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 Repairing an Amtrak F7 with MU-2 drive.
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Srenchin
Big Boy


CNRedAvatar

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 Posted - January 01 2010 :  2:44:49 PM Link directly to this topic  Show Profile  Add Srenchin to Buddylist
Hello All,

I just purchased an Amtrak F7 through eBay which needs an overhaul. Those of you who have been reading my recent posts know that I successfully repaired a "red box era" GP 20 so I would like to do the same with this F7.

Unfortunately I have run into a problem. Unlike my GP 20's MU-2 power truck which is held together with two long screws with nuts, the F7's MU-2 truck is held together with rivets!

The only way I can get access to the electric motor is to grind off the rivets with my Dremel tool. Is there another way of removing the rivets without destroying them? If I do have to destroy the rivets, what size screws and nuts should I use?

Finally why would Tyco make a locomotive that is put together in such a way that you can not get access to the armature, commutator, and brushes without destroying critical parts in the process?

Scott

Proudly keeping Tyco Pluggers out of landfills since 2016
 Country: USA  ~  Posts: 821  ~  Member Since: December 26 2009  ~  Last Visit: June 23 2025 Alert Moderator 

NickelPlate759
Big Boy



Rivarossi Logo

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 Posted - January 01 2010 :  4:40:59 PM Link directly to this reply  Show Profile  Add NickelPlate759 to Buddylist
They were all riveted together, Scott, and that's one thing that always bothered me about the MU-2. You can do most maintenance with the truck intact by removing the brushes and blasting it out with contact cleaner, and cleaning the commutator slots. If you do take it apart you'll have to grind off the rivet heads, and I think 4-40 screws are the right size, but I haven't done it myself so someone else may know better.
The Tyco Depot
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Srenchin
Big Boy


CNRedAvatar

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 Posted - January 01 2010 :  9:44:03 PM Link directly to this reply  Show Profile  Add Srenchin to Buddylist
I did not know that they all came riveted together, my GP 20 must have been taken apart by its previous owner because it was held together with nuts and screws. Strange design though, why would Tyco/Mantua build their products so they could not be disassembled?

Considering the fact that this particular engine has visible signs of rust on the bottom cover plate I think it would be best to remove the rivets and perform a thorough cleaning and re-lubrication job. I'll have to go to the hardware store to get replacement screws and nuts.

Thank you NKP 759 or the information and recommendation!!!!

Scott

Proudly keeping Tyco Pluggers out of landfills since 2016
 Country: USA  ~  Posts: 821  ~  Member Since: December 26 2009  ~  Last Visit: June 23 2025 Alert Moderator  Go To Top Of Page

DaCheez
Big Boy



Nose

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 Posted - January 01 2010 :  9:49:13 PM Link directly to this reply  Show Profile  Click to see DaCheez's MSN Messenger address  Add DaCheez to Buddylist
I know there was a topic a while back about this exact subject. It should be under the Tyco Maintenance category.


EDIT:

I'm pretty sure this is the one I was thinking of. It has some good info.

http://tycoforums.com/tyco/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=6070

Edited by - DaCheez on January 01 2010 9:54:25 PM
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romcat
Big Boy



LondonPortStanley

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 Posted - January 01 2010 :  10:31:17 PM Link directly to this reply  Show Profile  Add romcat to Buddylist
You've sure fixed enough of them Cheez!

-Gareth

"A is A"
-Aristotle
Law of Identification
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Adams
Big Boy


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 Posted - January 02 2010 :  5:59:47 PM Link directly to this reply  Show Profile  Add Adams to Buddylist
Ironically, Mantua later produced MU-2 locos (after Tyco's demise) that did start using screws instead of rivets. Also, I think that crazy, plastic MU-2 used for a short time was able to be taken apart also.
 Country: USA  ~  Posts: 874  ~  Member Since: October 15 2007  ~  Last Visit: June 09 2019 Alert Moderator  Go To Top Of Page

DaCheez
Big Boy



Nose

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 Posted - January 02 2010 :  7:24:05 PM Link directly to this reply  Show Profile  Click to see DaCheez's MSN Messenger address  Add DaCheez to Buddylist
The plastic MU-2's did use screws. Those are actually the only MU-2's I've ever opened up. Never had a need to drill out the rivets on an older one (although I'm sure some of the ones I have could use a good cleaning)

Does anyone know if Mantua ever used a riveted MU-2 after separating from Tyco? I know this is a little off topic, but I have an F-7 with no name on the tank and characteristics like A Mantua engine, but it has a riveted truck.
 Country: Canada  ~  Posts: 3422  ~  Member Since: September 22 2006  ~  Last Visit: August 20 2025 Alert Moderator  Go To Top Of Page

NC shortlines
Big Boy


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 Posted - January 04 2010 :  8:07:30 PM Link directly to this reply  Show Profile  Add NC shortlines to Buddylist
Here is a source for rivets.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#solid-rivets/=58gfln
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burlington77
Big Boy


burlington2

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 Posted - January 04 2010 :  11:12:04 PM Link directly to this reply  Show Profile  Add burlington77 to Buddylist
This is an upcoming project for me as well. I've worked on the plastic ones with success, so I finally took the rivets off an older one that wasn't running well. It's still sitting in pieces, though.
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