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 Posted - February 17 2016 : 2:49:58 PM
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This is my "Two Seasons" 3.5 x 3.5 diorama. Cute, but it pretty much stinks
as it is a stupid circle. I'm sure I can do better.
So I stumbled over this track plan, which fits a 3.5 x 3.5.
My questions are this:
1. Are the turn outs too close to the upgrade? My experience is that having a turnout
right at the edge of an elevation leads to derailments.
2. If not, how can I build risers to elevate the upper circle? Styrofoam is too delicate, I think, to secure flex track that I would use to obtain these tight radii. The flex track will be coiled like a spring and pull the Styrofoam risers off its foundations, me thinks.
3. Wooden risers, screwed in place with a thin wooden ramp work? I want to keep the whole structure light so I can take it to model train shows. Plus, now I have to buy even more materials which is, of course, going to drive up the cost, and $ I don't have much of. Three kids, two cats, a dog, one in college (the dog that is).
4. Get rid of the cats?
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Posted - February 17 2016 : 3:41:47 PM
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First thing, Jeff.. KEEP the CATS!! 
I used thin wood to make my bridge stronger. It really doesn't add much weight using 1X8's in my case. I think the small pieces (if I'm correct) that you would use would not make any significant weight difference...
It's funny because my nephews wife always talks about making a 4 seasons layout.. 
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Posted - February 17 2016 : 4:19:32 PM
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You could probably build risers out of styrofoam and then attach a thin sheet of plywood to the top (i.e. use Luan or 1/4" plywood and cut out your track plan then affix that to the styrofoam). That would give you a rigid base for the track without adding too much weight.
That's what I'd do anyway...I'm sure there's an easier method. 
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Posted - February 17 2016 : 9:03:20 PM
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Most of the curves look to be 18" radius. I would use curved sections for most of those and only
use the flex track on the area between the two turnouts. Those curves look to be a lot larger
(meaning probably 32" or larger) and the flex track should not be under that much stress. Just
my opinion. That would save from having to put extra risers/roadbed or support on the layout
and save some cash to boot.
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Posted - February 17 2016 : 11:13:43 PM
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quote:Most of the curves look to be 18" radius. I would use curved sections for most of those and only
use the flex track on the area between the two turnouts. Those curves look to be a lot larger
(meaning probably 32" or larger) and the flex track should not be under that much stress. Just
my opinion. That would save from having to put extra risers/roadbed or support on the layout
and save some cash to boot.
Originally posted by oldtimer52Â -Â February 17 2016Â :Â 9:03:20 PM
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Hmmm, base board will be 42" x 42", 18 inch radius would fit. I got a TON of that stuff lying about. If I did cookie cutter, the base board would still be fastened on three sides of the layout. That really should be enough to tie the frame together. Thanks, Old Timer, that may be the key to this. Yeah, that flex track wouldn't be wound that tight either. A layer of foam on top of the base to carve the river into wouldn't add but a few ounces of weight.
I keep lingering over the Tyco Expander layout, and am thinking about ripping out the 4x6' Tycomania layout and making it a 4x8 for that, so I could recycle the plywood from that for the two seasons layout. Seems obvious now, but it took your observation to jostle my few remaining brain cells into functioning.
Edited by - Chops124 on February 17 2016 11:22:26 PM
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Posted - February 18 2016 : 01:07:56 AM
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| Not sure exactly what I did, but you're welcome.
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Posted - February 18 2016 : 5:10:11 PM
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quote:Not sure exactly what I did, but you're welcome.
Originally posted by oldtimer52Â -Â February 18 2016Â :Â 01:07:56 AM
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You had a better conception than I did of the radii would fit. Thanks.
Edited by - Chops124 on February 18 2016 5:10:35 PM
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Posted - February 18 2016 : 6:36:07 PM
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| If you look closely at the layout diagram the 4 black dots in the inner part of the layout are the centre points for the radii of the curves. By dividing the sides of the squares into 12 parts, you should be able to determine the exact radius for each curve.
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