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 Has anyone ever tried the Layout Expander System?
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Chops124
Big Boy





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 Posted - April 04 2016 :  3:07:14 PM Link directly to this reply  Show Profile  Add Chops124 to Buddylist



My current attempt at this classic.
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wks
Big Boy



parrot2015

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 Posted - September 26 2020 :  6:44:12 PM Link directly to this reply  Show Profile  Add wks to Buddylist

Update to this thread with the Holy Grail of photos.



Someone with a new pad can take notes.

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microbusss
Big Boy





tiger

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 Posted - September 26 2020 :  11:59:28 PM Link directly to this reply  Show Profile  Add microbusss to Buddylist
it does help when you have THE book itself!

tho I wouldn't build that 3rd loop as it just doesn't look right
I forgot I posted the pic already on the previous page

Edited by - microbusss on September 27 2020 12:01:08 AM
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wks
Big Boy



parrot2015

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 Posted - September 27 2020 :  10:06:37 AM Link directly to this reply  Show Profile  Add wks to Buddylist

Here you go.





Have fun building this classic to your specifications.

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tater1337
Little Six

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 Posted - October 15 2020 :  11:04:18 PM Link directly to this reply  Show Profile  Add tater1337 to Buddylist
quote:
That could be possible.
In fact, my newest layout is partly based off the original Layout Expander System track plan, made out of mostly Code-100 Atlas nickel-silver sectional track. However, it has an additional extension on the bottom, and it uses DCC instead of the blocking control.

However, I DID install an Atlas Connector switch so I can turn off and on the power to one of the sidings, for parking a non-DCC locomotive there.

It turns out, two versions of the black-cover Layout Expander System manual exist. There is one from 1977 that is 32 pages long, like the original 1975 edition, and has most of the same material, but no mention of the Layout Expander System mat (instead showing how you would landscape your layout by showing a diagram on what goes where), and it also has a two-page spread showing TYCO's available building kits and accessories of the time. It also does not have the glossary like the 1975 edition did.
The second version I believe is actually from 1978 or 1979, despite still carrying a 1977 copyright notice, is only 28 pages long, and removes quite a bit of content from the last one (it does not show what kind of locomotives, building kits or accessories are available to use, and it also omits two of the "other suggested track layouts," and in the maintenance section, it mentions Tru-Steel track, suggesting that it's from at least 1978 (when that sort of track came out.)
I might scan the initial 1977 edition and upload it to HOSeeker.net.

I will admit, the 1975 layout picture does look nice...

But it does seem a bit sparse in accessories and buildings. If I were building that layout in the 1970s, I would probably also add some Plasticville and Life-Like building kits, maybe some of Bachmann's signs and signals available at the time, as well as some trees, lychen and such. I probably would not use the Layout Expander System mat either; I would instead probably do my own landscaping, like what many customers that built this layout probably opted for. The end result would have then looked quite a bit like my current layout but in 4x8 and with brass track.

Originally posted by wiley209 - June 08 2014 :  11:36:36 PM




Bump for this thread

thank you Wiley209 for scanning this
just getting back into the hobby and I've been reading all your scans in earnest
I am slowly collecting track for this layout setup
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Chops124
Big Boy





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 Posted - October 17 2020 :  04:10:34 AM Link directly to this reply  Show Profile  Add Chops124 to Buddylist
Yes, and I didn’t like it. The Tyco equipment really struggled staying on track, hence the rerailers every two feet, or so.
It has been said that the 4x8 really requires 8 x 12 feet of floor space. Something worthy of consideration.

