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Pierce
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 Posted - November 22 2011 : 2:35:18 PM
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Well this is my latest project, I think I might have posted a picture of the shell once before. Now I have started on the chassis, just got to move the motor and she is done with assembly. Might add dirrectional lighting, not sure yet...
Adam
Edited by - Pierce on November 27 2011 3:10:13 PM
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Posted - November 22 2011 : 4:46:23 PM
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looks like it was over thought. drive shafts going everywhere.
jerry
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Posted - November 22 2011 : 7:45:21 PM
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Hobbytown and other manufacturers built diesels with tank drives like that, Jerry, before there were double shafted can motors. A Hobbytown SD40T2... I like it. Nice machining work. 
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Pierce
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Posted - November 22 2011 : 10:38:07 PM
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Thanks NickelPlate759 It took me about 3 hours of milling to get the frame to fit the shell. i just got the mill and this was my first real project with it. A huge learning curve... I really need to get some servo motors pain in the a** trying to hand turn it. As for Hobbytown drives they are bullet proof if built correctly. The best way I found is to break them in one section at a time so any problems can be fixed on the spot. Start with the flywheel then gear tower, then front truck, then rear truck. Can pull anything with them also now I just need a layout big enough for a SD-40-2T.
Adam
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Posted - November 22 2011 : 11:44:13 PM
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Adam,
what kind of mill?
I think I'm gonna ssell my showroom Unimat DB200 and buy a Sherline lather. I have a beater Unimat for a mill, but I need more "x" travel to machine a chassis from a solid piece.
-Gareth
"A is A"
-Aristotle
Law of Identification
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Pierce
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Posted - November 23 2011 : 2:42:02 PM
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Gareth,
I got a Taig 2019 not top of the line, I did alot of research and this was the best deal for the money. I got the 1/4 HP motor for it also.
Adam
Edited by - Pierce on November 23 2011 2:43:58 PM
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Posted - November 23 2011 : 3:30:04 PM
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Adam, does that HT gear train make much noise?
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Pierce
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Posted - November 23 2011 : 3:58:35 PM
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NickelPlate759,
It has a decent growl I would say it is loud, that being said it has all brass gears the main cause of the noise. Hobbytown is a nitch and you either like them or hate them probably why they are sort of out of production I say that because the owner is retired but still sells some parts.
Adam
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Posted - November 23 2011 : 5:14:18 PM
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A plastic shell probably amplifies it more than a diecast one. Putting some weight inside the shell might deaden it a little more.
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Posted - November 23 2011 : 6:23:11 PM
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Adam;
What the "X" travel on the mill table?
NWSL has a deal on this baby.....
http://www.micromark.com/MicroLux-7x16-Mini-Lathe,9615.html
I would sell my "Showroom" Unimat DB200 to help pay for this.....
I like the Sherline but it has a lead screw wheel which can prove tediously slow in moving the "saddle" and therefore the cross-slide.... further the ML unit has a compound rest as part of the base config. Thats important to me. The ML has true inch feed threads compared to more typical 1mm ones which require conversion if you are used to working in "thou".
i can see why you like the "19" the difference in the tables "X" travel is significant. 3" more than the Sherline...
-Gareth
"A is A"
-Aristotle
Law of Identification
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Pierce
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Posted - November 23 2011 : 8:45:23 PM
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Gareth,
It looks like you already looked it up but it is 12 inches.
Adam
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Posted - November 23 2011 : 9:31:07 PM
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Adam:
turns out there's a Taig distributor about 1 1/2 hours drive away.
Does the head tilt/pivot on your Mill?
For me the math is simple, the Taig has actually 4 inches more lateral (X) travel than the Sherline. An HO C-630 scales out at abouut 9". Easy decision.
The Lathe will be harder. I'd like it to have a built in thread cutting function but the truth is you normally would only cut a thread on a lathe if it's an irregular/unusual thread.... you can get a basic Taig Lathe here for about $285!
-Gareth
"A is A"
-Aristotle
Law of Identification
Edited by - romcat on November 24 2011 9:46:45 PM
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Pierce
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Posted - November 24 2011 : 9:43:16 PM
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Yes the head tilts, but no way of knowing the angle... not sure why they did not do this? I have yet to need to tilt it I guess I will cross that bridge when I get there.
Adam
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Posted - November 24 2011 : 9:48:32 PM
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Adam,
Why did you choose the Taig over the Sherline?
