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 Posted - November 07 2020 : 3:02:02 PM
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re-post here to give ti a proper place for easier searching
anyway I found a file for models of tyco hooks to be 3d printed. sadly, they are a poor quality design that sticks in coupler pockets and tend to twist and jam, and also do not allow full swing left to right
so I priten some, tested. took pics. made a rough corrected model, printed and tested more, then realized I really should design from scratch (better, stronger, smoother)
I am also upgrading one of my printers to print with a smaller .2mm nozzle which might mean a second full redesign to exploit them finer detail
so, picture dump of progress so far, I'll reply to this post with updates and answer questions here. I am already looking for uncoupler units for further testing
print model with time and cost estimates (price is off, approx double it for base plastic costs)
internet model examples showing uncoupler peg in wrong spot
redesigned with slightly better uncoupler pegs
model of older redesigned hook and measures hook pocket to help model newer design
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Posted - November 07 2020 : 3:10:56 PM
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I have been finding that just about EVERY SINGLE CURVE of the horn hook is deliberately designed, and has specific meaning. I asked earlier if the uncoupler peg was used for anything else besides uncoupling, and after testing the answer is YES.
so designing a better one means I need to understand all the design features, and I think I have it all figured out
since I have the pocket already modeled, it wont be hard to model up the rest of a truck axles and wheels
then I can cut up the models to something that will print nicely
3d printers like having models that have one flat side, and then have nothing with more than a 45 degree angle overhang (sometimes you can pull of 70 degree). that means an upside down pointy pyramid doesn't print well, but a squat one does, and stuff like balls can be a real headache (cut em in half and glue the halves together after printing)
things like wheels and axles would be best to print as two wheels and an axle, rather than try to print all once piece (or cut in half, with an ugly seam)
then there are strength issues. printing an axle straight up mean lots of layers that can break, whicl printing sideways can cause roundness issues (best to design 90% of the axle square if possible)
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Posted - November 07 2020 : 3:48:08 PM
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This is a very interesting blog. A lot of things I never knew about this
ubiquitous little coupler.
I rather liked the very old hook and loop coupler of the early '50's. Those things were just about
bullet proof.
Edited by - Chops124 on November 07 2020 3:52:07 PM
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Posted - November 07 2020 : 9:59:32 PM
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Incredible process.
"Let your light so shine before men, that they may see your good works, and glorify your Father which is in Heaven." - Matthew 5:16
Youtube Channel: www.youtube.com/rpmodelrailroads
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 Posted - November 08 2020 : 3:41:03 PM
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| hey! You oughta try repopping those Tyco triple trucks we all needs!
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Posted - November 26 2020 : 03:52:32 AM
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Ever thought of trying those mold making kits?
I need to repro Walther's coupler covers and I thought that might work???
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Posted - November 26 2020 : 11:20:45 AM
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quote:hey! You oughta try repopping those Tyco triple trucks we all needs!
Originally posted by microbusss - November 08 2020 : 3:41:03 PM
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I can use either double or triple trucks
yes, I am working on designs. the main truck platform and then two side pieces, should I try to attempt re-designing wheels and axles too?. the hook pocket is somewhat difficult to be able to get easily printable
but yes, this is on the to-do list, specifically for the crane car
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