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 Posted - May 17 2013 : 02:00:01 AM
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I want a 2-4-4-2 pretty bad! I was wondering if one could be made from the Mantua 2-6-6-2?
" Heck with counting 'em rivets, TRAINS ARE FOR FUN! Not called the Mad Scientist for nothing either!"
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Posted - May 17 2013 : 09:52:01 AM
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I think it's feasible. It would be easier to do that than take a 2-4-4-2 and try to make a 2-6-6-2.
I personally wouldn't try it unless I had a milling machine in order to make precision cuts, etc.
Unspoken expectations are premeditated failures.
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Posted - May 18 2013 : 12:40:44 AM
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Justin it can be done. BUT I have to say NC is right. it would and does require the use of a milling machine.....I have taken 4-8-8-4's and milled the frames to make them 0-6-6-0, to make them into 2-6-6-4's that required large diameter drivers as the Big Boys had......
SO, with alittle work YES it can be done. I have also made TYCO 0-8-0 into a 0-10-0! But again, as NC said, its easier to shorten then to lengthen!
~John
Many have tried to, and failed, ya just can't repair stupid... 
Do NOT try to Idiot-Proof anything!!!! God, will simply create a better......IDIOT!
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Posted - May 18 2013 : 12:45:21 AM
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Here is the TYCO 0-8-0 built into a 0-10-0....
As you will see, I've done all sorts of things, machining wise to steamers.....Justin, let me know what you might be up for as the milling work you need to do is pretty simple....I'd be able to help you see that made, once I'm able to tighten things after I heal from the surgery!
~John
Many have tried to, and failed, ya just can't repair stupid...
Do NOT try to Idiot-Proof anything!!!! God, will simply create a better......IDIOT!
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Posted - May 18 2013 : 12:48:29 AM
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My other idea is to take 2 Mantua 0-4-0's and make the rear frame rigid and the front pivot. Will this still take 22" curves without alot of fuss? I wanna use the Mantua die-cast tank steamer and heavily modify the domes and other details, chop off the smoke box on the first one and then chop the cab on the second and remove the domes and go from there. I'm concerned to how it'll do being part rigid. I may use another boiler like from the Tyco 2-8-0 or something and make a tender mallet.
" Heck with counting 'em rivets, TRAINS ARE FOR FUN! Not called the Mad Scientist for nothing either!"
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Posted - May 18 2013 : 01:12:32 AM
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Justin,
The 0-4-0 idea will work! HOWEVER when you do it, be sure to allow enough "swing" for the front set of engines to swing on say 18 inch radius to ensure that you'll be OK on 22 inch radius, USE a section of 18 inch radius track when you build it, (I do the same, when I need a certain radius to clear, I use the next SMALLER radius, to ensure trouble free running! See?
With the boiler tho, you might run into issues, you want ot remove the smoke box from the rear one, and the cab from the front one.......metal boiler? OR plastic?
The metal boiler would be nice for weight, but is more difficult to do.....The plastic boiler is easier to do, but will require the addition of a lot of weight to make it pull well.
This is funny as I've got planned to modify a Mantua 2-6-6-2, that I got just before I went in for my surgery, that's going to become a 0-6-6-0, IF I can EVER locate a set of cylinders from the Mantua 2-6-0, OR 4-6-0, as I need the front set of cylinders on this 0-6-6-0 I'm building to have slide valve cylinders unlike the piston valve cylinders Mantua used!
~John
Many have tried to, and failed, ya just can't repair stupid...
Do NOT try to Idiot-Proof anything!!!! God, will simply create a better......IDIOT!
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Posted - May 18 2013 : 01:26:19 AM
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Maybe plastic then. Easier indeed, just not so much with wieghts.
" Heck with counting 'em rivets, TRAINS ARE FOR FUN! Not called the Mad Scientist for nothing either!"
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Posted - May 18 2013 : 02:25:10 AM
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Justin,
Yeah the plastic be a lot easier as you would have to either through bolt the metal frames and hope for the best with bolt length.......OR epoxy them together that hope to be lined up perfectly straight when you join them.....either way is a lot of delicate precision work!
Plastic, glue, glue and more glue, slightly turned left or right? add more glue to loosen, turn to near perfect, re-add more glue allow to dry........Pretty simple! (I've moved glue joints like that that had set for weeks! Added alittle more glue on the inside of the joint, allow to soak a few sections, made my adjustments, held tight in position, and then re-touched with some more added some pressure and went on to the next part of that project.....The metal boilers aren't as forgiving!
BUT, as you can see, their are pro's and cons to both types......It would all boil down to what you are more comfortable working with...
I myself, will try anything once when it comes to custom things, and 9 times out of 10, I work with it, set aside awhile work with it some more in time, (I do that to not get frustrated with the project) and in the end turns out pretty well.....TAKE YOUR TIME tho! More time spent, equals better results in the end!
~John
Many have tried to, and failed, ya just can't repair stupid...
Do NOT try to Idiot-Proof anything!!!! God, will simply create a better......IDIOT!
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