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Posted - September 07 2007 : 5:41:48 PM
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i have a fa2 new york central by lifelike proto 2000,but no instructions,can someone confirm right method of body removal before i take a guess cheers ken
 MY REASON FOR ASKING IS THAT LOCO BODY DOES NOT SIT SQUARE TO CHASSIS,AS IF SOMETHING IS MISSING AT REAR MAKING LOCO LOOK LIKE ITS GOT ITS NOSE IN THE AIR
Edited by - catfordken on September 12 2007 07:29:30 AM
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Posted - September 07 2007 : 6:14:53 PM
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Ken:
I'm in New York as you know but will be driving through the night to get home to Toronto. I have a P2K FA and I'll look at the instructions tomorrow if no one else has. I'll try to ship your Athearn Monday and send photo's of all those Tyco Loco's to ya as well.
-G
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Posted - September 07 2007 : 6:25:44 PM
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| cheers gareth looking forward to receiving,what was it,ken
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Posted - September 07 2007 : 6:47:58 PM
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An Athearn GE U-28B in N&W
-G
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Posted - September 07 2007 : 7:58:26 PM
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Ken, here are four screws under the fuel tank holding the shell. They are the four outboard screws that go into the frame. The other four going through the weight hold the weight/motor together.
To get the fuel tank off one has to be weery, weery careful… The tank is just snapped on but the clearance between the truck brake rigging is close and there are the air tanks and piping on the fuel tank itself to consider. Easy does it. Lightly pry with a slotted jewelers driver, the tank usually pops lose with the minimum of pressure.
Of course the front coupler has to be removed but it looks like that’s been done already.
Now, all that said, check with Gareth or someone else to make sure my memory is not defevtice….
Loopy
If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem.
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Posted - September 08 2007 : 05:40:51 AM
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hi LOOPNHOOK NOT OBTREY? MY SINCERE APPOLOGIES yes right one the ball,but 2 screws are missing will have to replace front coupling missing,thats what you get when you buy cheap,many thanks ken
Edited by - catfordken on September 12 2007 07:27:24 AM
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alcopj
Switcher
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Posted - September 10 2007 : 03:21:48 AM
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| Hope you have the coupling boxes, They are not the same as the athern types.
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Posted - September 13 2007 : 01:04:14 AM
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Drill your own hole for the coupler. I permenantly MU'd My FA(dummy) with the P1K F-3 (bells & whistles)... made my own drawbar. Also be aware that the FA's also have the fan-shroud mechanisms. It may interfere with part of the shell. I also had that high-nose ordeal, like it had bad springs or shocks. I will look to see if the screws are missing.
These are good runners, My MU job also consisted of putting a decoder in it from another Proto RS-18. The F-3 weight/chassi goes 90% flush with the top of the shell... not leaving any room for the speaker. So, I put the speaker assembly in the dummy FA, and wired up the pick-ups from the wheels with the pushing B-Unit, giving this pair of locomotives 16 wheel pick-up.
Screw-on draw bars makes closer coupling, make both units as an individual locomotive. I repeated this with a pair of Atlas/Roco CN S-4's, and an A & B unit F-7's #'d 6500 & 6501 by Athearn. I had also did this with an IHC CN 4-6-2 Pacific... Not two of them together, but I attached the light bulb in the tender pick-ups to the locomotive motor for an additional four wheel pick-up each side.
Okay, more than you asked for.
John
I don't have a one track mind. It depends on the turn-out. "I love your catenary!" Is that a power-trip or just another pick-up line?
Edited by - zebrails on September 19 2007 05:19:16 AM
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Posted - September 13 2007 : 5:05:37 PM
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| thanks for all the tips guys,taken onboard,but no i do not have the coupling box for front coupling,ken
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