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 Posted - June 08 2017 : 4:34:19 PM
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quote:question if the author is still around, what brand paints do you use for these rebuilds?
Originally posted by rgcw5Â -Â June 01 2017Â :Â 8:53:55 PM
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I prefer Modelflex paints made by the Badger Airbrush Company for most of my projects; its easy to work with, drys with a shiny finish good for decalling, cleans up with water, and does not create toxic vapors. However Badger's color palate is not complete, if available I will fall back on Polyscale paints.
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Posted - June 08 2017 : 4:57:51 PM
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I still fall back on Polly Scale when I can, but I'm getting increasing use out of craft acrylics. (The kind sold at Micheals, Walmart, etc). Much cheaper and much larger bottles.
sim-al2
Also since they cut track maintaince the trains had huge trouble making over the railroad by the end
純那
yeah
They did a Rock Island volountarily
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Posted - June 09 2017 : 12:13:18 AM
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quote:I still fall back on Polly Scale when I can, but I'm getting increasing use out of craft acrylics. (The kind sold at Micheals, Walmart, etc). Much cheaper and much larger bottles.
Originally posted by Pokemonprime - June 08 2017 : 4:57:51 PM
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As long as you can mix your colors so that they match prototype paints this should be a good alternative.
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Posted - June 09 2017 : 09:41:27 AM
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Yeah, though, to be fair the railroads sometimes just grabbed "a red" or "a green". I know there's some debate over some of TruColor's paint samples, I believe their UP Armor Yellow and their Rock Island Red, specifically.
sim-al2
Also since they cut track maintaince the trains had huge trouble making over the railroad by the end
純那
yeah
They did a Rock Island volountarily
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Posted - June 09 2017 : 7:44:30 PM
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By the time you account for fading, different batches, etc., I think the prototype's colors are more or less approximate.
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Posted - June 09 2017 : 11:05:02 PM
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quote:By the time you account for fading, different batches, etc., I think the prototype's colors are more or less approximate.
Originally posted by scsshaggy - June 09 2017 : 7:44:30 PM
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True that! You also have to consider the lighting in your layout room, artificial light is now where near as bright as sun light so prototype paint colors will look too dark on your layout. A good example of this is Southern Pacific gray, models of SP units are always painted a lighter gray than prototype because true SP grey would look to dark indoors.
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Posted - September 18 2017 : 10:12:11 PM
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Have you modified other brands the same way? I have a bunch of various 50' plug doors in my collection from various manufacturers. And of course, two of them happen to be the ubiquitous green Tyco BN cars. :)
For example, I have a well-used Bachmann plug door from the early 90s which looks disgusting at the moment - it has yellowed and most of the original RI/The Rock decals have fallen off, along with the steps. So far I've only added body-mounted Kadees and a pair of Athearn trucks but the body really needs some work to bring it up to scratch. It's one of the earlier ones which has similar tooling to the Tyco version - the later Bachmann tooling (late 90s?) had finer detail and came with the plastic E-Z Mate knuckle couplers from the factory.
I haven't attempted repainting or weathering models before, but I might just need to get into this after seeing these results!
Edited by - Heihachi_73 on September 18 2017 10:17:14 PM
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Posted - September 21 2017 : 9:03:27 PM
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quote:Have you modified other brands the same way? I have a bunch of various 50' plug doors in my collection from various manufacturers. And of course, two of them happen to be the ubiquitous green Tyco BN cars. :)
For example, I have a well-used Bachmann plug door from the early 90s which looks disgusting at the moment - it has yellowed and most of the original RI/The Rock decals have fallen off, along with the steps. So far I've only added body-mounted Kadees and a pair of Athearn trucks but the body really needs some work to bring it up to scratch. It's one of the earlier ones which has similar tooling to the Tyco version - the later Bachmann tooling (late 90s?) had finer detail and came with the plastic E-Z Mate knuckle couplers from the factory.
I haven't attempted repainting or weathering models before, but I might just need to get into this after seeing these results!
Originally posted by Heihachi_73Â -Â September 18 2017Â :Â 10:12:11 PM
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To answer your question, yes I have modified cars made from other manufactures, however they were not among the cars in this particular rebuilding program. The techniques used for my Tyco pluggers can be applied to any manufacturer's equipment, you are only limited by you imagination!
If you do decide to do some rebuilding yourself, feel free to share your work in this thread! Be sure to include photos and description of your techniques. Good Luck!
