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 Posted - August 22 2010 : 10:41:59 PM
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I've been experimenting with different types of cleaners for the electrical contact portions of locomotives (brushes, springs, armature faces, wheels & axles, headlight clips, etc.). Lacquer thinner works very well, but you have to be careful not to get it on any painted surface. I bought a jar of coin cleaner at a coin shop and it works amazingly well on brass & copper motor parts. Anybody else know any good cleaners?
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Posted - August 23 2010 : 12:08:54 AM
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| I use rubbing alcohol...the stronger one, I think it's 91% and electrical contact cleaner that I bought at the hardware store.
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Posted - August 23 2010 : 12:46:30 AM
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As B77 said, 91% alcohol and contact cleaner are great, and I also use Bestine, which is sold as rubber cement solvent and is available through art supply companies. It's especially good at disintegrating all hot melt glues, as well as label adhesives without damaging plastics. It's great for degreasing parts like brushes, commutators, etc.
I also discovered recently that Testors thinner works wonders at removing paint rubs from locos and rolling stock without damaging the original finish. I'd test it on an inconspicuous area first though, just to be on the safe side.
The Tyco Depot
Edited by - NickelPlate759 on August 23 2010 12:46:58 AM
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Posted - August 25 2010 : 11:48:45 PM
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Its stuff like this that keeps me involved in this hobby. I really like comments from you guys it makes my life a lot easier.
Thanks to all.
A special thanks to Nelson who has been a great help to me from the start.
Ken
FIDDLEHEAD RAILWAY CO.
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Posted - August 28 2010 : 01:25:19 AM
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I was going to ape Burlington77 and NP759's 91% alcohol and electrical parts cleaner advice , which is absolutely sound, but one thing I can add is that cleaning commutators, burnishing contacts, or polishing patched seams is done quite effectively with those dual-surface fingernail files you find at the druggist/chemist/Walgreen's/CVS/whatever your local is; I stole my girlfriend's nail buffer , using both sides to polish a patch on a F40PH that I was turning into an Amtrak "Cabbage", and the results were brilliant. I then used the fine side of the nail buffer on a Mantua motor, and she runs like a top now. You have to use the 91% alcohol to rinse the parts after spinning the motor, but the results are ace!
"It is better to have loafed and lost, than never to have loafed at all." James Thurber
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Posted - August 28 2010 : 10:51:29 AM
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Can't add anything to the alcohol/contact cleaner idea...been using that for many years...denatured alcohol ("meths" to those in the UK) is a step stronger, just hafta be careful with some finishes.
One thing I do is put rubbing alcohol in a spray bottle, then lay a paper towel over a length of track. I then spritz the towel with some alcohol, throttle up and carefully hold my better diesel models (those with all wheel pickup and gearing) in such a way that they are running one truck, then the other over the soaked towel, carefully sliding the towel one way or the other to keep clean towel under the wheels. Once you get the knack, it is a super fast, super efficient way to clean wheel treads.
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Posted - August 28 2010 : 2:59:37 PM
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I neglected to mention that I put the Testors thinner of a Q-tip, and go over the paint rub lightly until it starts to disappear. It usually takes a minute for it to start working. I generally get a trace of the loco's color as well, but in my experience it doesn't damage the finish. The buff it up with dry end of the Q-tip (but not too hard on a flat finish).
The Tyco Depot
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 Posted - September 21 2010 : 7:56:41 PM
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For brass parts I use never dull, it works well and is not abrasive. For track i use never dull and a cotton wheel on a low speed dremel.
Build it bigger!
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