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 To cork or not to cork
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Author Previous Topic: Inclines and Gradients Topic Next Topic: For fans of small Layouts and BN....  

RETRO
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Steam

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 Posted - August 03 2011 :  03:01:18 AM Link directly to this topic  Show Profile  Add RETRO to Buddylist
Just building a new lay out and I have noticed quite a lot of lay out builders on this site do not use cork ,
I have read that using any type of under lay has no benifit once you nail it down to your base board, because the sound is transmitted straight through the nails and creating that rumble
I'm thinking I'll Just lay track on the base board and lay ballast
WHAT ARE YOUR THOUGHTS ?

RETRO.

BEEN THERE, DONE THAT, WHATS NEXT !
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Alco Fan
Big Boy


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 Posted - August 03 2011 :  06:21:03 AM Link directly to this reply  Show Profile  Add Alco Fan to Buddylist
I'd use cork.
I have used roadbed cork and it muffled the sound. I threw my current layout together and didn't use cork but wish I had and will when I get a better layout started.
I'm not sure how the track with plastic roadbed works but it looks good. Another reason for using cork, it looks good.

Alco Fan
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mytyco
Mikado


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 Posted - August 03 2011 :  09:44:23 AM Link directly to this reply  Show Profile  Add mytyco to Buddylist
Hi Retro,

Instead of using nails, why not use glue. It has worked for me and the track has no direct contact with the base board. I think the cork really adds a great deal to the look of a layout.

Good luck
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Alco Fan
Big Boy


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 Posted - August 03 2011 :  11:00:23 AM Link directly to this reply  Show Profile  Add Alco Fan to Buddylist
BTW: I glue the roadbed down but use small spikes the secure the track to the bed.
Alco Fan
Edited by - Alco Fan on August 08 2011 4:00:03 PM
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tkruger
Big Six

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 Posted - August 03 2011 :  7:46:42 PM Link directly to this reply  Show Profile  Add tkruger to Buddylist
I have found that the cork does help to decrease the sound of larger trains. With my small trains I did not notice the difference. I have not ballasted mine yet but my LHS suggested that by using the cork I may use less ballast as the track already has the proper form under it. I will not need to build anything up to get the proper look. Since I plan to ballast it one day I just used a staple gun to hold it down. I found that with nails I would need one on the right and the left. Using the stables they can span the middle seam.
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RETRO
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Steam

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 Posted - August 08 2011 :  02:30:34 AM Link directly to this reply  Show Profile  Add RETRO to Buddylist
I Would assume if you coated both the base board & the under side of the cork with contact and give it a slight stretch as you lay it down ,then add weight the end result would be very flat and even with no ups & downs,and finally using a glue gun with small dabs of glue lay the track
To me that seems the best way to go
or is there a better method ?

RETRO.

BEEN THERE, DONE THAT, WHATS NEXT !
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RETRO
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Steam

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 Posted - August 11 2011 :  01:45:29 AM Link directly to this reply  Show Profile  Add RETRO to Buddylist
What about just laying track and ballast ?
would you get much noise back ?
COME ON GUYS IS THIS SECRET ? YOU'VE ALL GOT DIFFERENT METHODS
TIME TOO TELL which is best

RETRO.

BEEN THERE, DONE THAT, WHATS NEXT !
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AMC_Gremlin_GT
Big Boy



GremlinBL2

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 Posted - August 11 2011 :  8:55:44 PM Link directly to this reply  Show Profile  Send AMC_Gremlin_GT an AOL message  Send AMC_Gremlin_GT a Yahoo! Message  Add AMC_Gremlin_GT to Buddylist
quote:
What about just laying track and ballast ?
would you get much noise back ?

TIME TOO TELL which is best

Originally posted by RETRO - August 11 2011 :  01:45:29 AM



Well, Retro, what exactly are you trying to do on your layout; run trains only, or scale realism? Most tracks have a fairly substantial sub-base of ballast ( in the real world ) for proper water drainage. And areas have ditches on either side, too. If you lay the track flush on the wood and ballast over, how do you create a ditch? You'd have to rout out the wood. So that's one reason to elevate the track, is proper realistic drainage. You can add to the wood base, but it's harder to subtract wood easily. And with the track directly on the wood, it WILL echo. You've got hard plastic on hard wood, you will not get a realistic sound coming from your train(s). Once the track gets a little clearance off the wood, it's gonna vibrate and echo and you'll WISH you'd have put cork under it. No secret to that aspect. I've got a test loop, track on plywood, and you can hear the echo, not just the train running around the track,but the sound of the wood vibrating from the train running over it.
Some guys use pink foam underlayment on the plywood and attach the track to that ( with glue ). Easier to make ditches in foam than plywood, too.
Far as modular railroading goes, my club members usually put down cork on plywood, glue the track to the cork, and ballast over that, maybe 1 or 2 nails only. Not much sound out of that.
Bottom line, do what you want( or your budget allows), if your goal is a cheap layout, you can eschew the cork and just nail/glue down the track to the plywood, but if you are going for any kind of realism you'll realize what a mistake that is later on. There are many different ways to do it, some guys in my club use Homasote ( a cardboard-like drywall that is easy to work with, cut, and mount on a frame, but sometimes it's hard to find, not all stores carry it either). So good luck with your decision, just do some research to see what will work best for you ( and your budget ).