PS: I will soon be adding another batch of cars to this rebuilding program, stay tuned for developments.
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Posted - September 23 2017 : 7:26:07 PM
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Its been a while, but rebuilding is back in style!!! Here is a preview of my latest rebuilds....
My new cars will feature Northern Pacific, Soo Line, and Santa Fe paint schemes!!!
Stay Tuned!
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Posted - September 30 2017 : 8:08:12 PM
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Here is my latest batch of rebuilds, almost ready to start painting....
Stay tuned for more developments!
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Posted - September 30 2017 : 8:58:23 PM
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| Always a pleasure to watch your builds.
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 Posted - September 30 2017 : 9:29:41 PM
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*steals a green one & puts on the old Burlington Northern & Santa Fe round logo on it* 
but seriously I DO like these rebuilds 
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Posted - September 30 2017 : 10:10:42 PM
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Nice work, Srenchin!! Those rebuilt boxcars look great. 
"Let your light so shine before men, that they may see your good works, and glorify your Father which is in Heaven." - Matthew 5:16
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Posted - October 02 2017 : 11:31:52 PM
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I found this short You Tube video about rebuilding a Tyco Plugger.
I am not in any way affiliated with this video but I felt it should be included in this thread....
Good work atjoe1972!!
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Edited by - Srenchin on October 04 2017 12:12:26 AM
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Posted - October 09 2017 : 10:01:32 PM
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It's always a good idea to give all rebuilds a test run before painting, pictured below is my latest test train...
One car had a truck with obstructed movement, all other cars ran well!!!
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Posted - October 10 2017 : 11:09:05 PM
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Time to prime...
Fourteen cars at once in true Rebuilding Program style!
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Posted - October 10 2017 : 11:16:00 PM
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In addition to my new boxcars, part of my current rebuilding project includes building Soo Line locomotives and matching caboose for my 2017 Trainfest train. (Soo Line is the theme railroad for Trainfest 2017)
Here are a few photos of my Soo Line equipment...
Note the missing upper headlight housing on the A unit on the right, this will be a model of Soo Line locomotive 2228A which was wreck damaged and lost her nose headlight in the rebuilding process.
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Edited by - Srenchin on October 10 2017 11:30:42 PM
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Posted - October 10 2017 : 11:16:12 PM
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Looking good Srenchin! Can't wait to see the final product!
"Let your light so shine before men, that they may see your good works, and glorify your Father which is in Heaven." - Matthew 5:16
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Posted - October 14 2017 : 8:33:50 PM
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Next step, Masking...
It's a tedious process that takes a lot of work, but if you do it right the models will emerge from the paint booth with near flawless paint jobs!
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Posted - October 14 2017 : 11:41:13 PM
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Looking forward to your repaints, especially that caboose!
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Posted - October 18 2017 : 2:43:00 PM
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Starting the decaling on my latest rebuilds, check out my latest project....
I love the super sized NP on these Northern Pacific Boxcars, they really jump out at you!
Stay tuned for more updates!
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Posted - October 26 2017 : 6:50:03 PM
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I have finished my latest batch or rebuilds, check them out....
Changes I made on these cars include replacing the plug door with a sliding door and converting the side sill from a fish belly contour to straight. The straight side sill allows more underbody detail to be visible when viewed from the side.
I love the huge "NP" letters and the big emblem on these cars, they will certainly stick out in any train!!!
Stay tuned for more cars!!!
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Edited by - Srenchin on October 27 2017 12:56:16 PM
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Posted - October 26 2017 : 6:56:57 PM
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Srenchin,
Very nice. You really put time and effort into this and it shows well.
Can we place custom orders?  I've always wanted to see one of the Tyco billboard covered hoppers customized for the two-tone Mountain Dew.
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Posted - October 26 2017 : 6:57:23 PM
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WOAH!!! That is amazing work! Excellent NP box cars.
"Let your light so shine before men, that they may see your good works, and glorify your Father which is in Heaven." - Matthew 5:16
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Posted - October 26 2017 : 7:40:12 PM
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| Always a pleasure to view your work Scott. Those box cars are fine.
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Posted - October 27 2017 : 11:41:53 AM
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As I mentioned before, the featured railroad at Trainfest this year is the Soo Line, so among my latest rebuilds are some Soo Line cars....