-Gareth
"A is A"
-Aristotle
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Pierce
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Posted - November 24 2011 : 10:12:13 PM
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Gareth,
Price was huge I paid $550 to the door for mine(they were running a sale), also the fact that it was made in the USA. I like the Sherline but they cost a bit more. Also I like collets over a chuck thats a personal prefference I just think you get a better clamp on the tool. Some might find it a pain to change but it does not bother me. If you can afford to go CNC I would spend the money and get it I can not wait till I can afford to get the stuff to do it. It will be so cool drawing some parts in CAD(my brother went to school for it) and actually making them, plus maybe making some molds etc. Maybe in a year or two...
Adam
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Posted - November 25 2011 : 06:34:28 AM
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Way cool Adam. I admire you for taking this on. The Hobbytown drive is quite a piece of engineering.
Alco Fan
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Pierce
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Posted - November 27 2011 : 3:02:29 PM
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Updates....
Adam
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Posted - November 27 2011 : 6:30:35 PM
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Adam, I agree with you that collets are more accurate for end mills, even if they're a pain to change. The loco looks really good now.
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Pierce
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Posted - November 27 2011 : 6:37:17 PM
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NickelPlate759,
It runs really well now I ran it for 3 hours continious in both directions then boiled all the parts to remove the oil and dirt, and painted and reassembled. what a difference it makes to paint when you boil off all the oils and dirt.
Adam
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Posted - November 27 2011 : 7:11:05 PM
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Nelson;
Pain, why? Rod removal from the top you mean?
-Gareth
"A is A"
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Pierce
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Posted - November 27 2011 : 7:30:43 PM
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Gareth,
I believe we are both reffering to the fact that you need 2 wrenches to change a collet verses a chuck with a key.
Adam
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Posted - November 27 2011 : 7:34:59 PM
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On the Brunswick I worked on a "Knee & Column" model you have to get a wrench over the bar that slides down through the drive spline and a thread on it engages the top of the collet. So my question is, what two wrenches....
Btw, I think I've settled on the same Mill. I like the Taig lathe but apparently you can't cut a thread on it!!! O_o
-Gareth
"A is A"
-Aristotle
Law of Identification
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Pierce
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Posted - November 27 2011 : 7:51:42 PM
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Gareth,
To change out the collets when you want to use different diameter bits/mills. for mine it is 1 inch and a 1 1/16 wrenches.
Adam
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Posted - November 27 2011 : 7:55:18 PM
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how old is that engine? it's looking good by the way
jerry
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Posted - November 27 2011 : 8:10:37 PM
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Thats on the Taig, right Adam?
The Mill I worked on is about 6' high...
Follow the vertical line of the collet straight up, see that rod coming out the top? That's how we removed the collet. loosen that then while holding the collet, unthread the rod from the collet top in the sleeve....
-Gareth
"A is A"
-Aristotle
Law of Identification
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Pierce
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Posted - November 27 2011 : 8:12:14 PM
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Smokie,
The shell is a T & D Model from around 1980 and the Hobbytown drive is also from around 1980(Instruction sheet got a revision date of 1979). I got them off eBay a few years ago, the shell was a steal I got 5 in a lot for 5 10 bucks to the door.
Adam
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Posted - November 27 2011 : 9:47:12 PM
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Adam:
two things, can you get me a pic will you of the collet mounting & wrenches on the Taig and secondly do you have a lathe in your shop?
-Gareth
"A is A"
-Aristotle
Law of Identification
Edited by - romcat on November 27 2011 10:02:39 PM
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Posted - November 27 2011 : 9:54:17 PM
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Adam, thanks for the tip about boiling metal parts before painting. I hadn't thought of that.
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Pierce
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Posted - November 28 2011 : 4:58:34 PM
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Gareth here are some pictures let me know if this helps. I do not have a lathe, still undecided on if I really need one or not.
NickelPlate759 I got that tip from a trapper he boils his traps to remove any oils or human odors etc then he coats them with wax to keep them from rusting.
Adam
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Posted - November 28 2011 : 7:01:23 PM
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Hey Adam,
Ok, got it. Not the best design.... but I'm not sure how much better the top based rod sys is either.....
-Gareth
"A is A"
-Aristotle
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Pierce
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Posted - December 04 2011 : 2:37:39 PM
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Just got a little more done maybe soon ready to leave the paint shop...
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