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 Posted - April 20 2008 : 03:08:43 AM
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For those of you wondering how it works... click the vid and enjoy...
And if you DID enjoy it, I wouldn't mind a shout-out in the YouTube comments, http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nyMUd1gN43U
I have to say I'm more and more impressed with this. If those thin-profile motors can work this well AND be had for a dollar a piece, I am so doing more of these. It sounds noisy in the video but a lot of that is because of the compression. At slow speed it actually has a very cool "grunt".
Now all I need is a set of handrails for that alco!
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 Posted - April 20 2008 : 03:29:44 AM
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What a real Hoot!
Imagine with two powered trucks (Cue the GIC-Bender laugh track!)
Here's my Youtube reply. For many; you're just too young to appreciate this, but I'll post it anyway...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7ISXO28z29c&feature=related
Not big enough grins for this...
Hot Wimmin, Cars, music OOORRRAAAHHHHHH.
-Gareth
PS: If Thats not enough, and Petula doesn't crank you up, ....
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fFBP063uTgQ&feature=related
-Gareth
Edited by - romcat on May 25 2008 11:19:46 AM
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 Posted - April 20 2008 : 07:20:05 AM
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GiC,
Nice work on the PT conversion vid. Lots of fun to see. Lots of fun is good. My kid is a youtuber and I'm going to send the link. Thanks for the credit, it was a hoot and I think my daughter will think so too. Your layout is the perfect backdrop for the event.
This could turn into a reality show called "American Power Torques Choppers" or something.[;)]
BTW I am working on a shell for my new drive which I might get done today. It was a shell I had stripped over a month ago and didn't know then I was going to try this.
Bob/ Alco Fan
Alco Fan
Edited by - Alco Fan on April 20 2008 07:30:17 AM
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 Posted - April 20 2008 : 08:06:26 AM
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hi gic,again you have proved your talents,excellent article and conversion.
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Posted - April 20 2008 : 1:52:22 PM
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| Now if you can just figure out a hack for the two drive gears that break all the time.[:D]
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Posted - April 20 2008 : 2:06:51 PM
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| I'm impressed. You never cease to amaze.
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Posted - April 21 2008 : 12:06:25 AM
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Hey Todd:
Thanks! Really appreciate the praise. I just wanna thank the Academy and Gawd and oh wait, did you mean GIC!?[:O)] [:O)] [:O)] [:X]
-Gareth
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Posted - April 21 2008 : 03:08:19 AM
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Great video Tony.
I think the gear noise is more noticeable because of the lack of motor noise that the original PT motor made.
I plan to replace the motors in a few more of my locos too. With Bob's proven bored out motor pinion it is a relitively easy swap.
I would like to find a supply of replacement gears though. I have a feeling that they are going to be the weak link in the system. (mainly the plastic ones)
Ray
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Posted - April 21 2008 : 1:42:37 PM
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Yeah it is funny how different the noise is. The motor definitely has a new character. But I think it sounds pretty cool myself... at some speeds it actually almost sounds like a car. Either way it's very mechanical and authentic as it lugs around.
Part of the noise in my case might be because of the machining involved. It does have a slight pulsing rhythm. I figure this might be because the pinion bore is ever so slightly (thousands of a mm?) off-center... or the new reduction gear stud I had to make is off by the same amount.
Also... I did not have much in the form of lubrication on there yet. And by "not much" I mean "nothing actually visible". I did add a tiny bit of grease to the studs, and oil to the bearings, and that was it. It should be much quieter with a standard dose of grease, but I wanted to test it with nothing added to the system (and it worked so well I actually forgot to add more, LOL).
I probably should try a macro photo of the pinion bore. There really is not any room for error on those.
Either way though, it holds up and performs like a screamer, as evidenced in the vid, so it's all good.
I also wonder about long-term durability but I guess there's only one way to find out though...