The prototypes of these models were welded PS 1 style cars so I had to shave off all the rivet detailing on the shells. Also note that the plug door was replaced by a 9 foot sliding door. If you are interested in how I made these models feel free to review some of my earlier how to posts in this thread since I used the same techniques on these cars as on past rebuilds.
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Posted - October 27 2017 : 2:26:13 PM
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quote:As I mentioned before, the featured railroad at Trainfest this year is the Soo Line, so among my latest rebuilds are some Soo Line cars....
The prototypes of these models were welded PS 1 style cars so I had to shave off all the rivet detailing on the shells. Also note that the plug door was replaced by a 9 foot sliding door. If you are interested in how I made these models feel free to review some of my earlier how to posts in this thread since I used the same techniques on these cars as on past rebuilds.
Originally posted by Srenchin - October 27 2017 : 11:41:53 AM
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Just beautiful, great job!
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Posted - October 27 2017 : 10:59:20 PM
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While not made from a Tyco Plugger, this caboose deserves to be counted in this thread. This car started life as a generic Bachmann Norfolk Southern crummy but after stripping, detailing, repainting, decaling, and weathering I was able to transform it into a Soo Line caboose...
Note the rotary beacon, axle generator, and radio antenna details!
Stay tuned for more rebuilds!
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Edited by - Srenchin on October 27 2017 11:03:38 PM
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Posted - October 28 2017 : 7:57:40 PM
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Here is another pair of rebuilds from my latest batch
These cars were pretty straight forward, the addition of sliding doors was the only significant modification. Safety appliance details, paint, decaling, and weathering rounded out these cars.
Stay tuned for more!!!!
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Edited by - Srenchin on October 28 2017 8:00:44 PM
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Posted - October 29 2017 : 12:20:56 AM
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quote:While not made from a Tyco Plugger, this caboose deserves to be counted in this thread. This car started life as a generic Bachmann Norfolk Southern crummy but after stripping, detailing, repainting, decaling, and weathering I was able to transform it into a Soo Line caboose...
Note the rotary beacon, axle generator, and radio antenna details!
Stay tuned for more rebuilds!
Originally posted by Srenchin - October 27 2017 : 10:59:20 PM
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I think I would of made the rotary beacon actually work
Oh one off you should do is a boxcar with the BnL logo from Wall-E with BNLX as the reporting marks
I know you wants realistic but we can't be serious all the time Right? hehe
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Posted - October 29 2017 : 1:23:07 PM
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quote: quote:While not made from a Tyco Plugger, this caboose deserves to be counted in this thread. This car started life as a generic Bachmann Norfolk Southern crummy but after stripping, detailing, repainting, decaling, and weathering I was able to transform it into a Soo Line caboose...
Note the rotary beacon, axle generator, and radio antenna details!
Stay tuned for more rebuilds!
Originally posted by Srenchin - October 27 2017 : 10:59:20 PM
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I think I would of made the rotary beacon actually work
Oh one off you should do is a boxcar with the BnL logo from Wall-E with BNLX as the reporting marks
I know you wants realistic but we can't be serious all the time Right? hehe
Originally posted by microbusss - October 29 2017 : 12:20:56 AM
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Whew! For a moment I was afraid that Microbusss was going to read me the riot act for repainting that Norfolk Southern caboose!
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Edited by - Srenchin on October 29 2017 1:24:50 PM
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Posted - October 29 2017 : 1:33:51 PM
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This pair of rebuilds features Soo Line's Colormark campaign, no true Soo Line train is complete without one of these!
One interesting thing about this paint scheme, I found it easier to paint the red doors before applying the light grey. One my first attempt at painting these cars I applied the light grey first and then masked the doors to paint them red, however even with careful masking I still had a lot of bleed trough. So I stripped the cars and painted the red first, just goes to show that sometimes the usual procedure isn't always the best!
Also not the extended draft gear boxes and other add-on details.
Stay tuned for more!
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Posted - October 30 2017 : 11:52:00 AM
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This pair of rebuilds are more basic, ubiquitous brown boxcars with sliding doors.
I have to admit that I like the block lettering!
Stay tuned for more!!!
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Edited by - Srenchin on October 30 2017 11:53:56 AM
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Posted - October 30 2017 : 12:55:33 PM
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Srenchin,
Thanks for your very detailed comments as you progress through the various stages of restoration/enhancement as I'm learning from what you do. Q about the decals. Did you create one large decal for the large and small text to each side of the door, or did you break it down into smaller, more manageable portions? Looking at what I assume is the decal paper in your post from October 18, I assume it is easier to apply several smaller decals than one large one.
