find its way to the railheads as residue. A small amount in the axle bearings and on the gearing is sufficient, especially since the gearing isn't enclosed.
The biggest problem with these pancake motors is oiling the brush side bearing without it getting oil into the brushes. It's pretty much impossible. Given the proximity, a certain amount is going to end up on the brushes and commutator, and if it's enough it's going to thicken on the hot commutator and act as a brake. This may be the reason so many PT motors go out in a puff of smoke. [XX(]
A quick solution is to spray contact cleaner into the motor to degrease it, which is a lot easier than disassembling the motor every time it happens.
I use this stuff from MG Chemicals, which is available at Radio Shack, even though it's not on their website.
http://www.mgchemicals.com/products/404b.html
This is good electronics grade cleaner, and is plastic safe. The can has low, medium, and high spray settings, so you can really blast that bugger out if you need to. It has easily freed up PT truck motors I've gotten that were considered dead, but only had oil-fouled brushes. It has a little silicone in it for good measure.
I hope these tips help.
The Tyco Depot
Edited by - NickelPlate759 on June 10 2008 01:24:32 AM
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Posted - June 10 2008 : 6:43:57 PM
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[.
Brian, that looks like a very heavy coating of grease on that power truck, and much of it will eventually find its way to the railheads as residue. A small amount in the axle bearings and on the gearing is sufficient, especially since the gearing isn't enclosed.
.
Originally posted by NickelPlate759Â -Â June 10 2008Â :Â 01:21:15 AM
[/quote] Yes -- it is a little thick in the photo's. After running for a few minutes -- no residue on the rails or wheels. The Life -Like grease has no effect on electrical pickup. You are right in a little goes a long way--i now use an old paint brush to grease cradles lighly and gears
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Posted - June 10 2008 : 10:16:31 PM
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quote: Yes -- it is a little thick in the photo's. After running for a few minutes -- no residue on the rails or wheels. The Life -Like grease has no effect on electrical pickup. You are right in a little goes a long way--i now use an old paint brush to grease cradles lighly and gears
Originally posted by Brianstyco - June 10 2008 : 6:43:57 PM
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It may not affect pickup directly, but all oil and grease will attract dirt to the wheels.
I need to get an old brush myself.
The grease looks kind of like icing in that photo. [:p]
The Tyco Depot
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