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 Posted - May 20 2016 : 8:09:35 PM
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Went from this pile of repair jobs, to this:
Refurbished a lot of missing box car doors, brake wheels, some trucks, etc,
thanks to a little help from the Tyco Forum friends. Moose was able to
rewire a three axle switcher to my delight, and that is destined to become
a fantasy PC switcher. FINALLY got a door for my CNJ box car, although I
had to trim it to fit.
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Posted - May 20 2016 : 8:46:53 PM
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Progress!! 
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Posted - May 20 2016 : 9:01:07 PM
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Yay for progress. Although I'm looking at those Testors paints a bit dubiously.. Are they acrylic, or are they enamel?
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Posted - May 20 2016 : 10:13:20 PM
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| Keep at it Chops, you will finish someday.
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Posted - May 20 2016 : 11:48:11 PM
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yeah
I got some of those cars too
4 I wanted but thats ok I'll keep a look out for them 
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Posted - May 21 2016 : 01:28:11 AM
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quote:Yay for progress. Although I'm looking at those Testors paints a bit dubiously.. Are they acrylic, or are they enamel?
Originally posted by ZeldaTheSwordsman - May 20 2016 : 9:01:07 PM
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These bottles are labeled Enamel...
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Posted - May 21 2016 : 02:11:45 AM
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quote: quote:Yay for progress. Although I'm looking at those Testors paints a bit dubiously.. Are they acrylic, or are they enamel?
Originally posted by ZeldaTheSwordsman - May 20 2016 : 9:01:07 PM
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These bottles are labeled Enamel...
Originally posted by walt - May 21 2016 : 01:28:11 AM
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I was afraid of that. I know some of it was my incompetence, but I have not exactly had the best experiences with Testors Enamels. One problem I've had was perpetual tackiness on certain plastics, like ABS (which is the hard plastic that things like Legos and Transformers and a lot of other toys are made of)
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Posted - May 22 2016 : 01:13:59 AM
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Yep, enamel. Pretty lousy, but didn't cost me a buck for
the lot. Use it for small jobs, but the result is pretty
junky. What strips it?
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Posted - May 22 2016 : 9:41:24 PM
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Testor's enamels are generally thicker, slower drying paints in my experience - especially the gloss colors. I use them for specific small details mostly. But even for that they need thinning so that they flow better without gobbing up on the brush.
Chops, laquer thinner will strip enamels in a heartbeat but will destroy plastic as well. Maybe someone else has some knowledge on what to use. I usually just paint over them like the railroads do.
http://tycodepot.com/
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Posted - May 22 2016 : 10:53:12 PM
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quote:
Chops, laquer thinner will strip enamels in a heartbeat but will destroy plastic as well. Maybe someone else has some knowledge on what to use. I usually just paint over them like the railroads do.
Originally posted by JNXT 7707Â -Â May 22 2016Â :Â 9:41:24 PM
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I use simple Dot 3 brake fluid on my car bodies, and I haven't had any trouble with plastic , the paint will come off with some soaking. I did some removal on a SOO line diesel shell last week, only an hour of dabbing on some brake fluid on the lettering, and it softened it up enough to rub off. So far, knock on plastic, I haven't had any of my bodies destroyed by the brake fluid. I soaked a Marx caboose body for weeks, trying to remove some paint, and never hurt the plastic, but it has some tough paint on it!
Jerry
" When life throws you bananas...it's easy to slip up"
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Posted - May 23 2016 : 10:55:05 AM
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I've used the Dot 3 brake fluid with good success in
years past, I'll try that again. The problem is that
I have a hard time finding it.
All the brake fluid
that seems available these days is some kind of
"eco friendly" stuff that has no effect whatsoever.
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Posted - May 23 2016 : 11:00:14 AM
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I don't know if yours will have it, but my local 7-11 carries it. Bought some a few years back to strip a horrendous paintjob I inflicted on my Hornby Duck. It was a godsend.
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Posted - May 23 2016 : 11:01:13 AM
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| The trick with Testors enamels is to prime the plastic with something (Duplicolor works well) that will allow you to use thinned enamel (with lacquer thinner). The thinned enamel dries faster and more completely. Still susceptible to fingerprints, but after a clearcoat, it usually seals it well enough to prevent it. You'd need to use an airbrush to apply the thinned enamel.