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Posted - October 30 2017 : 3:46:41 PM
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I use commercially available decals for most of my projects, my favorite is Microscale. All decal manufacturers print their decals on sheets that are crammed with as much printed material that they can squeeze into a given sheet of decal paper. This being the case you need to cut out the decals you need from the decal sheet as you need them.
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Posted - October 30 2017 : 9:02:50 PM
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| Thanks for the information. Approximately $8 per sheet is a good deal 'cause you don't have to design the logo nor would you need a special laser printer to print the decals.
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Posted - October 31 2017 : 2:50:22 PM
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This is the last pair of cars from this batch of rebuilds...
These are my favorite cars of the bunch, note the Hydra Cushion draft gear details under the car. The other usual details round out these rebuilds.
Stay tuned for one more post on this batch!
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Edited by - Srenchin on October 31 2017 2:52:04 PM
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Posted - November 01 2017 : 10:54:59 AM
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And Last but certainly not least, this is the power I am going to use to pull my rebuild train at Trainfest this year...
This spiffy quartet will look nice at the point of 70 car rebuild train, I will try to get a video again!
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Posted - November 01 2017 : 3:08:26 PM
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WOAH! Those F-Units are REALLY nicely detailed and look so realistic! Awesome work again Srenchin.
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Posted - November 01 2017 : 3:40:57 PM
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| As long as those engineers don't get busted for not keeping their windshield clean.
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Posted - November 02 2017 : 11:35:39 PM
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quote:As long as those engineers don't get busted for not keeping their windshield clean.
Originally posted by Barry - November 01 2017 : 3:40:57 PM
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Cleaning bug splat from windshields is the roundhouse guy's job!
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Posted - November 05 2017 : 11:20:01 PM
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had to revisit this topic as I'm slowly rebuilding my railroad and have to say looking at all the before and afters, you'd have to be hard pressed to realize these cars started as Tyco!
just me Ray... and just because I have Tyco doesn't mean I am not a model railroader
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Posted - November 06 2017 : 11:27:10 PM
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Those of you who have seen my Trainfest 2016 Tyco Plugger Rebuild video may have noticed that some of my cars didn't make the train. Fact of the matter was that some of my rebuilds had to be side lined as "Bad Orders" due to tracking or other mechanical defects.
In preparation for Trainfest 2017 I have repaired and or rebuilt my Bad Order cars so they can make this years train. Pictured below are last years no shows....
The Chessie System car was the most interesting repair. I equipped this car with Walthers extended cushioned draft gear coupler pockets and apparently the weight of the 50 plus car train was just too much...
Yup, the stress was so great I ripped the guts right out of her.
The Walthers draft gear kit is designed to just be glued into place and I suspect for an average sized HO scale train the strength of a cemented connection would be sufficient. However with the train weights I am dealing with I clearly needed to fasten these components mechanically. I did this by pre-drilling holes through the draft gear pocket and underframe and then pressing heated metal pins through them....
As the pins cool, they become cemented in place forming a nice mechanical connection between the draft gear and the car body.
Another couple of bad orders were my L&N box cars. Upon further inspection I found that I neglected to trim the underframe rib detail that could prevent the trucks from swiveling properly....
This problem was easily fixed with a chisel blade...
The other cars had no visible problems that I could find upon visual inspection, further tests on my home layout also failed to pin point any problem. Fact of the matter is, the layout that my club uses at the train show is over 35 years old and it spends most of its time stored inside an uninsulated building. After that amount of time in such conditions, a certain amount of bench-work and track warpage is inevitable.
Now I am not saying that the track on the club layout is bad, it is not. However due to the age of the layout and its portable nature, the trackage on the layout has enough quirks that any cars that may be sensitive to uneven track will derail.
It just so happens that the one thing all the derailing cars had in common were their rebuilt Tyco frames....
My only hypothesis is that the slightly top heavy nature of my rebuilt Tyco frames was causing balancing problems for these cars. I therefor decided the best way to solve this problem was to change out the old Tyco frames for new Accurail replacements....
Once the new frames were installed on the shells, I tested out the cars on my layout and they all behaved normally....
Next stop, Trainfest 2017!!!
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Edited by - Srenchin on November 07 2017 7:18:43 PM
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Posted - November 07 2017 : 3:55:40 PM
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what color paint and what references are you using on the PC cars?
