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 Posted - January 06 2013 : 3:39:05 PM
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I have one of those old Dockside steamers that I negligently got for $3.00 at a club flea market last September. It's the Life-Like/made in China version. I can easily repair/ rebuild
a missing rear step piece and repacing the horn-hook couplers looks easy aslo.
This one needs a major cleanup and it wiggles as it barely runs, because the piston plastic piece and the front bumper pieces are very loose.
So, is the motor too powerful? Should I replace it with one of the smaller can motors I have?
Is there any rewiring that should be done? I have not found much in the way of guidance online- just short comments about it.
Any feedback will be greatly appreciated.
Siouxlake/Ron
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Posted - January 06 2013 : 3:47:02 PM
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L-L's tank engines are mediorce steamers. Gears usually make that classic and annoying chunking sound. There's no fix for it from what I've heard. I got the first issue with a open frame motor. It does OK for a Pittman knock-off. 2 wires go from the pick up shoes to the motor with 2 other wires going to the headlight. I have no idea if there is a fix for the gear noisiness. I say give the engine TLC. Not a bad steamer for the price!
" Heck with counting 'em rivets, TRAINS ARE FOR FUN! Not called the Mad Scientist for nothing either!"
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Posted - January 06 2013 : 3:55:16 PM
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There is a fix! My friend did it and converted one to dcc and sound!!
This is what my friend did! We checked the side rods under power and couldn't locate the source of the noise. While disassembled with the wheels separate from the loco we noticed that the drivers on one side were not in the same location as compared with the counterweight in the horizontal position. We held the axle with needle nose pliers and grasped the wheel and moved it to reposition it on the axle.
You can see his video here: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kXpqbUXwlho
Then the DCC sound installation here: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oRV-D_bj3zc
I buy, repair, and collect
http://scvr.weebly.com/
http://seyboldlocomotiveworks.weebly.com/
http://www.youtube.com/user/TheDeputation?feature=watch
Hyde.
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Posted - January 06 2013 : 4:02:52 PM
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WOW! Never woulda known that 0-4-0 was by Life Like!
" Heck with counting 'em rivets, TRAINS ARE FOR FUN! Not called the Mad Scientist for nothing either!"
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Posted - January 06 2013 : 4:29:33 PM
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Okay- the You Tube videos set the bar a bit higher than my level.
I can do the hatch, LED both front and rear lights, but I will leave the DCC and sound for later. I just want the little bugger to run forwards and back, not sashay down the tracks like a BBW chick in the aisles at WalMart!
How about the front end loosey-goosey problems?
LOL
Siouxlake/Ron
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Posted - January 06 2013 : 4:53:35 PM
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From what I've heard, the main gear on those is very susceptible to cracking. I have one with that very problem that thumps/wiggles down the track. Hopefully yours has a good gear. 
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Posted - January 06 2013 : 5:09:50 PM
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Well this is an open can of worms! Those can be rebuilt, BUT you need a good axle gear, (NOT the factory one!) and a mating worm gear, and a good can motor and then rebuilt the whole works from the ground up in this case the running gear. Alittle money in volved but makes them run really nice....... pulling power is the issue as they aren't that big, and need weight to make them pull better.
Personally, the old IHC model that was nicely detailed is a better choice for a Docksider, (I got a few of the higher end Rivarossi's that run and look good.....) STUFFED full of real lead to add as much weight as I could fit!
~John
Many have tried to, and failed, ya just can't repair stupid... 
Do NOT try to Idiot-Proof anything!!!! God, will simply create a better......IDIOT!
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Posted - January 06 2013 : 5:51:21 PM
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I found a thread from DaCheez in April 2012 that "litigated" this whole thing on the Dockside- he being the one with a "twin" of mine- right down to the dust on top of the boiler!
There are no gear cracking problems, but each of the axles move 1/8th inch laterally, in addition to the front end and cylinder looseness. I can't believe they were built so poorly, but then, this is a made in China item for the "toy train" market, rather than serious modelers.
Using the original motor- or one of my smaller ones (perhaps a lower rpm top threshold is better, based on my Plymouth MDT experience), I can see stabilizing the loose parts, but maybe using a C-washer on each wheel to take up the slop might help.
Any thoughts?????
Ron
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Posted - January 07 2013 : 01:44:59 AM
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Ron,
I don't think it's lateral driver play that's the issue. I had an earlier model with an open frame motor, and the axle gear was fine, but it waddled like a drunken duck. The problem was slop in the axle slots, which were molded generously wide.
Even without gear or quartering problems, if the axle slots are oversized the side rod action will slam the drivers back and forth giving you the motion you describe. Drivers that aren't perfectly true will add to it. I also remember that the frame was far from rigid. I could have tried shimming it, but given the lack of valve gear and one piece main rod & crosshead I pawned it at the LHS years ago.
The Tyco Depot
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Posted - January 07 2013 : 02:11:15 AM
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quote:Ron,
I don't think it's lateral driver play that's the issue. I had an earlier model with an open frame motor, and the axle gear was fine, but it waddled like a drunken duck.
Originally posted by NickelPlate759Â -Â January 07 2013Â :Â 01:44:59 AM
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Nelson you crack me up! "like a drunken duck" too funny!!
I buy, repair, and collect
http://scvr.weebly.com/
http://seyboldlocomotiveworks.weebly.com/
http://www.youtube.com/user/TheDeputation?feature=watch
Hyde.
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Posted - January 07 2013 : 9:55:47 PM
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It's Ken's favorite pub. http://www.tripadvisor.com/Hotel_Review-g186319-d191551
The Tyco Depot
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Posted - January 08 2013 : 12:24:14 AM
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Now that's funny!
I buy, repair, and collect
http://scvr.weebly.com/
http://seyboldlocomotiveworks.weebly.com/
http://www.youtube.com/user/TheDeputation?feature=watch
Hyde.
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