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 Posted - October 07 2014 : 1:10:34 PM
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So my goal is to have the layout operational - that means at least one consist running on track with at least one set of switches, on DCC, by my birthday. We finally have a plan for getting rid of enough stuff from the man cave so that I can get my main room, and if I can clean the garage and get the rest of the drywall & electric up in the garage, I can get the second train room emptied as well, which will give me 22 x 22 for my trains, and bigger if I add a 10x11 and 5x11 room also. In addition, there will be trains running across the top of all of the rooms, and between the two houses.
Since this will be a massive permanent layout, including going through additional rooms all around the ceiling, as well as going between the two houses, I know I need to use 3 foot track sections to minimize wiring difficulties. What track recommendations do you have, and why?
Here are my parameters: I am not a scale modeler. Everything does not HAVE to be exact. There is a great likelihood that nearly all of my rolling stock may end up with non-scale trucks - just so they all match. So 33" vs. 36" wheels won't be a controversy on my layout, I'll probably use RP25 wheels so that I can minimize the likelihood of derailments. It's going to be the same with my track. I don't care about the code 83 vs. code 100 debates for whether or not it's to scale. If 83 or 100 is better and lowers chance for derailment, THAT is what I'm looking for. I LIKE the look of prototypical, but there's enough leeway that things can be hidden.
I'm also looking for suggestions on brands, cost, etc. This is going to mean I'm jumping from DC and tons of brass track, to multiple scale miles of DCC track. I would appreciate any and all suggestions that you've got, especially if you have information on layouts you've used. I'm running anything and everything, including old Tyco and the only thing I DON'T want to do is re-wheel locomotives. Issues with turnouts and switches are a definite consideration - I'll have a lot, probably want to DCC the turnouts. So matching the track means one brand most likely.
I'm leaning towards Atlas Code 100, although I'm not married to it. Comments I've seen seem to indicate that trains will stay re-railed better. I'm not opposed to either one - just looking for your suggestions.
Starting my Tyco and other favorites collection over again after 37 years.
My still in progress list of inventory and wantlist: tyconut.com
Edited by - Tyco Nut on October 07 2014 3:21:27 PM
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Posted - October 07 2014 : 4:18:47 PM
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Sounds like a magnificent plan! Can't wait to to see progress on it!
I vote for Atlas Nickle Silver code 100 as well. Sounds like it would work for you, by what you have written. The only thing I have against code 83 is that it could limit you, if you want to run an old car or locomotive with deep flanges. Code 100 should allow you to run most anything.
I mentioned Atlas since that is what I know - have not tried other brands. I wouldn't be afraid to try others if the price was right and it was Nickle Silver Code 100.
http://tycodepot.com/
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Posted - October 07 2014 : 5:14:17 PM
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I agree with JerryNXT about the Atlas code 100. I'm using it exclusively. But I'm not familiar with different track but have heard praise for years about the A-100.... The only complaints have been about the price...
Edited by - walt on October 07 2014 5:16:02 PM
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Posted - October 07 2014 : 6:08:35 PM
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The kind of track is probably less important than the roadbed under it and the care with which it is laid. The track should sit down solid on the roadbed and there should not be vertical or horizontal kinks at the joints. Abrupt changes in grade can cause accidental uncouplings, places where the wheels slip and places where long wheel base locomotives derail. Dips and humps can result in poor electrical contact between wheel and rail.
It sounds like you will have some very long stretches of track. On long stretches, rail is not a good enough conductor to carry the electricity without a voltage drop, so some fairly heavy copper wire should run under the layout with feeder wires to the rails at intervals.
I'm sure some switches are better than others, but I can't comment on that because I've only ever used Atlas switches or near clones to them. Good luck.
Carpe Manana!
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Posted - October 07 2014 : 6:47:43 PM
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Great points sschaggy - quality trackwork, attention to the roadbed and the electrical feed is extremely important.
One other thing, Tyco Nut... is the use of 'easements' in your layout. I did not know the term before I built my first and second layout. Didn't matter so much on the second, since I was using flex-track and 'kind of by mistake' ended up using a unplanned form of them.
Best advice is to Google and read up on it. There are basic formulas to use, and some rules of thumb - I have one at work that I downloaded for future use.
Basically an easement is the gradual transition from a straight (tangent) to whatever curve you are using (radius). It improves both the look and the operational characteristics.
Anyway, on my first layout - which was mostly sectional track - I had straights going directly to 18R and 22R curves. The effect is sudden on both the look and the train itself, in comparison to using an easement. And in some cases, depending on what you are running, can cause problems - particularly with stuff like long passenger cars.
It's not a "have to" thing, you can certainly ignore it and run trains, but something to consider, especially since you are doing a large layout and will have space to design them in from the start.
http://tycodepot.com/
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Posted - October 08 2014 : 05:13:59 AM
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I get the idea of what you are saying about easements. Essentially you're starting the curve early, with a larger radius, and it gets smaller and smaller until it's the radius of the turn - easing the transition. It sounds like using wyes with a large radius to make the turn smoother, too. That makes sense. I'll keep that in mind. I'm going to try to read some books on designing a layout before I start nailing things in place. I definitely will have roadbed underneath. I want to incorporate both multiple heights - climbing mountains as it were, and a lot of buildings. So many of the big layouts you see in model railroading magazines don't have many buildings, and are only one level.
I'm going to use forced perspective so I'll have N & Z scales in corners, high up, and also half buildings on walls, to add depth.
Starting my Tyco and other favorites collection over again after 37 years.
My still in progress list of inventory and wantlist: tyconut.com
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Posted - October 10 2014 : 1:19:42 PM
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The more I research, the more I think it might be worth the very slight difference in price to upgrade to Peco Code 83 track. It used to be like twice as expensive - now just barely or even close to the same price, and Insulfrogs seem to be DCC compatible and everyone says they are smoother and have much less issues with derailments.
Any other opinions?
Starting my Tyco and other favorites collection over again after 37 years.
My still in progress list of inventory and wantlist: tyconut.com
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Country: USA ~
Posts: 396 ~
Member Since: November 02 2009 ~
Last Visit: March 14 2021
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Posted - October 10 2014 : 3:05:57 PM
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quote:The more I research, the more I think it might be worth the very slight difference in price to upgrade to Peco Code 83 track. It used to be like twice as expensive - now just barely or even close to the same price, and Insulfrogs seem to be DCC compatible and everyone says they are smoother and have much less issues with derailments.
Any other opinions?
Originally posted by Tyco Nut - October 10 2014 : 1:19:42 PM
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As long as you are running RP-25 wheels, sounds great. That was my main concern in going with the Code 100 (other than cost) - I like the option of running older, deeper flanged equipment.
http://tycodepot.com/
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Posted - October 10 2014 : 4:34:07 PM
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I'm of the opinion that I'm going to have to run RP-25 wheelsets on everything. I'm okay with that. Since I'm converting all my locos (and starting in on rolling stock and action cars too!) to DCC, then it shouldn't be very difficult to re-wheel when necessary. I'm okay with good upgrades across my line.
Starting my Tyco and other favorites collection over again after 37 years.
My still in progress list of inventory and wantlist: tyconut.com
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Country: USA ~
Posts: 396 ~
Member Since: November 02 2009 ~
Last Visit: March 14 2021
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