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Posted - May 23 2016 : 11:35:13 AM
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quote:I've used the Dot 3 brake fluid with good success in
years past, I'll try that again. The problem is that
I have a hard time finding it.
All the brake fluid
that seems available these days is some kind of
"eco friendly" stuff that has no effect whatsoever.
Originally posted by Chops124Â -Â May 23 2016Â :Â 10:55:05 AM
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Brake Fluid is the way to go. I have stripped plenty of cars/engines with this. Some folks use Easy Off oven cleaner though I can't recommend given I have never tried it.
If you are not having fun, you are not doing it right.
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Posted - May 23 2016 : 11:36:47 AM
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quote:Yep, enamel. Pretty lousy, but didn't cost me a buck for
the lot. Use it for small jobs, but the result is pretty
junky. What strips it?
Originally posted by Chops124Â -Â May 22 2016Â :Â 01:13:59 AM
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Model Master Acryl line is pretty sweet. I use it all the time. Takes a bit of practice but even brushed it goes on a lot better.
If you are not having fun, you are not doing it right.
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Helm
Little Six
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Posted - May 23 2016 : 2:49:24 PM
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I usually have good results with brake fluid. You can buy a cup in a little plastic bottle @the Dollar Store.
However, recently I had trouble stripping a Bachmann F-7, with Conrail blue sloppily painted over a Chesapeake factory paint scheme. (Though maybe the more recent fluid isn't as good like Chops says?)
I bit the bullet and bought Scalecoat model paint stripper. It was like $8 for a pint, but it worked like a charm. It cleaned it up in about a minute and didn't hurt the plastic. It doesn't seem to be reusable - It turned into a sludge with the old paint, but it didn't take much and will do a lot of stripping.
I didn't soak the shell, just painted it on (in a metal pan) so I think It'll do quite a bit of stripping for the price.
While it didn't seem to hurt the plastic, it is nasty and I used it outside with rubber gloves, but then I wouldn't say it's worse than brake fluid.
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Posted - May 24 2016 : 03:17:10 AM
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I use castro super cleaner, the purple stuff, have no problems with it messing up the plastic. Have used oven cleaner in the past, need gloves with that stuff for sure.
Modeling on the cheap
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Posted - May 24 2016 : 03:58:16 AM
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And the Super Clean is reusable. Just use a strainer (I use a plastic 2 cup coffee strainer) and
just put it a bottle until next time. The only paints I couldn't get it to strip were baked enamel and
chemically blackened metal. I have never had it harm any type of material either. It cleans up
with some hot water and a brush to boot!
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Posted - May 24 2016 : 2:25:39 PM
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| Thanks. Oven cleaner???
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Posted - May 24 2016 : 3:26:20 PM
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quote:Thanks. Oven cleaner???
Originally posted by Chops124Â -Â May 24 2016Â :Â 2:25:39 PM
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EZ Off and its ilk.
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Posted - May 24 2016 : 3:58:05 PM
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Oven cleaner would make me very nervous on plastic...
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Posted - May 24 2016 : 4:31:31 PM
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Well believe it or not, oven cleaner turned out to be a disappointment when I tried it. I was a little nervous about it too but it was relatively weak on paint. I've had better results using 91% alcohol.
It did the job, but with a lot of soaking and brushing.
http://tycodepot.com/
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Posted - May 31 2016 : 01:09:54 AM
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Well, the DOT 3 brake fluid from the Dollar Store worked like a charm.
Last time I tried brake fluid it was some environmentally friendly thing
and it didn't touch the paint- but this ate through the cheap Testor's layer
and stripped off the factory paint nicely. I had in mind a fantasy pea green
Penn Central paint over, but now I have some extra New Jersey Central
decals so I believe I will give it a coat of some red Rustoleum I have lying
about.
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Posted - May 31 2016 : 3:43:48 PM
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The CNJ repaint is coming along so nicely, I can't stop myself. I want
to repaint every AHM switcher known to mankind. And every Life Like
caboose.
Edited by - Chops124 on May 31 2016 3:46:22 PM
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Posted - June 01 2016 : 5:42:45 PM
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| Nice job.... I use Scale Coat II (S56) paint remover. It works really well on the Tyco Shells....
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