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I'm using an MRC Prodigy Advanced with the wireless conversion. I also bought the USB control they sell. It makes a computer the throttle. I like the MRC system, it's easy to use, I have all of my track switches controlled by stationary decoders too. That saved a lot of wiring. I have tried the USB and my laptop and like the operation but have only used it once or twice, to much traveling for work to give it a full workout. Just my two cents on the subject, hope it helped. Tom Originally posted by eaglerock109 - May 18 2014 :  11:46:07 PM

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They all work with each other. Get a system that suits your planned needs and works how you want. Originally posted by lvrr325 - May 19 2014 :  06:51:20 AM

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The two best are Digitrax and NCI. Bachmann has a system, but it's a bit down the food chain. The controller is nice, though! The older one, I mean. Basically, there is a throttle ( infra-red wireless or cable ), a control module, a track interface module, and a power supply ( for Digitrax, never used Lenz or NCI systems ). Lionel has it's own version for AC use, too, as does MTH. Anyway, I got a basic Digitrax system, which cost about $550, which included a DT-402R dual engine throttle and necessary components to run it. I think the Zephyr is a bit less expensive. Of course, then there are the Decoders for the engines, which cost anywhere from $25 for the basic ones, up to several hundred which has sound and other capabilities. So the costs can rise quickly if you want to radio control many engines, but if you just start out with a few, it's not too bad. If you're trying to convert old vintage engines, it can be dicey, some are not possible. That's something else you need to take into account, if you are dead set on only running what you have, some may not be able to take a Decoder due to engine/chassis design. If the motor can't be isolated from the wheel pick-ups, it won't be possible to convert it. So you have to decide if you're willing to buy more engines to run, if some ( or many ) of your vintage ones can't be converted. Tyco's are extremely difficult, but not totally impossible. It all depends on the motor/chassis design. Athearns are the easiest to convert, I think. Anyway, it's a leap, but a good one if you want realistic sound, multiple engine operating, and other more proto-typical operating schemes. Good luck! Jerry Originally posted by AMC_Gremlin_GT - May 19 2014 :  7:55:28 PM

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I started with a Zephyr by Digitrax. It is a command station and throttle all in one. Many prefer NCI systems, but the Zephyr was a good starting system for me. It has a provision for jump throttles, that is a way to use old power supplies for 2 extra simple throttles. These Jump throttles will only control direction and speed. It will also work with both cable throttles and radio throttles. The Zephyr is a good starting point and will grow as your needs grow. All the brands have online manuals. Tony's train exchange is a good place to get current prices. If you buy a Zephyr, get a Zephyr+ More Views Here: http://model-railroad-hobbyist.com/node/3059 DCC Primer: http://tonystrains.com/tonystips/dccprimer/index.htm Regards, John *********************** You ask me if I keep a notebook to record my great ideas. I've only ever had one. <> Albert Einstein Originally posted by JRG1951 - May 19 2014 :  7:09:17 PM

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That's right. You wire the track wires into this neat little green snap on piece that you snap into the faceplate where you hook up your throttle. That is it. When u first adopted dcc, I had similar questions and was amazed an how easy the dcc systems are. The NCE is great. I love it. It's very easy to program locos and change cv's. Originally posted by raysouthernpac - May 20 2014 :  12:16:08 PM

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Good time for this thread, as last month I finally upgraded to DCC! I'm starting out using Bachmann's E-Z Command DCC system. Inexpensive and expandable (though I believe at base you can only run up to nine DCC-equipped locos and a single analog/DC loco, but it's good enough for a layout my size), and you also get basic lighting and sound control, and it's easy to program locomotives too. Perfect for either the beginner model railroader, or any newbie to DCC. You would still need a typical "analog" train power pack for controlling switches and such though, like my setup here. (What better way to power my layout than with the two big HO train makers of the 1970s to early 1980s?) Originally posted by wiley209 - May 22 2014 :  12:01:10 AM

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RE: Power supplies for DCC - the normal throttle-type train transformer won't work, as it's too low-amperage to handle the expanded capabilities of the newer DCC engines. WHile the engines actually use LESS energy than the older ones, once you start operating multiple engines at once, they each start drawing that 1+ amp per engine, and the sound decoders use more as well, so it adds up. Most model train power packs are only a couple amps at best. DCC requires at least a 5-amp, and for more power districts, an 8-amp heavy duty , depending on layout size/track length, number of engines going at one time, etc. you can actually use any good heavy duty 14-16 VDC power supply, and wire it up. HERE'S THE CATCH - you DON'T want to draw more than 5 amps through an engine decoder if a short occurs, so if you use a 10-amp power supply, put 5 amp fuses between the supply and the DCC track connection. You can run multiple lines to the tracks, long as each has 5 amp fuse protection. You DON'T want to melt your decoder if a short occurs, and it starts drawing more than 5 amps, ka-POP! Not good. Most DCC systems sell a power supply with their systems, but they just wire into the junction controller, so any power supply will work, if you have a suitable one hanging around. 12V won't cut it, you really need the 14V , but you could use it if you're not going to run high-speed trains. Just starting out, go with the matched power supply with the system you want, unless you're comfortable with electrical items. Jerry Originally posted by AMC_Gremlin_GT - May 26 2014 :  8:30:43 PM

