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Posted - May 31 2016 : 11:55:47 PM
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I have a couple of brass steam engines that are funky. Tarnished or something. One is my Alco Models E 44 and the other my Gem Pennsy A5s. How can I safely clean it for painting?
[URL=http://s1228.photobucket.com/user/jdboomer904/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20160531_233801_zpsrtpo2ikc.jpg.html] [/URL]
[URL=http://s1228.photobucket.com/user/jdboomer904/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20160531_162811_zps3e43uquh.jpg.html] [/URL]
[URL=http://s1228.photobucket.com/user/jdboomer904/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20160531_162811_zps3e43uquh.jpg.html] [/URL]
" Heck with counting 'em rivets, TRAINS ARE FOR FUN! Not called the Mad Scientist for nothing either!"
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Posted - May 31 2016 : 11:56:46 PM
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[URL=http://s1228.photobucket.com/user/jdboomer904/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20160531_163506_zps58rlquf7.jpg.html] [/URL]
" Heck with counting 'em rivets, TRAINS ARE FOR FUN! Not called the Mad Scientist for nothing either!"
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Posted - June 01 2016 : 02:00:28 AM
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Ok. The method I use for cleaning brass locomotives is:
1. Get some Super Clean (Purple bottle, Wal-Mart, about $8 a gallon). Disassemble the model and soak it for a good 24 hours. After the soak, use a soft tooth brush to scrub down any spots you see left over. WEAR gloves when handling the parts while in the Super Clean. It WILL soak the oil out of your skin and make your skin dry out and crack (experience speaking here). Rinse well in Hot water (will make the model dry faster).
Super Clean - 1 Gallon bottle $8.00 
2. Check for any hard corrosion (any blue or green spots). If there are any (and I seem to spot them on the drivers and crosshead guides) soak the parts in Tarn-X to try and get it to dissolve it. Again, use a soft brush to help it along. Rinse in Hot water and let dry.
3. If the Tarn-X removes the corrosion, then a quick (5 minutes of less) soak in White Vinegar will do a final clean and get the surface ready for primer/paint. Rinse again in Hot water. Do NOT touch the model once it is rinsed. You will just be putting body oil back on the surface and mess it up.
4. If the Tarn-X did not remove the corrosion, then you will have to use a wire brush to try and remove it. Again, looking at your crosshead guides, you may have to replace those. The drivers look like they may not be as bad.. The diesel looks like it will just need a good cleaning with super Clean and then a quick vinegar rinse.
I use the Super Clean over Brake Fluid because it is environmentally safe and a LOT easier to clean off than the brake fluid is. Then only things I have not had any luck with it removing is baked on enamel and chemically darkened metal. It has not hurt any material that I have cleaned with it (brass, pot metal, plastic, etc). It can be cleaned and reused many times before it becomes useless.
I hope that this helps Justin.
George
Edited by - oldtimer52 on June 01 2016 02:15:59 AM
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Posted - June 01 2016 : 10:53:56 AM
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| Never seen brass to oxidize like that.
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Posted - June 01 2016 : 6:21:00 PM
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When it is left exposed long enough to water, or a very damp area, it will corrode that bad. I've seen it where the corrosion actually develops crystals of copper oxide.
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Posted - August 29 2016 : 5:19:33 PM
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Use Tarnex! Disassemble the models removing any-non-metal parts. Let soak in the solution in a well-ventilated area for about 10 minutes or so, checking on it periodically. It may need more depending on the level of oxidation.
Use warm water and a brass brush to clean it as soon as you remove it from the solution. Then soap and water.
Leaving it in too long will cause the solder to turn black, resulting in the brass turning black.
Here is a before and after example of a tender I cleaned a while back.

Sean
"If everything seems under control, you're not going fast enough!" - Mario Andretti!
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