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Posted - April 21 2008 : 2:29:45 PM
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Anyone know if changing from plastic to metal, brass, spur gears will ameilorate the gear whine?
Is this resonance from the teeth meshing in two gears meshing?
-Gareth
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 Posted - April 21 2008 : 4:06:00 PM
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Great job on the loco and the video, Tony! I'm impressed, especially that you were able to repair those broken pins.
quote:Anyone know if changing from plastic to metal, brass, spur gears will ameilorate the gear whine?
Is this resonance from the teeth meshing in two gears meshing?
-Gareth
Originally posted by romcat - April 21 2008 : 7:29:45 PM
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No, it wouldn't. Changing to metal might change the quality of the gear noise, but anytime you have a pinion turning at motor speed, you're going to get some noise. I think Marklin uses straight lines of gears that are quiet, but they manufacture to very strict tolerances. Some manufacturers like Rivarossi and Penn Line (on their Midget switcher) used teeth that were pitched diagonally to reduce the noise of the teeth meshing.
Loved the Penn Central... er, I mean Plymouth commercial. [:D]
The Tyco Depot
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Posted - April 21 2008 : 4:22:45 PM
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Hey NP:
I guess cutting the teeth diagonally on the spur gear changes the pitch (pun) of the whine!
BtB (By the By) the pinion gear is still a spur gear (very small diameter) is it not? OR because it's on the output shaft or armature shaft, the term pinion supersedes "spur" in this application?
As to the Ad, yeah. Bet PC fans loved it! "Oh, were those cars, on those cars!!!!" [:D] [:D] [:D]
-Gareth
Edited by - romcat on April 21 2008 4:26:24 PM
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 Posted - April 21 2008 : 4:39:19 PM
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In my mind a pinion is just a small spur gear, but I don't know if that's technically correct. We used pinion in the toy business for any small gear on a motor shaft.
Edit: Wikipedia to the rescue! http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pinion
The Tyco Depot
Edited by - NickelPlate759 on April 21 2008 4:40:57 PM
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 Posted - April 21 2008 : 5:05:39 PM
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So it must be a Drive/Pinion/Spur gear!
Ah, now thats ART! [:D] [:D] [:D]
-Gareth
Edited by - romcat on April 27 2008 11:07:02 PM
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Posted - April 21 2008 : 6:24:52 PM
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| Hi FrankenTony--L-O-L[:D] Great job on that remotor. Runs good and looks to pull better than the power porker motor
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Posted - January 14 2009 : 7:13:40 PM
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First post, hello everyone.
I have a couple questions. I know this is an old thread, but I'm wondering if the re-motor is still going strong?
Why did you have to make a new reduction gear stud? Is it part of the swap?
where can we buy these little motors?
What is Bob's proven bored out motor pinion?
I had all super 630's & a few of the sd-24's. I sold them all because they ran like crap. I wish I would have known of this before I sold them. I love old Tyco engines. they are great looking pieces of art. to bad they didn't last.
Thanks, I really look forward to my membership here.
Jerry
jerry
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Posted - January 14 2009 : 10:29:35 PM
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Hi Jerry,
Welcome aboard. Sorry, I got your YT mail a couple days ago but I hadn't had a chance to follow up properly, and I don't normally keep up with YT that regularly so please don't be offended.
Anyhow, on to your questions:
- The loco still does run. It's part of the main ops fleet so it doesn't have too many miles on it. But I fully expect it would fail eventually. The motor was designed for 12V max but an HO powerpack puts out 18 at full throttle. Without a resistor or something, it's a matter of time before it would burn up. But if you're gentle it could last a while.
- I shouldn't have had to make a stud, but I broke one AFTER I bored out the block, so I my hand was forced. I drilled out the broken stud and used some backstock off a drill bit to make a new one, and it's held in with superglue.
- Haven't found a bulk source but I think others had been pursuing that. Best source is CD players. The portable "walkman" type are best because the motors are low profile. I got mine from a scrap computer CD-ROM drive but it was the 4th I'd tried (others were too big).
