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alcopj
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 Posted - August 23 2007 : 05:13:59 AM
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HI
Im new here! Im thinking of coverting my AHM GP-18 to all wheel picup to better sute my layout. How do I get the trcucks, truck plates off? I see tabs for the plates but have had no luck in getting them to detach?
Any help would be very much appreciated.
Thank You!
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Posted - August 23 2007 : 08:58:51 AM
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Hi:
Have a look here:
http://hoseeker.net/AHMRivarossiassembly/ahmrs2pg1.jpg
http://hoseeker.net/AHMRivarossiassembly/ahmalcors21976.jpg
And welcome aboard!
-Gareth
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Posted - August 23 2007 : 10:40:49 PM
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Release the truck frames from the locking tabs (they're on the upper part of each truck towards the fuel tank), then pull them down and slide them off the upper half of the coupler boxes.
I recently made a dual-drive C-Liner from a dummy unit by buying an inexpensive Model Power F3 and cannibalizing it for drive parts. The trucks had minor differences that prevented a direct swap, so I drilled holes in 2 wipers and mounted them to the truck housings on the sides with no wiper retainer by using small screws.
Nelson
The Tyco Depot
Edited by - NickelPlate759 on August 23 2007 10:42:31 PM
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alcopj
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Posted - August 24 2007 : 4:40:55 PM
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Thank You both for the help! I used a min screw dirver to un-hook the trucks form the frame. Im in the process of adding the new collecorts. Ive found the two I Was going to use, from a scraped Bachmann F9 are too small. Im going to strip a none-oprating Rrs r3 I got for $5 for its collectors. One more thing, is there a trick to get the solder to stick to the motors contact points?
Thanks again!
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Posted - January 29 2008 : 1:37:03 PM
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quote:One more thing, is there a trick to get the solder to stick to the motors contact points?
Thanks again! |
Sorry this reply is a few months late, but I don't check in here often, and I guess I don't receive email notification of replies. [:I] [Oops!]
If you haven't hooked up the motor after all of this time, be sure to remove the brass brush retainers before soldering, but remove them inside a plastic bag because those brush springs will fly! If the lug resists soldering or has some corrosion, prep it with a little 400 or 600 grit sandpaper. Solder the wires to the lugs and reinstall, taking care not to crush the brush springs or launch them across the house. Good luck!
The Tyco Depot
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alcopj
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 Posted - June 03 2008 : 01:44:29 AM
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Hi everyone!
Id thought I’d give an update on my progress with this conversion. The truth is, I did attempt to solder the wires directly to the motor with disastrous consciences. I worped some of the plastic, making it almost impossible to reattach the plates to the motor. What finally made me give up, on this loco, was when all of the wires came disconcerted at once. In short, the engine is now a part-source or spars what ever you wish to call it.
Since then, I’ve converted my layout to DCC. This change caused me to go through all of my locomotives, to see, which ones would be converted to run on DCC. One of my long suffering Bachmann Chessie System GP18, same underpinnings except all wheel pickup from the factory, that I had as a kid and had made many tips to the basement floor caught my eye. I found that the wiring setup was perfect for a board style decoder. I promptly bought a board decoder for it and quickly got it to run! To my amazement, it ran better in DCC then it did in dc mode! With my confidence back to 100%, I decided to try the whole all wheel drive thing another try! This time with a new approach!
I used an AHM Chicago Northwestern GP18 I had bought a while back for an all wheel pickup conversion that I never did. I took the two factory wheel wipers off the now scraped GP 18 I had initially tried to this on. Using a new type of flux, that has solder mixed in, I cleaned one of the collectors and attached one of the wires the other was still attached. This stuff was so effective, that it made the once corroded wheel wipers look like they had just come out of the factory! Next I disassembled and greased the trucks. All of the grease that was factory applied had owned up off to the side, instead of one the gears. Before placing the truck covers back on, I slipped the wipers in place. Next I got rid of the stock light mount as well as the mettle clips for the bulbs. I cut the wires so that two could be used to connect the motor to the board as well as the positive and negative feeds. Next I added a small section of wire where I had cut the wire by the stock light mount so the positive current wire could reach the board. Next, I insulted the top of the motor with tape, to stop the board form getting any ideas of shorting out. I then put the board in place on top of the motor. The wiring is simple the board has one positive and one negative connection on the front as well as one positive and one negative connection on the back and two connections for the motor in the middle, just make sure that all of the wires go strait across to their points and don’t cross over each other. After connecting the two positive and the two negative connections I connected the motor to the board.
I turned my DCC controller on and to my excitement, it worked perfectly! I proceeded to connected the lights and begin soldering the connections. I will post some pictures once I get all of the soldering done. The best this about this conversion is that the decoder is dual mode. This is to say, it will work in DCC as well as in DC mode! Thanks’ again to all those that have helped me!
Edited by - alcopj on June 08 2008 02:33:05 AM
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Posted - June 07 2008 : 1:40:49 PM
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Outstanding!
I am happy your project did get taken care of. And as with all projects, I see it "evolved" along the way. Seems mine often do the same.
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alcopj
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 Posted - June 07 2008 : 11:19:01 PM
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Here are the pics! Sorry, but this is the only way i could post them.
 Attachment: PICT0058.JPG ( 547525bytes )
Edited by - alcopj on June 07 2008 11:20:22 PM
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alcopj
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Posted - June 07 2008 : 11:25:18 PM
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Heres a look under the hood!
Attachment: PICT0061.JPG ( 591576bytes )
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