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AJH4
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 Posted - August 19 2019 : 11:26:42 AM
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Original GP20 and Alco 430 from Chattanooga and Spirit of '76 sets from personal childhood sets were found in long-term storage. Bought new Atlas track and used old MRC Tech II controller to test and both ran not at all at first. Cleaned and oiled and ran sporadically (as if hitting gap in tracks, but no gaps). Used light grinding and sanding to clean contacts. Worked a bit better, but still choppy. Re-soldered wire on one. Still just OK. Not really functional. Any recommendations? Would rather just replace engine with old shells, but I understand there is no good fit. Recommendations? Anybody have a step by step on rebuilding and replacement (substitute) parts list? Or buy a couple off of eBay and cannibalize and rebuild -- once I figure out how.
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Posted - August 19 2019 : 3:04:15 PM
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Sounds like PT motors, which others have beefed up using
stronger magnets. One link of several at the bottom
of this post.
My belief is that the weakest point in those motors is the
pinion gear, which is small and crappy piece of plastic
prone to snapping off. Might help to add a tiny dab of
super glue to
where it joins axle to strengthen it- a little.
Myself, I got rid of most my PT motors and replaced them
with stronger Mantua open frame MU 2 motors. About 20
to $25 a whack, to do that.
A new member named Bamos has beefed up those motors
using stronger magnets, and he may be able to give some
strong advice how to do it right. Throw him a PM.
Here's one link of several. Good luck and let us know
how it goes. Those two are Tyco Classics.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-m7rRw-VguQ
Edited by - Chops124 on August 19 2019 3:05:47 PM
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Posted - August 19 2019 : 4:00:58 PM
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I have several Powertorque locomotives that run well, and see heavy use with little or no trouble.
First: both of yours do run and move, just sporadically, so it doesn't sound bad to me.
Remove the screws holding the cover plates on the trucks, then remove the axles and clean them, and the axle slots. Replace the axles in the correct orientation and add a tiny drop of Labelle 108 or 3-n-1 to each axle.
Make sure the metal wheels are clean, then make sure the traction tires are present on the plastic drive wheels.
With everything back together, run each locomotive at about 3/4 throttle, and leave it running for 20 - 30 minures at least to allow everything to seat in.
If BOTH locos still stutter, look at your powet or track.
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Posted - August 19 2019 : 7:10:50 PM
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I've seen old models in which the gear grease turned into a hard white wax. I don't know if that's what ails your engines, but if it is, cleaning out that crud and putting in fresh grease works wonders.
Carpe Manana!
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Posted - August 20 2019 : 07:51:51 AM
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Saggy with these vintage motor drives your problem is sooner or later faced by us all. UGG! Motor crud!
My recent motor repair is a broken brush insulator plate on the HObbyline ERIE FA-1. I started it yesterday, had dinner and went off to have a few with some friends. My repair is still waiting for my return to complete.
frank
toptrain
" It's a Heck of a Day " !!!
Edited by - toptrain on August 20 2019 07:57:46 AM
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Posted - August 20 2019 : 7:16:05 PM
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quote:I've seen old models in which the gear
grease turned into a hard white wax. I don't know if
that's what ails your engines, but if it is, cleaning out
that crud and putting in fresh grease works wonders.
Originally posted by scsshaggy - August 19 2019 : 7:10:50 PM
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I agree, old hardened gear lube will not only cause
poor operation but could also cause permanent damage
to the mechanism. Tyco incidentally was notorious for
over lubricating their locomotives at the factory. If
your old engines have never been properly cleaned,
old gear lube may be causing your problems.
Whenever I acquire on old locomotive that has not
been run in a long time I clean it out with a
PLASTIC SAFE electronics cleaner.
This is a picture of the product I use....
You can buy this product from you local auto parts store.
Make sure which ever brand you use, it must be
PLASTIC SAFE . Also, do not run
voltage through the motor while spraying the cleaner into
it, this stuff is VERY FLAMMABLE and WILL set your
locomotive ON FIRE if you spray it into an energized mechanism.
This stuff will dry quickly so just wait a few moments for
the cleaner to evaporate before testing you model with power.
Good Luck, let us know how it goes.
Proudly keeping Tyco Pluggers out of landfills since 2016
Edited by - Srenchin on August 20 2019 7:22:27 PM
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Posted - August 21 2019 : 7:10:46 PM
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well I've had problems with the Pinion Gear slipping OFF the shaft! 
but I have repaired it with the help of a friend hehe
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AJH4
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Posted - August 29 2019 : 10:28:14 AM
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Thank you all! Here is the update and a question or two.
The video in the above link was very helpful. My GP20 motor was a bit different but close enough. Disassembly went pretty well. The shaft on the core and corresponding gear was soldered on. It took some careful removal with an iron, but worked without damaging the gears (I think). Cleaning everything up. A fair amount of dark gunk on copper wire and some old grease on wheel.
Would it be QD on the copper on the core? Both sides had some dark streaking/dirt. Magnets? Brushes?
I plan on OxGuard on the core (as in the video), 3 in 1 (or what else?) on the shaft on the core, and not sure about oil or grease for gears and wheels.
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