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 Identification Station
 removing coupling on a varney
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catfordken
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 Posted - February 22 2010 :  5:14:31 PM Link directly to this topic  Show Profile  Send catfordken a Yahoo! Message  Add catfordken to Buddylist
anyone know easy way to remove old coupling,plus my model making desk ken



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NickelPlate759
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 Posted - February 22 2010 :  7:25:20 PM Link directly to this reply  Show Profile  Add NickelPlate759 to Buddylist
Nice workbench! The plastic post looks like it is spread like a rivet, so if it is you could remove those edges with a drill bit in a pin vise. Or am I wrong and the pin is actually protruding above the plate? It's hard to tell.

You might even be able to pry it loose. Are you planning on installing Kadees?

The Tyco Depot
Edited by - NickelPlate759 on February 22 2010 7:30:00 PM
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catfordken
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 Posted - February 22 2010 :  7:50:53 PM Link directly to this reply  Show Profile  Send catfordken a Yahoo! Message  Add catfordken to Buddylist
NickelPlate759 yes ken
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farace
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 Posted - February 22 2010 :  9:55:45 PM Link directly to this reply  Show Profile  Add farace to Buddylist
I was just dealing with one of these last night, but on mine, a previous owner had installed Kadee #4s, and they weren't working right. I managed to pry the lid off even though it was glued on (the fact that it had been off once before might make my experience different from yours). It became obvious why the Kadees weren't working right; according to Kadee, you're supposed to round off the plastic shaft that the coupler pivots on. The PO didn't do this. Plus, he lost the tiny little pellet thingy that goes inside the spring for the #4 (no big surprise there; the #4 seems to be made of tiny bits on the order of subatomic particles).

Well, in the process of installing new #4 couplers, I managed to bust the plastic pin completely off. With no other option, I shaved down the rest of the coupler pocket to leave a flat platform, installed the #4 into the metal draft gear box that comes with them, and glued it place with some CA. I think that what I ended up with is better than what I would have had if I hadn't busted the pin and had installed the #4 into the coupler pocket.

If I was to start another one of these from scratch, I'd jump right to cutting down the pocket and installing a #5 with draft gear box with a screw, and I'd stay away from the #4 and all its godawful fiddly bits.

--Bob
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Erich
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 Posted - February 23 2010 :  01:00:11 AM Link directly to this reply  Show Profile  Add Erich to Buddylist

(Varney)

Seems to be a Q-Tip job I discribed some times before.
I removed the lid brutal with a screw driver.
But you could also cut away the head of the post (rod). - Erich

Edited by - Erich on February 23 2010 01:21:12 AM
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catfordken
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 Posted - February 23 2010 :  06:45:43 AM Link directly to this reply  Show Profile  Send catfordken a Yahoo! Message  Add catfordken to Buddylist
cheers eric thought i might find a simple way but brute force or sharp knife it is ken
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NickelPlate759
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 Posted - February 23 2010 :  09:51:53 AM Link directly to this reply  Show Profile  Add NickelPlate759 to Buddylist
If you have sharp enough diagonal cutters like Xurons, you can just nip the end off.
The Tyco Depot
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