After a few months I converted it to a twice around. Then added a 4x4 L onto it. Then changed it up to a oval-on-oval which has been the most satisfying to operate. Accommodates all wheelbases and brands without difficulty.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=QA3w_cwPNXI&t=5s

The Tyco uncoupling ramp was not any good either:

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=zDOs3WehlPU



Edited by - Chops124 on October 17 2020 04:21:41 AM
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tater1337
Little Six

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 Posted - October 17 2020 :  09:28:34 AM Link directly to this reply  Show Profile  Add tater1337 to Buddylist
quote:
Yes, and I didn’t like it. The Tyco equipment really struggled staying on track, hence the rerailers every two feet, or so.

yep, I got two reasons(maybe three) why I want to try this

this was a showcase layout that TYCO was using to sell the most of their high end product, or the most product(shrugs). this signifies the "dream set" that most modelers first aspired to, until they decided on a layout more to their tastes

I want to set this up and see it fail, then futz with it and get it to fail MORE, then finally futz with it more and get it to work. I don't think TYCO meant to make a setup that was broken to begin with, we just need to see WHY it does what it does. it's a learning process

and my desire here is the mechanical operations. I know others have desire for all the billboard boxcars and three different shades of grass in their layouts, but to me the real fun is 4 powerpacks, rows of turnout switches, block controls, and remote loaders and unloaders. maybe a whistle too

also, I am a maker-type person, and have a number of 3d printers along with access to everything up to brass casting and full size CNC milling machines(google appleton makerspace), so if I can visualize it, I can make, in about 4 different ways
quote:

It has been said that the 4x8 really requires 8 x 12 feet of floor space. Something worthy of consideration.

yes I can see that, but there are very few apartment-friendly layouts in HO scale. I could do layouts in N but HO scale is what I remember from childhood

I don't need a couch in my living room, right?

I might be able to free up about 5x9 inthe spare bedroom. I have 4x4 for now allocated with room to navigate 2 side. I know this is gonna be a headache, but you cant find solution until you try and fail and learn
quote:

After a few months I converted it to a twice around. Then added a 4x4 L onto it. Then changed it up to a oval-on-oval which has been the most satisfying to operate. Accommodates all wheelbases and brands without difficulty.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=QA3w_cwPNXI&t=5s

I like the open boxcars with product showing, I might have to design loaders/unloaders for that, maybe low PSI vaccuum lines

I am thinking that I might replace the center with a yard or roundhouse so I have a place for extra cars to somewhat display and store, we'll see. I wanna keep the operations similar and do away with static scenery.

quote:


The Tyco uncoupling ramp was not any good either:

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=zDOs3WehlPU
Originally posted by Chops124 - October 17 2020 :  04:10:34 AM



which makes me wanna get it all the more. it still looks like magic, even when displayed and explained in detail. I am not happy about the lack of precision placement, and if I get the yard setup I'll need that and a switcher to do things like the towers of babel and other shunting puzzles
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scsshaggy
Big Boy


scsshaggy

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 Posted - October 17 2020 :  09:58:02 AM Link directly to this reply  Show Profile  Add scsshaggy to Buddylist
Tater, it sounds like you're a tinkerer and as such, you should be able to solve the kinds of problems Chops encountered with the Layout Expander System. A few added pickups on the engines help with the stalling on insulated switch frogs. The Atlas snap switch can be tuned to get rid of most derailments.

If I have a lot of equipment picking the frog on a switch, I'll shim the guard rails so they actually pull the wheelset over. As built, the flangeways are too wide to accommodate pizza cutter flanges on long rigid wheel bases. It's fiddly, but you can narrow them down enough to work by gluing a strip of plastic on the inboard side of the guard rail and filing it to the desired thickness with a nail file. Test it with your biggest flanges and file until it doesn't jam.

There's one problem it took me a while to catch on to. Sometimes the points will sit just a hair lower than the stock rails so that the outside edge of a wheel catches the inside edge of the stock rail forcing a derailment as the train moves over the switch in a trailing point direction. A little shim under the points will fix that.

If flanges are picking the end of the points, sharpening the points with a file should fix that.

Most of my equipment has body mounted knuckle couplers which eliminates a couple of sources of problems. When you push cars with truck mounted couplers, it tends to twist the truck so the flanges are hunting for a place to derail. X2f couplers push against each other from the side so they tend to push the cars to one side, also making the flanges hunt for a place to derail. Collecting old Tyco and other trainset equipment means using a lot of truck mounted X2f couplers, if you want to keep things original. The tuning I've described will help in any case, but I don't know if it's enough for truck mounted X2f couplers, since I haven't run them on my layout.

Carpe Manana!
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