I'm planning to use ex PC/tyco boxcars for my BVRR and could use some ideas here
just me Ray... and just because I have Tyco doesn't mean I am not a model railroader
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Posted - November 07 2017 : 7:16:38 PM
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quote:what color paint and what references are you using on the PC cars?
I'm planning to use ex PC/tyco boxcars for my BVRR and could use some ideas here
Originally posted by rgcw5Â -Â November 07 2017Â :Â 3:55:40 PM
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I used Modelflex "PC jade green" paint which is made by the Badger Airbrush Company. For references I use a collection of books that I own plus the "Fallen Flag Railroad Photos" website...
http://www.rr-fallenflags.org/#r
I'll be interested in seeing your work!
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Posted - November 08 2017 : 7:12:29 PM
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Here is another reason why I like the Accurail frames, look at the photographs below and see if you can spot any differences. The top photo shows a Tyco frame and the bottom shows an Accurail frame, note the distance between the end stirrups and the outer most wheel sets....
Did you notice the truck spacing? The Tyco frame's body bolsters are about a scale foot closer to the center of the car, a concession made to accommodate the talgo style truck mounted couplers. The Accurail frame on the other hand has a more prototypical truck spacing.
The difference between the two photos may seem minor at first, but once you get used to seeing models with prototypical truck spacing suddenly Tyco pluggers with original frames seem strangely pigeon toed.
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Edited by - Srenchin on November 08 2017 10:07:37 PM
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Posted - November 09 2017 : 8:10:07 PM
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quote:
I used Modelflex "PC jade green" paint which is made by the Badger Airbrush Company. For references I use a collection of books that I own plus the "Fallen Flag Railroad Photos" website...
http://www.rr-fallenflags.org/#r
I'll be interested in seeing your work!
Originally posted by Srenchin - November 07 2017 : 7:16:38 PM
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so after some searching if FFRP all I found were sliding door versions, and unfortunately the only paint I could find was by Tamiya, which is close and a testors brand which is off (for the patch out) should be interesting to see...
just me Ray... and just because I have Tyco doesn't mean I am not a model railroader
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Posted - November 09 2017 : 11:37:41 PM
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quote: quote:
I used Modelflex "PC jade green" paint which is made by the Badger Airbrush Company. For references I use a collection of books that I own plus the "Fallen Flag Railroad Photos" website...
http://www.rr-fallenflags.org/#r
I'll be interested in seeing your work!
Originally posted by Srenchin - November 07 2017 : 7:16:38 PM
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so after some searching if FFRP all I found were sliding door versions, and unfortunately the only paint I could find was by Tamiya, which is close and a testors brand which is off (for the patch out) should be interesting to see...
Originally posted by rgcw5Â -Â November 09 2017Â :Â 8:10:07 PM
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Ok what we have here is a failure to communicate. First, here is a link to the PC Jade Green paint I use for sale at Walthers....
https://www.walthers.com/modelflex-paint-1-ounce-penn-central-green
You can order this paint on-line and they will ship it right to your door.
Second, all Tyco PC boxcars are 40 footers with sliding doors so why don't you like the sliding door pictures on FFRP? Something doesn't make sense here....
Proudly keeping Tyco Pluggers out of landfills since 2016
Edited by - Srenchin on November 09 2017 11:48:49 PM
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Posted - November 12 2017 : 7:02:43 PM
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honestly I've never had any luck ordering online, so I forget you can do that. I'm still stuck on the old I'f I want something, I go to my local LHS, (even ebay has gotten me so frustrated with shipping quotes, I'll wait on a swapmeet) sometimes I get lucky, sometimes I don't and I always look for good alternates to RR colors if I don't get lucky
as for the sliding door boxcars, yes I know Tyco made them only in 40 foot, I was just saying all the pics were 50 foot sliding doors and was wondering if the plug door PC was real or a believable concept.
just me Ray... and just because I have Tyco doesn't mean I am not a model railroader
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Posted - November 13 2017 : 7:06:27 PM
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Yes, the Penn Central had 50 foot plug door cars, here is one example....
http://www.rr-fallenflags.org/pc/pc165993akg.jpg
According to the October 1974 issue of "The Official Railway Equipment Register", Penn Central had 12 fifty foot plug door cars in their X39K class. These cars were numbered 165975 to 165999.
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