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 Posted - December 12 2010 : 2:30:59 PM
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wondering if anyone knows anything about this train engine
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Posted - December 12 2010 : 2:52:08 PM
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| hi northa14 apart from the fact its a tyco c-430 what would you like to know ken
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Posted - December 12 2010 : 3:19:02 PM
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| is it rare and is there any way to replace the couplers on it because mine broke and how old is it
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Posted - December 12 2010 : 3:30:28 PM
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| The metal handrails put it at late 60s/early 70s. Couplers are hard to replace because they are in a riveted box, you'd have to be a little handy to open them up and replace them.
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Posted - December 12 2010 : 3:46:30 PM
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This photo reminds me. What's with the small fuel tank and then the bright colored plastic hanging down behind it. The big patches of red on either side of the tank look weird. My BN one was the same, only with green. If those needed to be there why not just paint them black at the factory? Would have cost extra perhaps? I went ahead and painted mine black and I like the look.
~CamdenLine
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Posted - December 12 2010 : 3:49:17 PM
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anyone have any suggestions on replacing the couplers
and the red next to the fuel tanks is kind of wired
Edited by - northa14 on December 12 2010 3:51:38 PM
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Posted - December 12 2010 : 4:16:36 PM
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quote:anyone have any suggestions on replacing the couplers
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The pockets which hold the couplers on yours are metal correct? The way I change these is relatively simple. Stick a mini screwdriver with a flat head in to the pocket and gently pry upwards. The top section of the pocket should pop off taking the pin with it. Take out the broken remnants of the previous coupler and put a new one in. Then simply press the top section of the coupler pocket back on to the bottom part. Squeeze it with a pair of pliers to get the pin back in all the way, then squeeze the sides to make sure everything is snug. If the pocket still seems a little loose, put a drop of glue on it....Walthers Goo or model cement works well.
Sometimes the bottom portion of the coupler pocket (the piece attached to the truck) gets a little bent. If this happens, I usually just squeeze it with a pair of pliers to straighten it out.
Hope that helps.
-cheez
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Posted - December 12 2010 : 4:24:34 PM
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| hey thanks that was a good idea it worked perfectly
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Posted - December 12 2010 : 4:25:21 PM
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quote:Couplers are hard to replace because they are in a riveted box, you'd have to be a little handy to open them up and replace them.
Originally posted by shaygetz - December 12 2010 : 3:30:28 PM
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I don't know about YOUR 4301, Shaygets, but mine aren't riveted.  Not on my Virginians, anyway. There's a flexible plastic arm which holds the coupler on a pin, and you <carefully> lift the arm up off the coupler, and push it up and out. Maybe the older 4301's have a riveted box, but since the picture doesn't depict the coupler box, we shouldn't assume that. I've replaced a number of broken couplers on 4301 engines, and they're not hard to do. You need the whisker type coupler with the VERY small hole to fit the pin. There's also some adapter donuts to put in larger hole coupler arms to adapt those to the smaller pin of Tyco.
quote:| This photo reminds me. What's with the small fuel tank and then the bright colored plastic hanging down behind it. The big patches of red on either side of the tank look weird. ~CamdenLine |
Looks like it was meant to center the weight, but that is held in by 4 tabs, two on each side, so maybe they used a smaller weight / fuel tank shell for cost savings, and those are just extensions painted the body color. Would look funny with all that space between the wheels and fuel tank otherwise, but I admit they saved money by not painting them black like the weight/tank assembly. Just cheapness, on Tyco's part, I think.
Oh, and no, it's not rare. Very common roadname / paint scheme. And age, around late '70's, early '80s? not entirely sure on this one.
Jerry
" When life throws you bananas...it's easy to slip up"
Edited by - AMC_Gremlin_GT on December 12 2010 4:28:25 PM
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Posted - December 12 2010 : 4:31:12 PM
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can you show me a link to a whisker coupler im new and dont know what your talking about
and which couplers specifically would you recommend
Edited by - northa14 on December 12 2010 4:36:25 PM
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Posted - December 12 2010 : 4:39:05 PM
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quote:can you show me a link to a whisker coupler im new and dont know what your talking about
and which couplers specifically would you recommend
Originally posted by northa14Â -Â December 12 2010Â :Â 4:31:12 PM
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Here's an after-market coupler, the GOOD kind, called Kadee -
http://www.trainz.com/p-183512-kadee-158-metal-whisker-medium-coupler-932-2-pair.aspx
The problem is the hole in this Kadee coupler is too big, but if you buy the kit, I think they have the special donuts with the coupler to adapt to the different sized pin holes required. Tyco has a tiny hole.
