Looks pretty clean Frank. How does it work? I've been thinking about adding a transformer and wondering if some of them might have more guts and a better rheostat than some of the newer ones?
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I've been thinking about adding a transformer and wondering if some of them might have more guts and a better rheostat than some of the newer ones?
Originally posted by Barry - December 16 2015 : 6:25:22 PM
Many of the new power packs are transistor throttles. Because you have no hills and don't seem to do double headers, they're probably pretty safe on your layout. I have obscenely steep grades and big old open frame motors and have toasted a couple of transistor throttles. I still use one in the yard, where it's nice and flat, but on the mainline, I use the old rheostat throttles from Model Rectifier Corp.
MRC made power packs with a lever on the side and ones with a knob that turns about 300 degrees. The ones with a knob have very substantial rheostats that would be hard to kill. That's what I use.
With high current draw motors like the ones on Mantua steamers or blue box Athearn diesels, rheostat throttles work well. They do a poor job controlling a low-draw motor such as you find in a Rivarossi or IHC engine. This can be remedied by wiring an automotive tail light bulb in parallel to the train. I have one wired in with a switch so I can turn it off for high-draw motors and on for low-draw motors.
Some of the power packs come with a switch labeled "pulse" that helps with slow speed movements such as coupling or spotting a car in a very specific place. I use this feature in switching.
Simple question, complicated answer: it's what I do. Carpe Manana!
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Posted - December 16 2015 : 04:18:36 AM
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