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 Posted - June 16 2022 : 12:57:20 PM
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My experimental layout used to provide ample derailments at switches. I use code 100; mostly Atlas, ROCO, and PECO. I have found frog guard rail flange-way clearance too wide on most brands. I have read of folks adding material to the guard rail to make the flange-way more narrow; but I have not tried that solution.
Track geometry can play a role. There should be no change in grade for a chassis length into or out of a switch and the ties should lay perfectly horizontal. Minimize truck pivoting when wheels pass over the frog to lessen chances of "picking" the frog; if the rails are straight then keep straight of if the rails are curved then keep curving for a "car length".
Most of my rolling stock is 60+- years old. "Tuning" all my axles using a NMRA standards gauge so that the wheel flanges are at the minimum distance has solved most of my problems. Flanges fit easily but snugly into the gauge notches. If there is any wiggle room then I press the wheels together for a precise fit. Steam locomotive drive wheels are a pain to press but I have improved tracking performance on the ones I deemed needing to be "tuned".
I use a drill press, a notched electrical box slug, and a 1/16 inch drill bit.
Narrower - the chuck is open to press on the edge and the axle can protrude
Wider - drill bit installed shank out
Edited by - offtrackthoroughbred on June 16 2022 1:44:57 PM
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Posted - June 16 2022 : 4:20:28 PM
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You are correct about flangeway width being too wide on most switches. In HO the proper width is also the width of a hacksaw blade so they make an easy guage. In the past I've successfully used strip styrene to narrow that flangeway, with some success. This works best on the switches with plastic guard rails. For me this is now a moot point as I handlay my own track, and can build it to the proper specifications to begin with.
Another trouble area are the switchpoints. Most manufacturers make theirs out of a piece of stamped or cast metal, and leave the ends blunt. You can carefully file these points sharper to eliminate the blunt end, and'or put a slight twist in the stock rail just ahead of the points to hide them from the wheel flanges. Either will help eliminate the wheels catching the points and causing a dearilment. When building my own, I can file a notch in the stock rail for the points to nestle into that has virtually eliminated point related derailmants.
One VERY important thing not touched on is the use of RP25 wheelsets. These were standard on Athearn and Roundhouse cars, but most of the train set quality cars did not have them. The metal wheels of to0day are also RP25. I have found that the conversion of all wheels, whether plastic or not, to RP25 is one of the biggest improvements you can make/ That, proper weight, and conversion to body mounted couplers where possible are the three things I willl do to any car I intend to run in regular service.
Overall these improvements have worked wonders on my railroad. Try them yourself and see the difference.
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Posted - June 16 2022 : 7:59:49 PM
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| Useful, thanks.
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