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RE: Power supplies for DCC - the normal throttle-type train transformer won't work, as it's too low-amperage to handle the expanded capabilities of the newer DCC engines. WHile the engines actually use LESS energy than the older ones, once you start operating multiple engines at once, they each start drawing that 1+ amp per engine, and the sound decoders use more as well, so it adds up. Most model train power packs are only a couple amps at best. DCC requires at least a 5-amp, and for more power districts, an 8-amp heavy duty , depending on layout size/track length, number of engines going at one time, etc. you can actually use any good heavy duty 14-16 VDC power supply, and wire it up. HERE'S THE CATCH - you DON'T want to draw more than 5 amps through an engine decoder if a short occurs, so if you use a 10-amp power supply, put 5 amp fuses between the supply and the DCC track connection. You can run multiple lines to the tracks, long as each has 5 amp fuse protection. You DON'T want to melt your decoder if a short occurs, and it starts drawing more than 5 amps, ka-POP! Not good. Most DCC systems sell a power supply with their systems, but they just wire into the junction controller, so any power supply will work, if you have a suitable one hanging around. 12V won't cut it, you really need the 14V , but you could use it if you're not going to run high-speed trains. Just starting out, go with the matched power supply with the system you want, unless you're comfortable with electrical items. Jerry Originally posted by AMC_Gremlin_GT - May 26 2014 :  8:30:43 PM

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Hank Yes you can use your throttle pack for light etc. Just make sure you are using the accessory terminals and NOT the track terminals. I agree with Jerry that you need a 14v power supply, it wires into and powers your COMMAND STATION not you hand held controller. This is powered by your command station. Your hand held throttle is then plugged into your command station by use of telephone cable. Alot of the newer stations have circuit protection built into them to protect the command station. As Jerry pointed out shorts can destroy a decoder in a heart beat and a 5 amp fuse in the is an excellent recommendation. They connect between the command station and the track buss wires. This is especially true if you are breaking your layout into POWER DISTRICTS. Even on a small 4x8 layout this is a good practice, it helps to isolate your search if a short happens. to summarize, you will need to get: 1 A power supply that plugs into the wall (my NCE unit has surge protection buitl in) 2 A command station with the functions you want ( after all it's a min-computer) 3 A hand held throttle you are comfortable with ( some have wheels for speed control others have rotary knobs, test holding different ones for comfort if you can) 4 in line circuit protection ( most all manufactures have them and the cut off track power supply in micro seconds to protect decoders) 5 telephone wire and jacks to plug in you throttle ( especialy if you want walk around control) I hope this helps to clear up your confusion. You can even PM me if you have any specific questions Leo Originally posted by babuff - June 02 2014 :  2:48:11 PM

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Hank, I don't know if this is the same system you are buying. This is my MRC prodigy Advanced. I added the wireless conversion. The first pic is the base unit, next to it on the right is a power transformer, plugs into 110 outlet then to base. This is the rear of the unit. Power in, track and programming track out. This picture shows all 3 items, the wireless is plugged into the base for charging the battery and used as a wired controller. This is a screen shot of my laptop with the MRC software open. This acts as a throttle / walk around. It works with the wireless conversion. I had to buy the USB adapter from MRC to be able to run the system. The USB was around 60 bucks. The software is a free download from MRC. My base is over 10 years old so to use the USB I had to send the base to MRC for an upgrade, added another 60 bucks but it included shipping. Hope this helps, or adds more confusion...................Tom Originally posted by eaglerock109 - June 04 2014 :  10:10:48 PM