Jerry
" When life throws you bananas...it's easy to slip up"
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Posted - December 12 2010 : 4:42:35 PM
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| what do you mean by "the kit" is the link that you sent me the kit or is that just the couplers
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Posted - December 12 2010 : 4:46:54 PM
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quote:what do you mean by "the kit" is the link that you sent me the kit or is that just the couplers
Originally posted by northa14Â -Â December 12 2010Â :Â 4:42:35 PM
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Actually, this is probably NOT the right one for Tyco, it just represents what one looks like. After reading the parts that come with this #158 coupler,I don't think it will work for your application.
First thing you NEED to do is determine do you have the older or newer 4301 engine. Turn it over - is the coupler box all black and plastic? The older one's have a metal plate and arm to which the couple box is riveted, the newer ones are all black plastic, and have an easier way to replace the coupler. Once we determine what type you have, we can proceed.
Jerry
" When life throws you bananas...it's easy to slip up"
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Posted - December 12 2010 : 4:52:23 PM
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After rifling thru my Kadee coupler stash, the kit you want ( IF you want to convert to knuckle couplers, the ones that came stock won't work with the Kadee type knuckle unless you cut them up some on your rolling stock. I don't know if there are any original type like came with this engine available, quite frankly ) is #28, it adapts many manufacturers original couplers to the newer style knuckle type, and has the correct adapters in the kit. It's about $4 for a package of 4, enough to do two cars or engines.
Jerry
" When life throws you bananas...it's easy to slip up"
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Posted - December 12 2010 : 5:14:11 PM
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The font used on your Santa Fe's roadnumber indicates late 60's to me. You never see that font used with roadnames that were offered later. Interestingly, Tyco changed the "4301" font every one or two years, for no apparent reason... but it does help date examples. I've got a rough idea of chronology on those but but enough to stake 100% confidence in.
There were two different motors used in the 430: the classic "MU-2" truck from the model's 1966 intro thru about 1973/4, and the infamous Powertorque which took over from 1974 thru 1993. The MU-2 is easily identified by metal construction and a sealed, riveted assembly, as well as the troublesome coupler boxes. The PT is cheap and can be dissassembled with screws.
The Santa Fe was offered in both styles and is a very common locomotive.
The 430 was the only Tyco road switcher that did NOT get an upgrade to plastic handrails; interestingly Tyco still provided the metal ones with the 430 even as late as the mid-80's, although train-set items didn't always include them (separate-sale locos always did).
The fuel tank is a Tyco idiosyncrasy and just one of many examples as to why Tyco fell out of favor (for another, see that red-and-silver-minus-yellow&black-trim SF warbonnet paint job, which NO Santa Fe roadswitcher ever wore). It was purely a cost-savings move: the tank was originally designed for their earlier EMD GP20 and is a direct swap to that unit, where it is quite authentic. That style tank is an EMD trademark; there was no Alco ever built with a fuel tank remotely close. The odd plastic tabs DO betray a meager attempt to at fidelity, as many Alco Centuries had a squared feature there. As for their bright colors: yes, another cost-savings move. They should be black... but since the tank is so grossly incorrect to begin with, one could be forgiven for sparing the effort.
Still, your model appears to be in nice shape so if it runs well, it would be worth keeping around. But don't expect to get much for it should you decide to sell.
Edited by - spiderj76 on December 12 2010 5:21:18 PM
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Posted - December 12 2010 : 5:22:55 PM
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mine has a mu-2 motor how would i go about greasing and lubing it since it is sealed
and what is a good lube to use
Edited by - northa14 on December 12 2010 5:27:49 PM
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Posted - December 12 2010 : 5:22:59 PM
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The coupler lieing on the road is an example of what would have been in your engine. If there's a *good* hobby shop near you, they should be able to help you out.
Here's an example of the two styles of coupler pockets. Yours should be like the one on the left.
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Posted - January 04 2011 : 8:23:06 PM
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i think i have the same locomotive...it says it's from tyco....
~Sohan24
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TKRR
Switcher
Status:
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Posted - January 04 2011 : 10:50:38 PM
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| Nice photos Cheez. Good way to explain the different mounting styles.
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Posted - January 04 2011 : 11:07:04 PM
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neat Well I just replace the broken coupler with the original old one or replace Kadees with old one 
Which I still short of couplers 
UNLESS I get a super DCC fancy loco Then I won't  Well some come with auto couplers lol
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