Jerry

" When life throws you bananas...it's easy to slip up"
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x2f
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 Posted - August 20 2011 :  8:06:44 PM Link directly to this reply  Show Profile  Add x2f to Buddylist
I would recommend cork. When I started my current layout I first tacked the track down to the surface of the plywood. It was loud. Especially with older heavy engines. I pulled up the track and put down cork. I fastened the cork with white glue and held it in place with nails every few inches. When the glue dried I pulled out the nails. Then I sanded the cork roadbed smooth and painted it with grey latex paint (I don't plan on ballasting). When that was dry I relaid the track. I used a combination of track nails and white glue to secure it. This works for me and it is much quiter.
X2F
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Ken
Hudson

old feller

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 Posted - August 20 2011 :  9:08:03 PM Link directly to this reply  Show Profile  Add Ken to Buddylist
X2F-could you post a picture of your track with the cork painted. I am in the process of laying my new track on the new layout. Your idea sounds good to me .
Thanks.
Ken

FIDDLEHEAD RAILWAY CO.
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AMC_Gremlin_GT
Big Boy



GremlinBL2

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 Posted - August 20 2011 :  9:20:06 PM Link directly to this reply  Show Profile  Send AMC_Gremlin_GT an AOL message  Send AMC_Gremlin_GT a Yahoo! Message  Add AMC_Gremlin_GT to Buddylist
quote:
I fastened the cork with white glue and... Then I sanded the cork roadbed smooth and painted it with grey latex paint (I don't plan on ballasting).

Originally posted by x2f - August 20 2011 :  8:06:44 PM



This might be a good variation to use this stone textured paint I am using on my plastic EZ track roadbed, if you're just going to paint anyway, why not use a realistic looking paint/ballast ? Might want to try it, Ken, see if it looks better than just plain gray, I think so, after doing my molding and plastic roadbed HO track with this textured stone paint.

Jerry

" When life throws you bananas...it's easy to slip up"
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RETRO
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Steam

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 Posted - August 20 2011 :  9:58:23 PM Link directly to this reply  Show Profile  Add RETRO to Buddylist
Thats what I'm talking bout!
If you lay cork and then nail it down you get the noise back through the nails !
I'm going to fork (scrape) the edges of my cork ,paint it dark grey and them dry brush ,dab on a speckled irregular lighter grey ( simulated gravel )
then I'm going to PVC (white glue) my cork down and then spot glue the track with hot glue,
If you need to lift up the track you can (and I have ) scrape the hot glue off with a razor knife

RETRO.

BEEN THERE, DONE THAT, WHATS NEXT !
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derfberger
Hudson

toby & Dindi

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 Posted - August 24 2011 :  8:22:42 PM Link directly to this reply  Show Profile  Add derfberger to Buddylist
cork on one inch foam board.

i use dress makers pins to hold the track while i drizzle diluted Elmers and put on the ballest.

once Elmer cures it's not going any where. The one inch. foam gives me plenty of lee way to

create ditches, creeks, lakes and rolling countryside. Love it because if i get too carried away i glue on a new piece and start over

cork on top of Homisitote also works as a good sound dampener
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derfberger
Hudson

toby & Dindi

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 Posted - August 24 2011 :  8:24:32 PM Link directly to this reply  Show Profile  Add derfberger to Buddylist
sorry forgot to mention glue cork to foam board with foam adhesive before laying track
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ChrisWA
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 Posted - September 27 2011 :  6:54:27 PM Link directly to this reply  Show Profile  Add ChrisWA to Buddylist
I completely covered my 4x4 setup with cork. I did this so I could hold the tracks down with thumb tacks until I find a layout I want to make permanent. You just have to make sure you center the tacks right and push them in all the way. But they come out much easier than nails or glue by far and actually hold really well. Plus I like how it looks too. Although it does tend to look like the floor of death valley if you don't cover it, lol.
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CamdenLine
Little Six

Camden Line

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 Posted - September 27 2011 :  7:07:30 PM Link directly to this reply  Show Profile  Add CamdenLine to Buddylist
I'd say yes to cork and yes to ballast. The loose ballast is fun to apply, looks great and is relatively cheap. You can probably get away with two large bags and it might set you back $16.

I don't always go for what is cheapest or quickest. I look at a layout as a fun onging giant model. I don't want to ever finish it. Where's the fun in that? Working on the layout, laying track, glueing ballast, placing bushes, these are the fun things to me.

For some though, running trains is the best part and they just want something quick to run them on. It all depends on what you are after.

~CamdenLine
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