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[quote]This looks exactly like what I bought, MRC Prodigy Advance. Hope to hook it to a short track today. Probably can't figure out how to use it today but maybe tomorrow. I take it that I can get some PC program from MRC & run trains with that & use my own throttle to control one? That would be nice, switching cars while another train slowly cruises around the layout. Always dreamed, never thought possible as a kid!!! The pics are great, thank you. I am interested in the wireless conversion you mentioned. Thanks Hank[quote]Hank, Hi Hank, the PC software is a free download from MRC's web site, there are 2 conditions for it's use, first you have to have the wireless set up and the MRC USB wireless transmitter / receiver. Second is the Prodigy base needs to have a certain version of the MRC software on it, I think it is version 3.0. This can be checked using the handheld controller. I forget the key sequence but there are instructions on MRC's web site. I've been partial to MRC due to the fact that the Command Control 2000 was my first DCC system. Check the MRC site, there are a few downloads for programming CV's etc............Tom Oh, you can run multiples with the laptop, same as the hand held controller, also features a nice roster list on a second page. The roster makes calling up loco's a snap. Originally posted by eaglerock109 - June 08 2014 :  10:27:26 PM

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Thanks for the info. I have a couple of questions. I can download the the PC software, no problem. Now ? 1: Where/how do I get the wireless setup & the MRC USB wireless transmitter? Ebay? Hank, I bought my wireless conversion from Trainworld, you can get it from MRC or Ebay etc. I did buy the USB device directly from MRC's website. Question #2:How do I put the MRC software need on the Prodigy base unit? Better ?'s are how did you do it? I had to send my base unit to MRC for the upgraded software, it cost $60.00 which included shipping back to me Finally got the plug for the power to the track. Guy forgot to include it when he sent my equipment. I hope to try it out today. Thanks for your patience & help. It is greatly appreciated. quote: [quote]This looks exactly like what I bought, MRC Prodigy Advance. Hope to hook it to a short track today. Probably can't figure out how to use it today but maybe tomorrow. I take it that I can get some PC program from MRC & run trains with that & use my own throttle to control one? That would be nice, switching cars while another train slowly cruises around the layout. Always dreamed, never thought possible as a kid!!! The pics are great, thank you. I am interested in the wireless conversion you mentioned. Thanks Hank[quote]Hank, Hi Hank, the PC software is a free download from MRC's web site, there are 2 conditions for it's use, first you have to have the wireless set up and the MRC USB wireless transmitter / receiver. Second is the Prodigy base needs to have a certain version of the MRC software on it, I think it is version 3.0. This can be checked using the handheld controller. I forget the key sequence but there are instructions on MRC's web site. I've been partial to MRC due to the fact that the Command Control 2000 was my first DCC system. Check the MRC site, there are a few downloads for programming CV's etc............Tom Oh, you can run multiples with the laptop, same as the hand held controller, also features a nice roster list on a second page. The roster makes calling up loco's a snap. Originally posted by eaglerock109 - June 08 2014 :  10:27:26 PM Originally posted by Hank Hobeau - June 14 2014 :  2:43:59 PM

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Hank see my answers below in red. quote: Thanks for the info. I have a couple of questions. I can download the the PC software, no problem. Now ? 1: Where/how do I get the wireless setup & the MRC USB wireless transmitter? Ebay? Hank, I bought my wireless conversion from Trainworld, you can get it from MRC or Ebay etc. I did buy the USB device directly from MRC's website. Question #2:How do I put the MRC software need on the Prodigy base unit? Better ?'s are how did you do it? I had to send my base unit to MRC for the upgraded software, it cost $60.00 which included shipping back to me Finally got the plug for the power to the track. Guy forgot to include it when he sent my equipment. I hope to try it out today. Thanks for your patience & help. It is greatly appreciated. quote: [quote]This looks exactly like what I bought, MRC Prodigy Advance. Hope to hook it to a short track today. Probably can't figure out how to use it today but maybe tomorrow. I take it that I can get some PC program from MRC & run trains with that & use my own throttle to control one? That would be nice, switching cars while another train slowly cruises around the layout. Always dreamed, never thought possible as a kid!!! The pics are great, thank you. I am interested in the wireless conversion you mentioned. Thanks Hank[quote]Hank, Hi Hank, the PC software is a free download from MRC's web site, there are 2 conditions for it's use, first you have to have the wireless set up and the MRC USB wireless transmitter / receiver. Second is the Prodigy base needs to have a certain version of the MRC software on it, I think it is version 3.0. This can be checked using the handheld controller. I forget the key sequence but there are instructions on MRC's web site. I've been partial to MRC due to the fact that the Command Control 2000 was my first DCC system. Check the MRC site, there are a few downloads for programming CV's etc............Tom Oh, you can run multiples with the laptop, same as the hand held controller, also features a nice roster list on a second page. The roster makes calling up loco's a snap. Originally posted by eaglerock109 - June 08 2014 :  10:27:26 PM Originally posted by Hank Hobeau - June 14 2014 :  2:43:59 PM Originally posted by eaglerock109 - June 15 2014 :  7:30:03 PM