- Not sure on the pinion. I reused the stock one, bored just enough to fit the new motor.
Hope that helps! And welcome again.
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Posted - January 15 2009 : 7:07:24 PM
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that's fine about the you tube email, i don't ever check mine either. i think it turned out being something to do with me having an AOL email account. this site just would not send me a confirmation email to activate my account. i had to start a yahoo email account & registered again through it. finally i got my confirmation email, so here i am. I've looked for years for a Tyco forum to join & finally i found one. i guess that's why it was driving me crazy not being able to finalize my membership.
anyhow, how did you bore out the housing for the little pan motor? did you use a dremel or did you actually have to machine it? how well did a lube job help on the noise? not that the noise is a big deal, i have a couple athearn loco's that are just plain noisy.
I'm going to buy me another golden eagle to try this out on. If I have any luck, I'll buy them all again. I love the 630s.
has anyone asked about a follow up video?
sorry for so many questions.
thanks, Jerry
jerry
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Posted - January 17 2009 : 04:07:46 AM
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Tony,
I think that pinion will wear thru long before the motor gives out. I've put them in a Bachmann 4-4-0, a Rivarossi U25C and Y6b, and all run very well with no signs of overheating. Those inexpensive can motors seem to run reliably well above their rated voltage. It depends on the number of windings on the armature (more is better). I've had one or two that burned out while testing, but they absolutely screamed at full throttle and were probably only good for a few volts.
The Tyco Depot
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Posted - January 17 2009 : 8:39:35 PM
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where did you find the motors?
jerry
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Posted - January 19 2009 : 02:50:57 AM
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Take apart some old CD ROM drives. The motor that opens and closes the tray is usually this pancake type.
The Tyco Depot
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Posted - January 19 2009 : 09:40:45 AM
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quote:| What is Bob's proven bored out motor pinion? originaly posted by Smokie |
Welcome Smokie
Ray M. used that when refering to drilling out the old power torque "pinion" gear to put on the thicker replacement motor shaft.
I found a really slim motor in a yard sale personal CD player that cleared the middle axle on a Super 630 but it burned up quickly. I have put resistors on the last 2 conversions and that seems to help.
The last motor that I used was very thick, I had written down it's width but don't have that with me. It caused problems with the truck swivel in a GP20 even with modification to the bogey and sanding the inside of the short hood for extra clearance. I put that conversion into a BN Shark and it had plenty of room.
Bob
Alco Fan
Edited by - Alco Fan on January 19 2009 10:05:29 AM
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Posted - January 19 2009 : 5:53:14 PM
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is there a athearn frame that will work on these bodies with a little modification?
jerry
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Posted - January 20 2009 : 03:14:48 AM
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An Athearn U30C will fit under a TYCO Century 628...
An Athearn U30B should fit just as well respectibly.
Z
I don't have a one track mind. It depends on the turn-out.
"I love your catenary!"
Is that a power-trip or just another pick-up line?
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Posted - January 30 2009 : 10:30:45 PM
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is there a another frame that will work with these alco 430 bodies with a little modification? i bought a silver streak last week & it's already down. the pinion gear has worn out in about 20 minutes. the plastic gear it rides on is perfect. i don't understand that at all.
thanks
jerry
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Posted - January 31 2009 : 12:11:46 AM
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I am not sure if there is a frame with the correct wheel base as the C-430.
Maybe a frame like this one would work if the dimentions were lengthened.
http://www.2guyzandsumtrains.com/Content/pa=showpage/pid=23.html
The first photo is of the chassis I discribe how to build in the link.
The second is for a RPP GP60 shell.
/tyco/forum/uploaded/Ray Marinaccio/u33bframe.jpg
/tyco/forum/uploaded/Ray Marinaccio/gp60frame.jpg
Ray
Edited by - Ray Marinaccio on January 31 2009 12:33:06 AM
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